BenRiach Birnie Moss Review

“Peated New Make Spirit”

Country: Scotland 

Region: Highlands - Speyside

Brand: BenRiach Birnie Moss

Type: Single Malt Whisky

Age: NAS (Probably 4-5 Years)

ABV: 48% 
Chill-Filtration: No

Whisky Review # 545

Colour: White Wine (Chardonnay) - Artificially Coloured

Nose: Young and Fruity with a New Make Spirit feel to it. The Earthy Peat and Cold Smoke are there of course but in a mild way. Nevertheless, they are the main Aromas on the Nose. I also find light Tar and Ashes, Dusty Road, light Plastic, light Meat and Fish on the BBQ, Toasted Cereals, Yeast, Grass, Straw, light Floral notes, light Vanilla, Lemon, Peanut Butter, Tobacco, Green Apples, light Pepper and some Herbs. Speyside Peat isn't the same as Islay Peat of course but I do find some Medicinal notes that remind me of the latter. The Alcohol is not fully integrated. Most of the above mentioned Aromas are merely hints by the way. It's all a bit plain and not very exciting. 

Palate: Young and Hot. The ABV is too strong for the Young Spirit in my opinion. I can't help but thinking that the Peat and high Alcohol mainly serve to hide the young Spirit. I find Sweet Peat, Dirty Earth, Cold Smoke, Tar and Ashes, light Vanilla, Toasted Cereals, Salted Meat, slightly Sour Green Apples, Lemon, light Pepper, light Licorice, Charred Oak, light Leather and Black Espresso. I would guess that the Birnie Moss matured for 4 to 5 years in Refill Ex-Bourbon casks.          

Finish: Middle-Long, Bitter-Sweet, Edgy and Hot. Quite Dry towards the end. The Alcohol stings a little. I find Dirty Earth, Cold Smoke, Tar, Ashes, Charred Oak, Toasted Cereals, light Vanilla, Pepper, Licorice, Grapefruit Juice, Green Apples, Salted Meat and distant hints of Leather and Black Espresso.  

I added a bit of Water and on the Nose the Peat and Smoke retreat a little and make place for more Vanilla and Floral notes. A bit of Honey pops up as well. Palate and Finish become too Thin for my taste. However, you can cautiously add a few drops to see where it leads you.  

Rating: 81.5 

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 20.5 - Finish: 20 - Overall: 20.5

General Remarks: The BenRiach distillery is located in the heart of the Speyside between Elgin and Rothes. It was founded around 1898 by John Duff, the owner of the nearby Longmorn distillery. Today it's one of the few distilleries with its own Malting Floors. Since 2004, it was independently owned by the BenRiach Distillery Company that also owns Glenglassaugh and GlenDronach. In April this year however, the Walker family and their partners sold the BenRiach Distillery Company to the US drinks giant Brown-Forman, the owner of Bourbon brands like Jack Daniels and Woodford Reserve. A lot of BenRiach's production goes into the Chivas Regal Blends but more than enough is left for the many Single Malt Expressions. The Birnie Moss was released in 2009 and is named after a rugged moorland close to the distillery. It is peated at 35ppm and costs between 40 and 45 US Dollars (June 2016).

Drinking Experience Neat: Okay.  

Conclusion: I am disappointed with this BenRiach. It's too Young and quite Raw so in that respect the name is well-chosen at least. It comes close to being a peated New Make Spirit. The high ABV and the Peat dominate all the rest and perhaps that's the idea behind the Birnie Moss. It's not very expensive of course and the Price/Quality Ratio is not too bad if you like rough young Spirit. For me however this formula does not work very well!

Jan van den Ende                                                                       June 8, 2016

Havana Club 3 and 7 Years Review

“The Sweet Escape”

Short Introduction:

Lately, some very esteemed Whisky Bloggers have released articles where they question if they should continue to write Whisky Tasting Notes as they feel that those might support an industry that is currently overflowing the market with NAS Whiskies of indifferent quality and at very high prices. Next to the fact that they get bored with writing about uninteresting Malts. Many consumers seem to agree and venture into other spirits such as Brandy, Armagnac and Rum. As a Whisky Blogger I have always given my personal opinion on Whiskies and I will continue to do so. If I think a Whisky is indifferent or inadequate I will write exactly that. I can only hope that the market circumstances will return to normal at some point in time as they have done in the past. I must admit that I am a bit concerned in the short term however as the large whisky producers tend to aim at producing mainstream whiskies for large groups of consumers. While I will continue to write my Tasting Notes on interesting Malts and boring NAS stuff a-like, I have always wanted to try out writing a Review of another strong Spirit. For some time already I had two bottles of Rum in my cabinet so finally I have decided to give it a try. I'm really looking forward to this so here we go!

