Port Charlotte 2010 MRC 01 Review

“The Peated Promise”

Whisky Review # 804

Country: Scotland

Region: Islay

Brand: Port Charlotte 2010 MRC: 01 - Bottled : 2018 - 8000 Bottles
Distilled at: Bruichladdich - Limited Edition

Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: NAS (Around 7 Years)

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 59.2%
Maturation: First-Fill Bourbon - and 2nd fill Bordeaux casks. 
Chill Filtration: No
Price Range: US$ 110-120 (March 2019)
Sample provided by: Mauricio from Brazil. Many Thanks!
Buying Advice: 😊Good Single Malt. P/Q ratio: 😒Quite expensive for its age!

Colour:

Dark Amber (Natural Colour)

Nose:

A Sweet and Medium-Dry combination of Red Wine, Red Fruit and Coastal Peat. It works quite well actually. Unfortunately, the Spirit is rather young and the high ABV is a bit cumbersome. The Malt for this Port Charlotte is peated at 40 ppm but it is nicely tamed by the Red Wine casks. I can only imagine how good this Whisky could have been if matured for 12-15 years. It's still good but a bit too Rough and Edgy to fully convince.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Toasted Barley, Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Red Wine, Red Berries like Blueberries & Raspberries, Wet Clay, Orange Flavoured Dark Chocolate and Roasted Coffee.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Vanilla, Lemon, Tar, Ashes, Soot, Iodine, Dark Cherries, Oak Char, Nuts,  Salted Fish/Shellfish/Bacon, Straw, Leather, Tobacco, Cinnamon and Mint.

Palate:

Mainly Sweet with a little Bitterness towards the end. The high ABV can't hide the relative Youth of the Spirit. Peat and Smoke are much more noticeable at this point.

Main Flavours:

Toasted Barley, Buttered Toast, Wet Peat, Cold Smoke, Hospital, Ashes, Salted Caramel, Red Berries, Red Wine, Orange, Charred Oak, Fish/Shellfish/Bacon on the BBQ, Nuts, Lemon-Grass and Pepper.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Vanilla, Honey, Coconut, Tar, Soot, Dark Cherries, Straw/Grass, Salted Nuts, Dried Herbs, Tobacco, Leather, Cinnamon, Cloves and Licorice.

Finish:

Sweet, Ashy and Dry. Peat and Smoke are more noticeable now. I find Toasted Barley, slightly Burnt Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Honey, Sweet Peat, Hospital, Ashes, Charred Oak, Banana, Dark Red Fruit, Red Wine, Salted Fish/Bacon, Nuts, Espresso, Lemon-Grass, Citrus Fruit, Pepper, Cloves, Leather, Licorice, Herbal Tea, Tobacco and Menthol.

Drinking Advice:

I added a little Water and on the Nose the rather Sharp Alcohol retreats. The Peat comes more to the forefront now while the Fruit is less intense. The Palate becomes a little more Creamy but the Finish looses intensity. As usual, this is a personal matter but a few added drops can't hurt in my opinion.

Rating: 86.5 

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 22 - Finish: 21.5 - Overall: 21.5 

Drinking Experience:

Good

Conclusion:

Bruichladdich was founded in 1881 by William Robertson and William and James Greenless. In 2003 the distillery was bought by Burn Stewart Distilleries, part of Distell Int. Ltd. The distillery and surroundings really needed investments as we witnessed during our visits in 2014 and 2017. And finally this is really going to happen. Some warehouses will be demolished and new ones will be constructed closer to the sea. All other buildings will be refurbished and a much needed new Visitor Centre will be created. All this will probably be ready by 2022.

The distillery produces over 2 million litres per year of which 35% is peated. The core range includes the 12, 18, 25 and 40 Years as well as the peated Toiteach A Dha and Stiuireadair.

The Port Charlotte I'm reviewing today was released in 2018. It is made with 100% Scottish Barley from the Invernesshire region. The Spirit matured for 50% in First-Fill Bourbons casks and 50% Second Fill French Red Wine casks that were subsequently married and finished for a year in French Red Wine casks from the Bordeaux. In the old days it was usual to ship French Wine in casks to the UK to be bottled there. These casks were then bought by the Whisky industry to mature their Spirit. This lasted until cheaper Bourbon casks became available. The MRC 01 seeks to revive this relationship between Scotland and France.

The Port Charlotte 2010 MRC 01 is a good Single Malt but it could have been a great one. How? The maturation time should be increased to 12-15 Years. That would automatically bring the ABV to a more suitable level. The Red Wine Finish could be a bit longer and/or you could introduce a number of First-Fill Red Wine casks to the maturation. As so often is the case, the idea behind the MRC 01 is good but it simply does not get enough time to truly develop its potential. It's still a good Single Malt but it could have been so much more!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                    March 1, 2019

Mortlach 16 Years Distiller's Dram Review - Mortlach 16 Years Flora & Fauna Review

“The Battle Of The Mortlachs”

Whisky Review # 802

Country: Scotland

Region: Speyside

Brand: Mortlach Distiller's Dram

Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: 16 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 43.4%
Maturation: A Mix of First-Fill and Refill Sherry Wood
Chill Filtration: No
Price Range: Around US$ 90 (February 2019)
Sample provided by: Mauricio from Brazil. Many Thanks!
Buying Advice: 😃Good Modern Sherried Malt. P/Q ratio: 😔Borderline!

