Craigellachie 2002 The Ultimate Review

“A Bland Speysider”

Country: Scotland 

Region: Speyside

Brand: Craigellachie 2002 (The Ultimate) 

Type: Single Malt Whisky

Age: 9 Years

ABV: 46%

Colour: Golden Sunlight

Nose: A combination of Fruity Sherry Notes, light Smoke and Alcohol. I find Malt, Buttered Toast, Dried Fruits like Raisins and Apricot, Hazelnut-Chocolate Hay, Heather Honey, Orange Marmalade, Plums, Pineapple, Sour Dark Red Fruit, Toffee, light Vanilla, Dried Herbs, Oak and light Menthol. To my surprise I also detect light Smoke, Leather and Dirty Earth. Speyside with a touch of Islay! Finally I find Tannins and a hint of Sulphur. Nothing serious though. What does bother me though is the Alcohol. It's not at all integrated. There are some nice Aromas in the Nose, especially the Fruit and the unexpected Smoke. But on the whole I'm not really convinced and this Craigellachie reminds me of a middle-class Blended Scotch for most of the time.  

Palate: Young, Oily and Bitter Sweet with Sherry, Dried Fruit, Malt, Caramel, light Vanilla, Hazelnut-Chocolate, Orange, Honey, Pepper, Nutmeg and hints of Cardboard, Smoke and Earth. The Alcohol is still too present.   

Finish: Middle Long, slightly Sour but mostly Bitter Sweet with Malt, Buttered Toast, English Marmalade, Sour Cherries, light Vanilla, Toffee, Honey, Pepper, Oak, Nuts and hints of Smoke and Leather. Quite Dry towards the end.

This Craigellachie does not accept added Water very well despite the fact that the Alcohol is toned down of course. Better sip it neat.

Rating: 82.5

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 21 - Finish: 20.5 - Overall: 20.5

General Remarks: The Craigellachie Distillery was built in 1891 and is located between Craigellachie and Aberlour in Banffshire. Since 1998 it's owned by John Dewar & Sons, part of Bacardi. The 14 Years is the only Distillery bottling. Most of the production disappears in the Dewar's Blends. During our trip to Scotland in May 2014 we passed the Distillery. Unfortunately it's not open to the public. 

The Craigellachie I am tasting today was distilled on the 20th of August 2002 and bottled on the 14th of May 2012. It was matured and bottled by the Dutch Independent Bottler van Wees in Amersfoort as part of The Ultimate series. It matured in a First Fill Sherry Butt # 900069 and costs around 75 US Dollars (June 2015). Only 852 bottles were commercialised. This Single Cask whisky is naturally coloured and not chill-filtered.

Drinking Experience Neat: Okay/Good

Conclusion: This is my second relatively young Craigellachie. The first one was the 2002 Coopers Choice that also matured in an Ex-Sherry Cask. I must admit that I didn't fell in love with any of them. This Van Wees bottling has some nice Fruity Aromas on the Nose but the strong Alcohol spoils the fun for me. The light hints of Smoke and Leather were a surprise. On the whole however it feels like a young average Speysider or even a Blended Scotch with a Speyside heart. I can see why the Spirit of this Distillery is mainly used for Blends. The Single Malts I tasted so far are not very memorable. No way I would pay 75 Dollars for a full bottle!

Jan van den Ende                                                                          June 10, 2015

Laphroaig Quarter Cask Review

“I Kinda Like This Laphroaig”

Country: Scotland 

Region: Islay

Brand: Laphroaig Quarter Cask

Type: Single Malt Whisky

Age: NAS

ABV: 48 %

Colour: Golden (Contains E-150 Caramel)

Nose: Medicinal Peat, White Smoke, Iodine, Band Aid, Salted Butter, Sweet Barley, Brine, Soot, Ashes, Wet Stone, Dirty Earth, Charred Oak, light Rubber, light Leather and Shell Fish on the BBQ. All the typical Laphroaig characteristics are there but they are Mellow in a way, quite different from the nice but much more aggressive Aromas of the 10 Years for instance. That's interesting as the Quarter Cask is much younger than the 10 Years. The Quarter Cask Finish does make a difference! Besides the already mentioned, I also find Heather Honey, Toffee, Nuts, Lemon Zest, Apple Juice and an odd Cheese note. The Alcohol is there but it doesn't disturb the Nosing of the Quarter Cask. 

Palate: The Youth of the Quarter Cask is more clear on the Palate. I find Sweet Peat, Smoke, Charred Oak, TCP, Ashes, Brine, Salted Butter, Smoked Mackerel, (Shell) Fish on the BBQ, Sweet Barley, Apple, Toffee, Vanilla, Alcohol, light Rubber and Pepper.