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Country: Cuba

Brand: Havana Club

Type: Plain White Rum

Age: 3 Years

ABV: 40%
Charcoal-Filtration: Yes

Rum Review: # 1

Colour: Pale Straw (Artificially Coloured)

Nose: Young, Light, Fruity, a little Rough and mostly Sweet. The Alcohol is quite noticeable as could be expected at this age. My first impressions are Banana, Canned Pear in heavy Syrup and Vanilla. The Havana Club Rum ages in casks made of American White Oak. As Cuba was not able to buy these casks in the USA on account of the Trade Embargo, they probably purchased 2nd and 3rd refill casks in the Caribbean region from other Rum producers. I also find notes of Toffee, Molasses and Marzipan. It's funny that I keep looking for the usual whisky Aromas but I can't find a lot of them. Although this is a very young Rum I need to consider the fact that Spirit matures much quicker in tropical regions. I do find some traces of Charred Oak as well as a bit of Citrus, Grass and light Ginger. There's not too much going on but the Havana Club 3 Years does have a little personality on the Nose. More than I expected actually as this Rum was created as a mixing component rather than a sipping Spirit. 

Palate: Light, Harsh and mostly Sweet but with a slight Bitterness towards the end as well. Grapefruit Juice comes to my mind. But I mainly find Toffee, Sweet Molasses, Vanilla, Banana, Grass and Straw, Lemon, light Menthol, light Pepper, lightly Charred Oak and light Cinnamon. The Alcohol remains very present.    

Finish: Short and surprisingly Dry. The Alcohol is very present and stings a bit. This is easily the worst part of this Rum. In the end you're stuck with an after- taste that reminds me of Artificial Sweetener and Rubbing Alcohol. Before that sets in however I perceived little hints of Vanilla, Toffee, Banana, Lemon, Ginger and Menthol.     

Added Water completely kills this Rum. I tried it over Ice as well but that did not work for me either. This is indeed a Rum intended for Mixing.   

Rating: 71   

Nose: 20 - Taste: 17 - Finish: 16 - Overall: 18

Drinking Experience Neat: Below Average    

Conclusion: So there it is, my first Rum review! I really liked the experience. I chose this simple 3 Year Old Mixing Rum on purpose to have a reference of young White Rum. I could have chosen Bacardi as well but I happened to have the Havana Club 3 Years in my cabinet. From my above notes it's quite clear that this Rum does not qualify as a sipping Spirit. It's too Young and Harsh and does not show interesting Flavours on the Palate and in the Finish. The Finish is indeed the worst part and the Artificial Sweetener Flavour lingers on for a while. But on the Nose I detected some pleasant Sweet notes like Pears, Bananas and Vanilla. They were underdeveloped in this Young Havana Club but they make me curious enough to taste other - and perhaps better young Rum. 

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General Remarks: The Arechabala family founded a distillery in 1878 in the city of Cardenas, Cuba. The Havana Club brand name was launched in 1934. In the year 1960, Fidel Castro nationalised the company. As a result, the Arechabala family left Cuba. They went to Spain at first but later moved on to the USA. Exports of Havana Club started in 1972, mainly to Russia and Eastern-Europe in general. In 1977, the production moved to a new plant in Santa Cruz del Norte. In 1994, the Cuban government closed a 50/50 Joint Venture with Pernod Ricard. Since then, the product is exported to 120 countries all over the world. Recently Cuban Rum is allowed in the USA again. In the USA, Havana Club is produced by Bacardi, authorised by the Arechabala family. For many years, Pernod Ricard and Bacardi are fighting it out in court as to who may use the brand name. As I write, HC is the 5th largest rum brand in the world. Well-known expressions include the 3 years, the 7 years, the 15 years, the Maximo and the Seleccion Maestros. The 3 Years costs around 20 US Dollars while the 7 years is also relatively cheap at around 30 US Dollars. (June 2016).

This is what the producers say about the production process of the Havana Club 3 Years old:

"Havana Club 3 Years is the result of blending aged and aromatic Sugar Cane Aguardientes with extra light Sugar Cane distillates to produce a selection of young Rums. These Rums are then allowed to rest in White Oak Barrels after which the Maestro Ronero chooses the best barrels and blends the final 3 Year Old Rum which is again set to rest before being filtered and bottled"

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Country: Cuba

Brand: Havana Club

Type: Plain Molasses Rum

Age: 7 Years

ABV: 40%
Charcoal Filtration: Yes

Rum Review: # 2

Colour: Caramel (Artificially Coloured)

Nose: The Alcohol is noticeable but it is much better integrated than in the 3 Years. It's different from Bourbon and Brandy of course but there are some similarities as well. Despite the longer maturation, the 7 Years is still a bit Rough on the edges. My first impressions are Sweet Molasses, Brown Sugar, Vanilla, Charred Oak, Banana, Raisins, Wood Polish, Wax and the Wooden boxes where my late Grandfather used to keep his Pipe Tobacco. I also find hints of Grass and Straw, Toffee, Caramel, Treacle, Bitter Black Espresso, Dirt Road, Roasted Almonds, some Herbs and light Spices such as Nutmeg and Clove. The 7 years needs time to open up so give it at least half an hour in the glass before Nosing and Tasting.  