Colour:

Oloroso Sherry (Artificially Coloured)

Nose:

Nice Clean Sherry without a trace of Sulphur. Sweet, Waxy and Fruity. Alcohol and Oak are noticeable. There is a little bit of the Mortlach Meatiness but it is well hidden amongst the other Aromas. The Nose is quite pleasant although slightly "Middle of the Road".

Main Aromas:

Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Demerara Sugar, Dried Fruit like Raisins, Plums & Figs, Baked Apple, Dusty Oak, Banana, Orange, Cinnamon and Ginger.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Toffee, Caramel, Heather-Honey, Dark Berries/Cherries, Almond Nougat, Dusty Leather Upholstery, Forrest Floor, Milk Chocolate, Milk/Cheese, Nutmeg, Cloves, Mint and mere hints of Smoke and Tobacco.

Palate:

Quite Oily and just a wee little bit on the Thin side. This Mortlach Spirit can very easily handle an ABV of 46-48%. Still, it's a nicely matured Malt with a balanced Sherry influence. A little bit more of Mortlach Meat in the background. On the Palate, the 16 Years is Bitter-Sweet with some Sour elements. A little less added Caramel wouldn't hurt as well!

Main Flavours:

Malted Cereals, Demerara Sugar, Caramel, Dried Fruit like Raisins and Plums, Dark Red Fruit, Apple, Seville Orange, Oak Char, Dirty Earth, Cinnamon, Mint, Pepper, Cloves and Cocoa Powder.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Heather-Honey, Toffee, Vanilla, Gooseberries, Banana, Pear, Milk/Cheese, Nuts, Nutmeg, Tobacco, Dusty Leather and Varnish.

Finish:

Middle-Long, Bitter-Sweet & slightly Mineral towards the Dry end. I find Malted Cereals, Demerara Sugar, Dried Fruit (Raisins, Plums & Dark Berries), Dusty Track, Apple, Pear, Seville Orange, Oak Char, Cocoa Powder, After Eight Chocolate, Varnish, Pepper, Cloves, Nutmeg, Mint, Caffe-Latte, Pipe Tobacco &  Licorice.

Drinking Advice:

I added a little Water and the Nose becomes very Fruity indeed. The Finish gets extra Spice. In this case I enjoyed the Spirit both with- and without Water so be sure to try it out both ways.

Rating: 86

Nose: 22 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5

Drinking Experience:

Good

Conclusion:

Mortlach was founded in 1823 by James Findlater and is located in Dufftown, Keith, Banffshire. It is owned by Diageo. The distillery has a cult status mainly because of the 16 Years Flora Fauna that I am reviewing today. This expression was discontinued in 2014 however and replaced by a new range that consisted of the Rare Old, Special Strength, 18 Years and 25 years. All four were mainly matured in Ex-Bourbon Barrels and were launched in 50 cl bottles at rather high prices. This move was not appreciated by the fans and in 2018 Diageo launched a new core range that consists of the 12 Year old Wee Witchie, the 16 Year old Distiller's Dram I am reviewing today and the 20 Year old Cowie's Blue Seal. I have to give credit to Diageo for listening to their clients although I imagine that decreasing Mortlach sales were the decisive factor to review the core range.

I did not taste any of the former core range expressions that were launched in 2014 and discontinued in 2018. I do feel however that this 16 Years Distiller's Dram will be quite successful. And it will probably please both Mortlach fans and new customers as it is much cleaner and more accessible than the old Mortlachs while keeping a good part of the Distillery character. The Cask Management is good and the Sherry casks add to the Spirit without dominating it. In short, a "Modern" Mortlach and one of the better new Single Malts I've tasted recently. It's still a bit expensive though. I'm curious to see how it compares to the old Warhorse, the 16 Years Flora & Fauna!

Jan van den Ende                                                                February 25, 2019

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Whisky Review # 803

Country: Scotland

Region: Speyside

Brand: Mortlach Flora & Fauna - Discontinued

Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: 16 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 43%
Maturation: Mixture of First-Fill and Refill American and European Sherry Wood
Chill Filtration: No
Price Range: US$ 240-260 (February 2019)
Sample provided by: Mauricio from Brazil. Many Thanks!
Buying Advice: 😀Nice Old Style Mortlach. Current P/Q ratio: 👎Discontinued!

Colour:

Mahogany/Brown (Artificially Coloured)

Nose:

Strong Sherry Cask influence. It's a bit Dusty and Old-Fashioned but I don't get any Sulphur. Lots of Dried Fruit, Nuts, Orange and Spices. The Alcohol is there so you need to Nose your way around that. Certainly more Meaty than the new 16 Years reviewed above. Still, I like both noses as they are.