Finish: Medium Long and Dry with Dirty Earth and Smoke, Cigar Ashes, Peated Grist, Charred Oak, Salted Butter, Sea Water, Pepper, Nutmeg, Alcohol, Raw Meat and (Shell) Fish.

Despite the high ABV, the Quarter Cask does not accept Water very well. Better sip it neat.

Rating: 84.5

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 21 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21

General Remarks. Laphroaig is located 2 miles east of Port Ellen on the isle of Islay, close to Ardbeg and Lagavulin. It was founded in 1810 by two brothers, Alexander and Donald Johnston and received its license in 1815. Nowadays it is owned by Beam Inc. It's one of the few remaining distilleries with its own Maltings, accounting for around 15% of their total needs. The rest comes from the Port Ellen Malting Facility and/or the Scottish mainland.

The Quarter Cask was released in 2004 and is Double-Cask Matured, first in the usual Ex-Bourbon barrels for around 5 years before being transferred to the specially recreated Quarter Casks of old days for a second maturation of some months in the famous Laphroaig # 1 Warehouse, right on the shore front. The smaller Casks give an up to 60% larger contact between Wood and Spirit when compared to the larger Ex-Bourbon and Ex-Sherry casks and therefore allow a shorter total maturation period. The Quarter Cask is Barrier Filtered only and bottled with an ABV of 48%. It costs around 60 US Dollars (June 2015).

Drinking Experience Neat: Good 

Conclusion: Until the arrival of the Quarter Cask, you either loved or hated the Single Malts from Laphroaig. Because they stood out. I think the Quarter Cask will divide the opinions in a different way. There will be people who kinda like it and there will be others who kinda hate it. Because it's not as fiery and strong as the 10 years and not as mellow and mature as for example the 18 Years or the old 15 Years. But it' still a Laphroaig! So I'm sure there's a good market for the Quarter Cask, especially since it's reasonably priced as well. As for me, I find it a pity that so much Single Malts today are seemingly developed to please the broad general public. In my opinion Blends were invented just for this cause and they represent over 90% of the total Whisky consumption. Single Malts should try to maintain their original characteristics that made them stand out in the first place. Don't get me wrong, the Quarter Cask is not a bad Single Malt. And I like the fact it's Non Chill-Filtered and bottled at a good 48%. But just imagine the horror if in 10 Years or so people might say: Ah Laphroaig yes, I kinda like that whisky!

Jan van den Ende                                                                    June 6, 2015

Port Askaig 15 Years Review

“You’re the Caol Ila in Disguise”

Country: Scotland

Region: Islay

Brand: Port Askaig

Bottled By: Specialty Drinks Ltd.
Type: Single Malt Whisky

Age: 15 Years

ABV: 45.8 %

Colour: Golden Straw

Nose: Medicinal Peat, Iodine, Cold Smoke, Soot, Tar, Brine, Wet Earth, light Rubber and assorted (Shell) Fish and Meat on the BBQ. There can be no mistake we're nosing an Islay Malt! I also find Sweet Barley, Salted Butter, Honey, Oak, Herbs, Straw, light Leather, Lemon-Pepper, Citrus Fruit, Floral Soap, Sugared Tea and Wet Rocks. None of the Aromas is aggressive. Based on the Nose I would go for either Lagavulin or Caol Ila. The ABV is absolutely correct and the Alcohol is nicely integrated. Pleasant Nose.

Palate: The Delivery is a bit Thin despite the sufficient ABV. I find Sweet Peat, Cold Smoke, Soot, Ashes, Tar, Rubber, Charred Oak, Sweet Barley, Vanilla, Straw, Toffee, Dark Chocolate, Salted Fish and Meat on the BBQ, Lemon, Salt, Pepper, Nutmeg, Dried Herbs, Floral Soap, Sugared Tea and Mineral tones.

Finish: A good Length but a bit on the Thin side. I find Sweet Peat, Cold Smoke, Cigar Ashes, Tar, Sea Water, Salted Fish and Meat on the BBQ, Iodine, Band-Aid, Rubber, Charred Oak, Toffee, Lemon, Pepper, Nutmeg and light Licorice.

I added a couple of drops of water. The Islay Peat and Smoke are enhanced. I find more Fruity tones as well. Citrus and some Pineapple and Grapes perhaps. 

Palate and Finish become too Thin but that's my personal opinion. This Port Askaig certainly accepts a little Water. But as always, don't overdo it! On the Palate and in the Finish, certainly after having added the Water, this Spirit has more Caol Ila characteristics. So Caol Ila it probably is, at least in my opinion.