Palate: A little Thin for my taste. I think this would be much better at 46%. This is quite Dry actually. I didn't expect that to be honest. I find Sweet Molasses, Brown Sugar, Caramel, Toffee, light Vanilla, Raisins, Plums, Charred Oak, Pipe Tobacco, Leather, Licorice, light Pepper, light Nutmeg, light Cinnamon and Banana.         

Finish: Middle-Long, Bitter-Sweet and a little Sour towards the end. Like was the case with the 3 years, this is the weakest part of this Rum. The main drivers are Sweet Molasses, Treacle, light Vanilla, Charred Oak and Pipe Tobacco. I also find a little Pepper, Nutmeg and Cinnamon as well as traces of Dirty Earth, Leather, Straw and Yeast. Quite Dry in the end. The Alcohol stings a bit as well.  

I Added a little Water and I found some more fruit on the Nose. Banana and Pineapple mainly. Some extra Toffee as well. It's certainly less Rough this way as far as Nosing is concerned. Palate and Finish become too Thin for my taste but you can carefully experiment with a few drops. I tried it over Ice as well but that did not convince me. Finally I tried it mixed with Coca Cola and that tasted quite good albeit a little Sweet!

Rating: 82   

Nose: 21 - Taste: 20.5 - Finish: 20 - Overall: 20.5

Drinking Experience Neat: Okay/Good    

Conclusion: This is quite a different Rum when compared to the 3 years. It is certainly a Rum that you can sip and it would combine well with a nice cigar. It's much darker than the 3 years and not only in colour! The 7 years offers lots of Molasses, Treacle, Raisins, Earth, Black Espresso and Tobacco. It does still feel a little underdeveloped and rough. I also think that an ABV of 40% is not quite adequate for this type of Spirit. So while the Havana Club 7 years is not a bad Rum, I'm sure there must be better stuff around. If I can find something of interest here in Brazil I will review it somewhere in the future. Until then!   

Jan van den Ende                                                                     June 6, 2016

The Production Facility in Santa Cruz del Norte

Finlaggan Eilean Mor Review

“Tarry Tarry Night”

Country: Scotland
Region: Islay

Brand: Finlaggan Eilean Mor

Bottled By/For: The Vintage Malt Whisky Company Limited, Glasgow

Type: Single Malt Whisky

Age: NAS

ABV: 46%

Chill-Filtration: Yes
Whisky Review: # 544

Colour: Pale Gold/Straw (Artificially Coloured)

Nose: Young, Sweet and Dirty with Wet Clay, Tar, Cold Smoke, Iodine, Burnt Rubber, Band Aid, Brine, Wet Tarmac, Ashes, Acetone, Smoked - and Fresh Fish and Shellfish, Bacon on the BBQ, Sweet Cereals, slightly Burnt Toast, light Vanilla, Caramel, Lemon, Sour Apples, Green Banana, Menthol, Aniseed and a few Herbs. The Alcohol is not fully integrated. There's no doubt we are talking about a young Islay whisky. On the Nose it's similar to young Ardbeg! 

Palate: A little Thin despite the adequate ABV. I find Wet Mud, Cold Smoke, Tar, Iodine, Plastic, Burnt Rubber, Brine, Ashes, Sweet Cereals, Burnt Toast with Salted Butter, Caramel, light Vanilla, Green Banana, Grapefruit Juice, Apple Vinegar, Lemon-Pepper, Nutmeg, Bacon and a little Oak.    

Finish: Medium-Long and mostly Sweet. There are some light Bitter - and Sour notes as well. I find Sweet Cereals, Burnt Toast, Sugared Tea, light Vanilla, Tar, Wet Mud, Band Aid, Plastic, Burnt Rubber, Cold Smoke, Ashes, Lemon, Licorice, Menthol, Lemon-Pepper and a little Oak. Hints of Salted - Peanuts and Pork.    

I Added a little Water but it becomes too Thin for my taste. Feel free to try out a few drops though. It does make the Malt a little milder.