Main Aromas:

Malted Barley, Brown Sugar, Caramel, Dried Fruit like Raisins, Sultanas, Apricot, Apple and Banana, Orange, Blueberry Muffins, Nuts, Heather-Honey, Grass, Dusty Charred Oak, Wax, Fresh Herbs, Pepper, Cinnamon and Mint.   

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Buttered Toast, Toffee, Vanilla, Tangerine, Lemon, Pineapple, Floral Soap, Tea, Nutmeg, Cloves, Ginger, Tobacco and hints of Rubber and Varnish.

Palate:

Nice combination of Sweet, Bitter and Sour. Once again, this Spirit deserves an ABV of 46-48%. It's a little more Dirty, Meaty and less polished than the new 16 Years and the Sherry cask influence is stronger but it's good in its own right.

Main Flavours:

Malted Barley, Brown Sugar, Dark Fruit like Cherries, Plums and Sultanas, Nuts,  Orange, Wet Stone, Dusty Track, Charred Oak, Dark Chocolate, Pepper, Clove and Cinnamon.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Heather-Honey, Apple, Raisins, Tangerine, Lemon Ice Tea, Grass, Mint and Aniseed.

Finish:

Middle-Long and Medium-Dry. Mainly Sweet with a light Bitterness towards the end. I find slightly Dirty Sherry, Toasted Malt, Caramel, Vanilla, Brown Sugar, Treacle, Dark Red Fruit like Cherries, Stewed Apple, Sultanas, Walnuts, Orange, Lemon Ice Tea, Caffe Latte, Charred Oak, Brandy, Pepper, Cloves, Cinnamon, Tobacco, Dark Chocolate, Mint and Aniseed.

Drinking Advice:

The Flora and Fauna 16 Years does not need added Water.

Rating: 85.5

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5

Drinking Experience:

Good

Conclusion:

That was an enjoyable Mortlach session! Both expressions are different but good in their own rights. The Flora & Fauna is more old fashioned Mortlach. It's a bit Dirty and Dusty and also more Meaty. The new Distiller's Dram is more Modern, polished and accessible. The Flora & Fauna has got more Distillery character but that might not be to every body's liking. The new 16 Years maintained sufficient distillery character but makes Mortlach more accessible. Cult Vs Mainstream? That's perhaps a bit too strong but I think you got the picture. The good news is that both Mortlachs are very enjoyable Single Malts. I'm hard pressed to name a favourite but in the end I go with the new Distiller's dram. And that's quite remarkable as I am usually rather conservative with regards to Whisky. That's a real compliment to Diageo! I do not always share their strategy but in this case they got it right. Mortlach is dead! Long live Mortlach!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                February 25, 2019

 

Laphroaig Four Oak Review

“Laphroaig Water”

Whisky Review # 801

Country: Scotland

Region: Islay

Brand: Laphroaig Four Oak

Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: NAS

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 40%
Maturation: Bourbon, Quarter, Virgin American Oak, European Oak Hogsheads
Chill Filtration: Yes
Price Range: US$ 55-75 (February 2019)
Buying Advice: 😡Come On Laphroaig, you can do much better! P/Q ratio: 👎

Colour:

Golden Straw (Artificially Coloured)

Nose:

Young, Light, Sour and Dusty. Some of the famous Laphroaig Aromas are there but in a Watered-Down form. Re-Fill Wood and New Oak are noticeable and so is the Alcohol. The Nose is not really bad but it kinda smells like work in progress.

Main Aromas:

Toasted Cereals, Slightly Burnt Toast, Dirty Peat, Cold Smoke, Caramel, Lemon Ice Tea, Grass, Green Apple, Unripe Banana, Wood Pellets, Smoked Fish, Floral Soap, Salt and Espresso.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Vanilla, Iodine, Soot, Ashes, Tar, Plastic, Rubber, Gas Station, Cheese, Mineral notes, Bounty Candy Bars and a hint of Sweaty Feet.

Palate:

Young and Thin. A mix of Sugary Sweet and Sour notes. Lots of Alcohol. Again this feeling of Unfinished Business.

Main Flavours:

Peated Grist, Dirty Peat, Cold Smoke, Salted Caramel, Floral Perfume, Smoked Fish and Shellfish, Green Apple, Pear, Green Banana, Lemon, Licorice, Pepper & Nutmeg.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Toasted Nuts, Vanilla, Soot, Ashes, Tar, Plastic, Rubber, Iron and Espresso.

Finish:

Middle-Long and very Thin. A mixture of Sugary Sweet and Sour with a bit of Bitterness that develops with time. Medium Dry. I find Peated Grist, Salted Caramel, Dirty Peat, Cold Smoke, Soot, Ashes, Brine, Iodine, Floral Soap, Lemon, Grapefruit, Smoked Fish & Shellfish, Vanilla, Espresso, Licorice, Pepper, Nutmeg and Casted Iron. Clearly a very young Islay Malt. The Alcohol is still noticeable.