Rating: 85 

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 21 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5

General Remarks: Around 2011, Special Drinks Ltd introduced the Port Askaig range of Islay Single Malt Whiskies. The well-known UK Whisky connoisseur Sukhinder Singh selected the Spirit for this range. The name of the Distillery is not revealed. The series include or included a NAS at Cask Strength, a 12 Years, a 15 Years, a 17 Years, a 19 Years, a 25 Years and a 30 Years. The 15 Years I'm tasting today matured in a vatting of Ex-Sherry and Ex-Bourbon Casks and was bottled in 2014. The presentation and the bottle are very classy. Nicely done! It's not cheap though at around 100 US Dollars.

Drinking Experience Neat: Good

Conclusion: The Port Askaig 15 Years is a well-balanced and mildly flavoured Islay Malt. As such, it's a nice place to start when you are considering exploring peated Whiskies. It has all the Peat, Smoke, Tar, Soot, Brine and BBQ Aromas that peated Islay malts are known for but they are never too aggressive and in balance with the Barley, Fruit and Spices. The ABV is correct and 15 Years is a very good age to bottle a whisky. You can enjoy this Port Askaig neat or with a little Water. The only thing that prevents me from scoring this Port Askaig even higher is the fact that I find it a bit too Thin on the Palate and in the Finish for a 15 Years Single Malt with an ABV of almost 46%. And a few extra Ex-Sherry Casks wouldn't have hurt the Spirit as well. But despite this, I quite enjoyed the Port Askaig 15 years. Although I do think it's too expensive for a Mystery Malt!

Jan van den Ende                                                                       June 2, 2015

Is this the Place of Birth of the Port Askaig?

Bunnahabhain Toiteach Review

“The Birth of the Peabees”

Country: Scotland

Region: Islay

Brand: Bunnahabhain Toiteach

Type: Single Malt Whisky

Age: NAS

ABV: 46 %

Colour: Light Gold 

Nose: This is as close to Peated Biscuits as you can get. I don't think they exist so I will solemnly christen them Peabees from now on. I find Sweet Peat, Hay, Toasted Barley, light Smoke, Dirty Earth, Rubber, Old Leather, Salted Butter, Toasted Nuts, Warm Apple, Toffee, Dried Fruits, light Vanilla, light Oak and light Spices. The Sherry Cask influence is limited but it does give something extra to the relatively young and slightly rough Spirit. It's a pity that the Alcohol is far from being integrated. Still, I like the Nose of the Toiteach. 

Palate: Good Delivery thanks to the correct ABV. It's rather Sweet but tasty with Smoked Barley, Sweet Peat, Dried Fruits, Toffee, Caramel, Nuts, Rubber, Salted Butter, Vanilla, Pepper, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Leather and Apples.

Finish: Quite Long and a little Hot. Sweet at first but Dry towards the end. I find Dirty Earth, Ashes, Rubber, Charred Oak, Sweet Peat, Pepper, Salt, Malt, Straw and lightly Smoked Meat. The Alcohol is a bit strong here. 

I added a couple of drops of water. On the Nose I find some extra Fruit. Could be Plums. In general, the Nose softens up. It's not at all bad but this way you loose much of the ruggedness I like in young Islay Whisky. Palate and Finish soften up as well. I prefer it neat but you can certainly add a few drops if you want it a little less Hot and Nasty.

Rating: 86.5 

Nose: 22 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 21.5 - Overall: 21.5

General Remarks: Bunnahabhain (Mouth or Foot of the River) Distillery was founded around 1881 and is located close to Port Askaig. Usually, the Distillery dries the Malt with hot air or light Smoke, giving their whisky a more subtle flavour then most of its Peated neighbours on the island. The Toiteach (Gaelic for Smoky and pronounced as Toch Chach) however is one of the few peated Bunnahabhain expressions. It probably matures for around 10 Years and is finished in Ex-Sherry Casks. It comes Un-Chill Filtered and costs around 90 US Dollars (May 2015).

Drinking Experience Neat: Very Nice! 

Conclusion: I feel the urge to return to Scotland and visit Bunnahabhain again. Unfortunately it was closed during our visit to Islay in May last year and we only managed to shoot a couple of pictures outside in the rain. But this Toiteach is a whisky to be enjoyed in the warm and cosy Visitor Centre on a cold and windy Islay day. I suppose you've guessed already that I kinda like this Bunnahabhain expression. It has its flaws for sure as it's Young, Edgy and slightly Hot. But the ABV is correct and the Spirit is not Chill-Filtered. The Sherry finish did add in a subtle way to the final Aroma and Flavour Profile. It's certainly not cheap for a NAS whisky but if I were on Islay right now I would buy a bottle of the Toiteach!

Jan van den Ende                                                         May 28, 2015