Rating: 82  

Nose: 21 - Taste: 20.5 - Finish: 20 - Overall: 20.5 

General Remarks: The Finlaggan Eilean Mor is distilled by one of the Distilleries on Islay. Which one is a real secret, only known to a few. The Whisky is named after the ruins of the Finlaggan Castle. It was constructed in the 13th Century and served as the home of The Lord of the Isles and the Clan MacDonald. It is located on a little Island called Eilean Mor in Loch Finlaggan. Finlaggan means Fort of the Island. It was demolished in the 15th or 16th Century. There are 2 other expressions in the Finlaggan series at the moment being the Old Reserve at 40% and the Cask Strength at 58%. Ileach and Islay Storm are marketed by the Vintage Malt Whisky Company as well. The Eilean Mor sells at an average 40 US Dollars (May 2016). That's close to the price (50 US Dollars) of the Cask Strength in many places. Makes you wonder if people won't pay the extra buck to get the CS!

Drinking Experience Neat: Good   

Conclusion: If you're a big fan of Young and Dirty Islay whiskies you'll be okay with this Finlaggan Eilean Mor. It's also kinda fun to keep guessing where this Single Malt was distilled. On the Nose it reminded me a lot of young Ardbeg but on the Palate it felt more like Caol Ila. Who knows! My guess is as good as yours! I must admit however that when I feel like drinking a young peaty Islay I prefer to go for standard 10 Years like Ardbeg or Laphroaig or the 12 Years from Caol Ila just to name a few. They are a bit more expensive of course but you get more balance as well, especially between Peat and Fruit, something I miss in the Finlaggan series. I haven't tasted the Finlaggan Cask Strength as yet so I will try to find a sample somewhere. Finlaggan Eilean Mor is not a bad Single Malt but it is a bit too Young and One-Sided for my Taste!

Jan van den Ende                                                                       June 2, 2016

Westport 1997 (Wilson & Morgan) Review

“Glenmorangie in Disguise”

Country: Scotland 

Region: Highlands

Brand: Westport 1997 (Wilson & Morgan - Barrel Selection)

Type: Blended Malt Whisky

Age: 16-17 Years

ABV: 48%
Chill Filtration: No

Colour: Full Dark Gold (Natural Colour) 

Nose: Full and Mature. Good Balance as well. The Alcohol and Oak are nicely integrated. The Glenmorangie Oranges are certainly there and I also find Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Butterscotch, Sherry, Dried Apricots, Almond, Mandarin, Heather-Honey, Peach Jam, light Vanilla, Espresso, light Pepper, light Mint, Cinnamon and hints of Tobacco and Leather. There is a Sweet Floral note too but I can't put a name to it. After a while I get some Plums as well. This Malt is well-made and not too Sweet despite the long years in the Sherry casks. Good Wood management.      

Palate: Pleasantly Sweet with nice Spices. I find Toasted Barley, Butterscotch, Orange, Mandarin, Sherry, Dried Apricot, Walnuts, Floral Tea, Cherries, Vanilla, Heather-Honey, Pepper, Nutmeg, Ginger, Cardamom and hints of Leather and Wet Stones.  

Finish: Quite Long. A nice combination of Bitter-Sweet, Spicy and Sour notes. Again nicely balanced. I find Toasted Barley, Oak, Orange, Mandarin, Lemon Zest, Sherry, Walnuts, Nutmeg, Ginger, Pepper, Cinnamon and a distant hint of Leather.

With some added Water the Nose gets more Malty- and Floral notes. The Peach develops as well. Palate and Finish do not really improve with added Water but you can carefully play with a couple of drops at a time. Don't overdo it though! 

Rating: 87 

Nose: 22 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 21.5 - Overall: 22

General Remarks: Westport is of course not an existing distillery. This blended Malt is in fact a Glenmorangie mixed with a tiny bit of Glen Moray. The reason for this is that Glenmorangie does not allow Independent bottlers to print the Distillery name on the label. So while this is technically a Blended malt, it is in fact a Glenmorangie Single Malt. This Westport was distilled in 1997 and bottled in 2014 for Independent Bottlers Wilson & Morgan in the Barrel Selection Series. It matured in Refill Ex-Sherry Butts # 3358 and 3359. Only 1292 bottles went to the market. It costs around 70 US Dollars but the availability is limited. 

Drinking Experience Neat: Very Enjoyable. 

Conclusion: Very nice malt. It shows once again that carefully chosen casks make all the difference. The Westport maintained the Glenmorangie Distillery profile while the Refill casks added a gentle touch of Sherry and nice Spices. It's Sweet but not cloyingly so and there are no Sharp edges. The Alcohol and the Wood are nicely integrated and there's balance between Sweet, Spicy and Sour Aromas and Flavours. It's not an extremely complicated Malt but it's well-made and very tasty. I wouldn't mind owning a bottle or two of this Westport. It makes a great after dinner Whisky. Congrats to Wilson & Morgan for a job well-done! 

Jan van den Ende                                                                     May 30, 2016