Drinking Advice:

Added Water completely kills this Four Oak. It's already Thin enough as it is.

Rating: 78

Nose: 20 - Taste: 19.5 - Finish: 19 - Overall: 19.5

Drinking Experience Neat:

Okay

Drinking Experience on the Rocks:

Okay

Conclusion:

Laphroaig is located a few miles outside Port Ellen on the island of Islay and was founded in 1815 by Alexander and Donald Johnston. It was bought by Beam Suntory in 2014. Since, the distillery has launched a number of NAS Whiskies that received mixed critics. I find this a pity as I used to consider Laphroaig one of my favourite distilleries. The 10, the discontinued 18 and the old 15 Years are some of my all time favourites. I also love to visit the place and the people. I really hope Laphroaig is not steering too much towards mainstream Whisky but at the moment it kinda looks that way.

The Four Oak was launched in 2017, initially for Travel Retail only. It is a vatting of young Laphroaig Spirit that matured in Ex-Bourbon barrels, Quarter Casks, Virgin American Oak barrels and European Oak hogsheads.

Whisky derives from the old Scottish Gaelic word Uisge-Beatha, Water of Life. It seems to me that Laphroaig takes this a bit too literally with this Four Oak. You use Water for making Whisky but it should not taste as such! Laphroaig used to be a Single Malt that you either liked or hated. With Single Malts like the Four Oak that's not the case anymore. This is overpriced young Islay malt that should probably convince newbies that Peated Whisky is not something you should be afraid of. I know there's a shortage of aged Spirit and I know there's a shortage of good and affordable casks. But I also know that you can't (yet) replace sufficient maturation by New Wood and Smaller Casks.  The Four Oak is a good example of that. It smells and tastes like a rush job. I don't think that Laphroaig is doing itself and the market a favour by releasing Single Malts like this. This is not the way to go. Laphroaig should not be a whisky that's kinda Peaty, kinda Light, kinda Watery and kinda okay.
  
Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                 February 8, 2019

Glenburgie 1997 (Douglas Laing) Review - Tormore 2004 (Gordon & MacPhail) Review - Tamdhu 1987 (Mo Or) Review

“Speyside Special # 5” 

Most of you know that I mainly use samples and miniatures when preparing my Reviews. At the request of many of my readers I give preference to more recent expressions. As a result, my backlog of older samples has increased quite a bit. To do justice to those samples I will review them in the form of Specials. These specials will deal with a specific region like today or with specific distilleries, bottlers or countries. These reviews will concentrate on the Whisky and won't touch too much details about distilleries, maturation etc. I do hope you will like these Specials just as much as my regular reviews and I look forward to your reactions and suggestions. In this special I will review three random Speyside Single Malts. Enjoy!

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Whisky Review # 797

Country: Scotland

Region: Speyside

Brand: Glenburgie - Speyside Edition Nr. 4 - Especially bottled for Germany
Bottled by: Douglas Laing - The Old Malt Cask Series in April 2013 - 708 bottles

Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: 15 Years - Distilled June 1997

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 50%
Maturation: Refill Sherry Butt
Chill Filtration: No
Average Price: US$ 65 (January 2019)
Buying Advice:😀Pleasant Easy-Going Speyside Malt with a good P/Q ratio 👍.

Colour:

Old Gold (Natural Colour)

Nose:

Sweet and a little Meaty and Dusty. A few Sour notes as well. The Sherry Cask influence is clear. Please give this Glenburgie enough time in the glass before Nosing as the Alcohol is quite present. I find a little bit of Sulphur as well but it stays within acceptable limits. The Nose is okay but nothing out of the ordinary.

Main Aromas:

Toasted Cereals, lightly Burnt Buttered Toast, Nuts, Dried Fruit like Sultanas & Plums, Caramel, Straw and Grass, Apple, Pear, Orange, Pineapple, Dried Herbs, Dusty Earth, Oak, Pepper, Mint and Cloves.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Vanilla, Toffee, Heather Honey, Wax, Red Grapes, Red Berries, Grapefruit, Wet Rocks/Sand, Cinnamon and a twist of Lemon.

Palate:

Bitter Sweet, Malty and Fruity. A few Sour notes. Watch out because it goes down dangerously easy!

Main Flavours:

Toasted and Malted Barley, Butterscotch, Caramel, Straw and Grass, Apple, Pear, Orange, Pineapple, Dried Herbs, Pepper, Ginger and Cardamom.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Buttered Toast, Honey, Strawberries, Grapes, Lemon, Passion Fruit, Nectarine, Lemon, Nuts, Oak, Fruit-Flavoured Tea, Cloves, Cinnamon, Licorice & Nutmeg.

Finish:

Middle-Long. Bitter-Sweet with a few Sour notes. Quite Fruity. The Oak and Oak Spices are more noticeable towards the Dry end. A little bit of Alcohol remains present. I find Toasted and Malted Cereals, Butterscotch, Vanilla, Straw/Grass,  Apple, Pear, Fresh Strawberries, Orange, Grapefruit, Pineapple, Wax, Dusty Track, Oak, Coconut, Pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg, Cardamom, Cinnamon, Menthol and Licorice.

Drinking Advice:

I added a few drops of Water and the Alcohol retreats on the Nose. But you will loose a bit of density at the same time. Palate and Finish do not change a lot. As usual adding Water is a personal decision. I prefer it neat but this Glenburgie easily accepts a few drops.

Rating: 85

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5

Drinking Experience:

Good

Conclusion:

The Glenburgie distillery was founded in 1810 by William Paul, initially under the name Kilnflat, It closed in 1870 & reopened as Glenburgie in 1878. Since 2005 the distillery is owned by Chivas Regal (Pernod Ricard). Glenburgie is one of the three main Malt components of the Ballantine's Blend. The other two being Miltonduff and Glentauchers. The only current official Single Malt is the 15 year old. Production amounts to around 4.2 litres per year.

You can't go wrong with this Glenburgie. It's a Fruity and pleasant Speyside Malt that would be a perfect day-to-day dram if you like this type of Whisky. There's nothing really special about it but there's nothing wrong as well. Just easy-going and relaxing. The P/Q ratio is correct and I certainly recommend this Malt.

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Whisky Review # 798

Country: Scotland

Region: Speyside

Brand: Tormore 2004 - Distilled on 14-06-2004
Bottled By: Gordon & MacPhail, Elgin on 04/05/2016

Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: 11/12 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 61.2% (Cask Strength)
Maturation: First Fill Ex-Bourbon Barrels - Casks 895-898
Chill-Filtration: No
Price Range: US$ 55-75 (January 2019)
Buying Advice: 😕Unbalanced. Too high ABV. P/Q Ratio: 👎

Colour:

Light Golden/Pale Straw (Natural Colour)

Nose:

Sweet, Clean and Malty. Not bad bud a bit plain and unexciting. The Alcohol is quite noticeable as could be expected given the very high ABV.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Malted Barley, Buttered Toast, Vanilla, Caramel, Straw/Grass, Nectarine, Banana, Pear, Bounty Candy Bars, Dried Herbs, Cinnamon and Mint.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Heather-Honey, Butterscotch, Toffee, Rose Water, Milk Chocolate, Charred Oak, Apple, Lemon, Gooseberry and Dusty Track.

Palate:

The Alcohol is very strong and it's quite difficult to find your way around it. This Malt definitively needs added Water. The Palate is Sweet, Tannic and Fruity and you will find lots of Oak and Wood Spice.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Toasted Barley, Vanilla, Straw, Green Apple, Pear, Banana, Gooseberry, Oak, Pepper, Cinnamon, Ginger, Menthol, Mint and Cardamom.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Heather Honey, Brown Sugar, Lemon, Grapefruit, Raspberry, Marzipan & Milk Chocolate.

Finish:

Middle-Long, Tannic and Bitter-Sweet. A few Sour notes as well. Increasingly Bitter towards the Medium-Dry end. Aggressive Alcohol. I find Sweet Barley, Vanilla, Herbal Cough Syrup, Straw, Banana, Pear, Oak, Lemon Grass, Pepper, Cinnamon, Menthol, Mint and Milk Chocolate.

Drinking Advice:

Adding a few drops of Water is a must in this case and you won't hear me say that a lot! The ABV of 61.2% is simply too high for this relatively Young Spirit. The added Water does not significantly change the overall profile but it's just a little easier to drink it this way.

Rating: 80

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 20 - Finish: 19.5 - Overall: 20

Drinking Experience:

Okay

Conclusion:

The Tormore distillery was founded in 1958 in Grantown on Spey by Schendley Int. who needed a Single Malt for their Long John Blend. Since 2005 it is owned by Chivas Regal (Pernod Ricard). Most of its production is destined for Blends like Long John, Ballantine's and Cream of the Barley. The two official Single Malts are the 14 & 16 Years. Production amounts to around 4.8 million litres per year.

I'm usually a big fan of Gordon & MacPhail but in my opinion they have got this one wrong. I love Cask Strength Whiskies but this Tormore Spirit is simply too Young and, well delicate, to accept such a high ABV. As a result I can't find any balance here. I can pick up individual Aromas and Flavours but the sum of them is not coherent. It just does not seem to go anywhere. It's not a cheap Single Malt as well and given the above I would not recommend it.

 

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Whisky Review # 799

Country: Scotland

Region: Speyside

Brand: Tamdhu 1987 (Release # 17) - Distilled 02/07/87
Bottled By: Mo Or (The Whisky Talker) on 02/12/2010

Type: Single Malt Single Cask Whisky - Cask # 3649 - 656 Bottles
Age: 23 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46%
Maturation: Oloroso Sherry Butt
Chill Filtration: No
Price Range: Around US$ 140 for a 50 cl Bottle (January 2019)- Hard to Find!
Buying Advice: 😀Nice Sherried Speysider. Should have been bottled at CS.

Colour:

Dark Amber with Shades of Orange (Natural Colour)

Nose:

Sweet, Mature and Complex. Clear Sherry Cask influence. Lots of Dried Fruit, Nuts and Dark Chocolate. The Alcohol is nicely integrated. The Oak is there as well of course and it's a bit Dusty but it's just part of the Aroma profile and does not dominate. Nice!

Main Aromas:

Toasted Barley, Buttered Toast, Vanilla, Dried Fruit (Apricot, Raisins, Dates), Mixed Nuts, Orange Marmalade, Dark Chocolate, Dried Herbs, Nutmeg, Ginger and Cinnamon.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Heather-Honey, Butterscotch, Straw, Red Apples, Dusty Oak, Dry Earth, Mint, Leather, Tobacco, Licorice and Espresso.

Palate:

A little on the Thin side which comes unexpectedly after the fine Nose. On the Palate this Tamdhu is Medium Sweet, quite heavy on the Sherry but with a few Herbal, Bitter and Sour notes for balance. Dry towards the end.

Main Flavours:

Toasted Barley, slightly Burnt Toast, Vanilla, Dried Fruit like Raisins, Apricots and Dates, Orange Marmalade, Dark Chocolate, Mixed Nuts, Espresso, Pepper, Ginger and Mint.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Heather-Honey, Caramel, Toffee, Treacle, Straw, Dusty Oak, Dry Earth,  Red Apples, Fruitcake and Lemon.
  
Finish:

Middle-Long, Dry and a little Thin. Mostly Sweet but with a few Bitter, Herbal and Oaky notes as well for balance. I didn't notice it on the Nose but Palate and Finish clearly show that this Tamdhu should have been bottled at Cask Strength. I find Toasted Barley, slightly Burnt Toast, Dried Fruit like Apricots and Raisins, Orange Marmalade, Honey, Dark Chocolate, Mixed Nuts, Espresso, Dusty Oak, Dry Earth, Tobacco, Pepper, Menthol and Aniseed.

Drinking Advice:

On account of the small sample, I only tasted this Tamdhu Neat. It didn't feel like it on the Nose but Palate and Finish clearly show that this Tamdhu should have been bottled at Cask Strength.

Rating: 86.5

Nose: 22.5 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5

Drinking Experience:

Good.

Conclusion:

The Tamdhu distillery was founded in 1896 by a group of Blend producers lead by William Grant. Ian MacLeod Distillers bought Tamdhu in 2011 from Edrington and it currently produces around 4 million litres per year. Tamdhu is used in Blends like Cutty Sark, J&B and the Famous Grouse but more and more it also produces Single Malt whiskies. The core range includes the 10,12 and 15 Years.

This Tamdhu is a nice Sherried Speysider but I do think that Mo Or should have bottled it at Cask Strength. As it is, Palate and Finish are a bit on the Thin side and slightly disappoint after the very nice and full Nose. A 23 Year old Whisky can't be cheap of course but at Cask Strength the P/Q ratio would have been in order even considering it would have been a bit more expensive. Since it was bottled at 46%, I find the price tag a bit hefty though.

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                 January 29, 2019

Bladnoch Samsara Review - Bladnoch Adela 15 Years Review - Bladnoch 1990/2016 (Sansibar) Review

“Bladnoch Special” 

Most of you know that I mainly use samples and miniatures when preparing my Reviews. At the request of many of my readers I give preference to more recent expressions. As a result, my backlog of older samples has increased quite a bit. To do justice to those samples I will review them in the form of Specials. These specials will deal with a specific distillery like today or with specific bottlers, countries or regions. These reviews will concentrate on the Whisky and won't touch too much details about distilleries, maturation etc. I do hope you will like these Specials just as much as my regular reviews and I look forward to your reactions and suggestions. In this special I will review three random Bladnoch Single Malts. Enjoy!

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Whisky Review # 793

Country: Scotland

Region: Lowlands

Brand: Bladnoch Samsara

Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: NAS ( Said to be Minimum 8 years - Some Older Malts are in the mix)

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46.7%
Maturation: A Blend of Ex-Bourbon and Ex-Californian Red Wine Casks
Chill Filtration: No
Average Price: US$ 90 (January 2019)
Buying Advice: 😒 Unpleasant off-Notes caused by Wine casks. P/Q ratio: 👎

Colour:

Yellow Gold (Natural Colour)

Nose:

Please be sure to give this Bladnoch enough time in the glass before Nosing as the initial Aromas are not very pleasing. It's almost like Sweaty old Socks that are covered by a fresh layer of Vomit. With time these Aromas subside but they remain present. And so is the Alcohol by the way. Once you are over the first shock you will notice that the Samsara is actually quite Fruity and combines Sweet and Sour Aromas. The Off-Notes are really a pity and greatly affect the score.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Vanilla, Grapes, Red Apple, Orange, Grapefruit, Grass & Straw, Slivovitz and Boiled Sweets.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Toffee, Brown Sugar, Caramel, Cherry-Flavoured Cough Syrup, Apple Vinegar, Raisins, Cinnamon and Dairy.

(Picture Credit: Whisky.com)

Palate:

Young and a little Thin despite the ever present Alcohol. A mix of Bitter-Sweet, Sour and Musty notes. Quite Dry actually.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Barley, Vanilla, Boiled Sweets, Cherry-Flavoured Cough Syrup, Orange, Musty Oak, Red Grapes and Wine, Strawberry Jam, Cheap Sugary Chocolate, Cinnamon and Pepper.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Toffee, Salted Caramel, Floral Soap, Slivovitz, Straw/Grass, Cassis, Raisins, Red Apple, Pear and Cloves.

Finish:

Middle-Long, Bitter-Sweet, Sour and quite Harsh and Edgy. Quite dry towards the end. The Finish does not invite you to take another sip I'm afraid. I find  Salted Caramel, Red Grapes and Wine, Pear, Musty Oak, Strong Medicinal Tea, Cough Syrup, Licorice, Herbal Liqueur, Alcohol, Cocoa Powder, Cinnamon, Pepper and Cloves.

Drinking Advice:

I added a few drops of Water and on the Nose the Off-Notes get weaker. I also get more Malt, Slivovitz (Plum Liqueur) and an artificial Peach Aroma. Palate and Finish do not benefit from added Water.

Rating: 72

Nose: 19 - Taste: 18 - Finish: 17 - Overall: 18

Drinking Experience:

Below average on account of the off-notes.

Conclusion:

Bladnoch was founded in 1817 by Thomas and John McClelland. Over the years the ownership of the distillery changed many times and on many occasions the distillery was closed temporarily until it was finally liquidated in 2015. David Prior bought it in 2015 and brought life back to Bladnoch. Production restarted  in 2017 and the estimated production this year will be around 400.000 lt.

The Samara is the first of three new Bladnoch expressions that were released in 2016 to celebrate the reopening of this distillery under new owner David Prior. The other two are Adela and Talia. Samsara means Rebirth and that's quite appropriate. The Samara is made by blending Bladnoch Spirit matured in First-Fill Bourbon Casks and First Fill Californian Red Wine casks. Bladnoch is made with locally produced Barley. The Water is sourced from the river Bladnoch.

This is only my fourth Bladnoch and the first released by its new owner. I'm sorry to say though I'm not at all impressed by the Samara despite the very nice presentation and bottle. I'm not a big fan of Red Wine cask maturation and it certainly does not work this time round. The off-notes are most certainly caused by those casks. A pity as the Bladnoch Spirit appears to be quite Fruity by itself. It just needs time and a good cask! One of the frequent problems with Bladnoch is the presence of Alcohol. That's more difficult to explain as I find it in both young and old whiskies produced at this distillery. A bit of a mystery! The Samara is quite expensive and the P/Q ratio is negative. I can't recommend this Bladnoch.

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Whisky Review # 794

Country: Scotland

Region: Lowlands

Brand: Bladnoch Adela

Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: 15 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46.7%
Maturation: Oloroso Sherry Casks (Both American and European Oak)
Chill-Filtration: No
Price Range: US$ 105-130 (January 2019)
Buying Advice: 😴A plain Sherried Malt. P/Q ratio: 👎Totally overpriced

Colour:

Golden Copper (Natural Colour)

Nose:

This smells somewhat similar to the Samsara but I'm happy to report that the Off-Notes are much less aggressive. The Sweaty Socks are still there though. I also pick up a little Sulphur. As usual with Bladnoch, the Alcohol is very present. On the Nose, the Adela is mainly Sweet and Medium-Dry with lots of Dried Fruit, Nuts & Oranges.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Brown Sugar, Vanilla, Dried Fruit like Sultanas, Raisins and Apricots, Mixed Nuts, Boiled Sweets, Orange, Milk Chocolate, Apple Vinegar, Strawberry Yogurt and Coffee Beans.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Toffee, Floral Perfume, Honey, Cherry-Flavoured Candies, Dried Herbs, Lemon, Pear, Nectarine and Cinnamon.

Palate:

Bitter-Sweet, Herbal, Medium-Dry and a little Edgy. That damned Alcohol again! The Sherry influence is clear and the proper Cask is more noticeable by now. The main drivers like Dried Fruit, Nuts and Dark Chocolate basically follow the Nose.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Dried Fruit like Raisins, Sultanas and Apricots, Mixed Nuts with Walnuts in the lead, Strawberry Jam, Dark Chocolate, Strong Espresso, Pepper, Nutmeg, Cloves, Menthol and Licorice.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Vanilla, Floral Perfume, Green Apples, Blackcurrants, Dried Herbs, Musty Oak, Dirty Track, Grapefruit Juice and Tobacco.

Finish:

Middle-Long and Bitter-Sweet. Dry towards the end. I find Sweet Barley, most of the Sherry Cask notes I also found on the Nose like the Dried Fruits and the Nuts, Dark Espresso, Cocoa Powder, Cherry-Flavoured Cough Pastilles, Musty Oak, Blackcurrants, Green Apple, Pepper, Nutmeg, Licorice, Menthol, Freshly Printed Newspapers and a light Metallic note.

Drinking Advice:

I added a few drops of Water. The Nose becomes very Perfumy and strangely enough the Alcohol appears to be even more present. Palate and Finish become rather dull and boring. Better sip the Adela neat.

Rating: 81.5

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 20.5 - Finish: 20 - Overall: 20.5

Drinking Experience:

Okay/Good.

Conclusion:

The Adela is the second of three new Bladnoch expressions that were released in 2016 to celebrate the reopening of this distillery under new owner David Prior. The other two are Samsara & Talia. The Adela matures in Oloroso casks, some of them being First-Fill.

The Adela is certainly a step up when compared to the Samsara. But its P/Q ratio is totally out of line. Over a 100 bucks for a plain, slightly dull Sherried Lowland Single Malt with a few Off-Notes. I understand that the new owners are in need of cash but I don't think this is the best way forward for Bladnoch as potential new clients will be turned off by the high prices and lack luster profile of these new expressions. Despite the attractive packaging and presentation! I hope the last Indie Bladnoch can save the day! 

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Whisky Review # 795

Country: Scotland

Region: Lowlands

Brand: Bladnoch 1990
Bottled By: Sansibar - Spirit Shops Selection - Chinese Theater Mask Label

Type: Single Malt Single Cask Whisky - Cask #: Unknown - Bottles: 177
Age: 26 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 47.2% (Cask Strength)
Maturation: Sherry Cask
Chill Filtration: No
Price Range: Around US$ 250 (January 2019)
Buying Advice: 😋Lovely Bladnoch. Expensive but worth the price!

Colour:

Golden (Natural Colour)

Nose:

Very Fruity and Fresh for a 26 Year old Single Malt. No Off-Notes here! A little Sulphur perhaps but nothing serious. Good Cask. Not too active. The Oak is not too dominant on the Nose and lets the Fruit shine. It wouldn't be a Bladnoch though if you couldn't notice the Alcohol! Be sure to give it enough time in the glass before Nosing.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Lots of Citrus Fruit like Lemon, Lime, Grapefruit and Orange, Pear, Grass, Bounty Candy Bars and Ginger Bread.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Vanilla, Heather-Honey, Floral Perfume, Nectarines, Pineapple, Apple-Vinegar,  Tutti Frutti Candies, Raisins, Nuts, Slivovitz, Dairy, Lemon Ice-Tea, Forrest Floor, light Oak and Pepper.

Palate:

Again very Fruity. It's more like a Fruit Cocktail and it's not that easy to pick up all the Individual Fruit. On the Palate, this Bladnoch is pleasantly Sweet. The Alcohol is better integrated at this point but still noticeable. The Oak is there of course but never in an overwhelming way. Quite nice!

Main Flavours:

Sweet Barley, Citrus Fruit like Orange, Lemon, Lime and Grapefruit, Red Apple, Grass, Bounty Candy Bars, Fresh Herbs, Pepper and Menthol.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

White Wine, Melon, Papaya Cream, Nuts, Vanilla, Lemon Ice Tea, Mango Juice, Tobacco, Wet Rocks, Mild Oak and Ginger.
  
Finish:

Long, Warming and still very Fruity. Pleasantly Sweet with just a little Bitterness towards the Dry end. Good interaction between Spirit & Oak. I find Citrus Peel, Orange Liqueur, Red Apples, Melon, Nuts, Grass, Limoncello, Fresh Herbs, Barley, Bounty Candy Bars, Pepper, Ginger, light Licorice and Menthol.

Drinking Advice:

I added a bit of Water and that helps to calm down the Alcohol. It gets Mellow this way but the Fruit explosion is less strong. I also get Nutmeg and Cinnamon in the Finish. My advise is to sip it neat to fully enjoy the abundance of Fruit. But you can easily add a few drops of Water if you like.

Rating: 89

Nose: 22 - Taste: 22.5 - Finish: 22 - Overall: 22.5

Drinking Experience:

Very Nice.

Conclusion:

This Sansibar expression shows that there's really nothing wrong with the old Bladnoch Spirit. It's quite Fruity and this specific not too active Sherry Cask did contribute a lot to maintain an almost perfect marriage between Spirit & Wood despite the long maturation. Whisky of this age can get very Woody but that's not the case here. Once again I find that a good cask makes the real difference between a good, an indifferent and a bad Whisky. My experience has shown that this is the case with all distilleries. There is no bad Spirit unless you cut the Spirit too early and/or too late. But the Heart of the Spirit, a good cask and sufficient maturation guarantee a good Whisky. This Bladnoch is a good example and it flies directly into my All-Time Top 20. Good stuff!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                 January 18, 2019

(Picture Credit: Whisky Advocate)