Important Changes in Tasting Notes


Dear Whisky Friends,

I'm nosing and tasting whisky since the end of 2011 and within short I will have completed 700 Whisky Reviews. Many things have changed in these years with respect to my ability to describe Aromas and Flavours. I will give you just one example to make it clear. Sweet became Sugary or Fruity. The Fruit became a Peach or an Apple, the Apple became a Green Apple or Red Apple and the Red Apple became Fresh, Dried or Cooked. The human brain is apparently able to do that because it stores all memories and activates those memories when it recognises the same Aroma or Flavour in another Whisky. As a result my tasting notes have become longer and more detailed with each passing year. Lots of people have asked me how I recognise all these notes and hints of notes and my answer is twofold. Experience and time.


The experience is self-explanatory I suppose. The more different Whiskies you taste, the more memories you store in your brain for future reference. I would like to make it clear here that it's just my brain of course. That produces my opinion only which is as good or as bad as yours. I can only say in all fairness that after almost 700 Whiskies I am able to distinguish excellent, good and mediocre whiskies. From a quality point that is. Taste was, is and will always be extremely personal.

The second item is time. When I review a Whisky, any Whisky be it a cheap Blend or rare Single Cask, I nose and taste those whiskies on two different days. Each of those sessions will take at least 1,5 hours. I spend most of that time nosing as I regard this the most interesting part of the session. In the first 10 minutes or so I get the basic Aromas and then with time more impressions pop up. Many of those are mere hints or suggestions but it's the fun part of the Nosing. It was the day before yesterday that I suddenly realised that most Whisky lovers will probably not take that long to analyse all bits and pieces and are basically interested in the Quality of the whisky and its basic Aroma and Flavour Profile. I checked this with a few Whisky friends and they confirmed my thoughts. 

So as of Whisky Review # 694 that I will post later today I will split Nose and Palate in two sub parts namely 1- The Main Aromas and Flavours and 2- The Supportive Aroma/Flavour accents. I will also limit the number of these accents. Finally, as of Whisky Review # 695, I will not add Water to my Whisky anymore. I believe that the Whisky should be judged as it is presented and obviously was meant to be. I'm really curious to find out how this works in practise and I'm looking forward to your reactions and suggestions.

Cheers!

Jan

Ardbeg Corryvreckan Review


“Dirty Young Man”

Whisky Review # 693

Country: Scotland
Region: Islay
Brand: Ardbeg Corryvreckan (Bottled 2015-2017) 
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: NAS
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 57.1%
Maturation: Mix of Refill Bourbon casks and French Virgin Oak 
Chill Filtration: No      
Price Range: US$ 65-90 (March 2018). 
Buying Advice: 😒 Negative for the recent batches.  

Colour: Golden Sunset-Amber 

Nose: The Alcohol is quite strong of course so you need to find your way around that. Please give the Corryvreckan sufficient air time before starting the Nosing procedures. There's a young feel to the Spirit and the Fresh Oak is noticeable. I  get the image of visiting a Saw-Mill located in the heart of a busy harbour. I find Diesel, Soot, Tar, Factory Smoke, Fishing boats, Shell-Fish, Varnished Wood and the Dirty Floor of a Gas Station. You get the picture! This is as far away from a client-friendly Speyside Malt as you can get. But while all these "Dirty" Aromas are there, they are not overwhelming. Like a Lion that can't really roar because he got the flew. Next to the above mentioned Aromas I also get Toasted Barley, Toast, Brown Sugar or Treacle, Burnt Grass, Vanilla, Iodine, Leather, Green Apple, Grapefruit, Lemon, Mandarin, Dark Berries, Dried Herbs, Tobacco, Pepper, Ginger, Mint and a hint of Dark Chocolate. A combination of Bitter, Sweet and Sour Aromas without too much balance. I had expected so much more as the early batches of the Corryvreckan received lots of praise. Those days are gone or so it seems to me at least. 

Palate: Bitter-Sweet, Spicy and a little Hot on account of the high ABV. I can't ignore the fact that the Corryvreckan shows some character despite its obvious youth. But it's not well-matured and again I miss Balance. Many of the "Dirty" notes I found on the Nose are here as well but they are stronger. This might scare the hell out of most beginning whisky drinkers! I also find Tarmac, Rubber Tyres, Fresh - and Charred Oak, Ashes, Cocoa Powder, Smoked Mackerel, Burnt Grass, Iodine, Leather, Nuts, Dark Berries, Mandarin, Lemon, Grapefruit, light Licorice, Pepper, Aniseed, Ginger, Cinnamon, Dried Herbs and Strong Black Tea or Espresso.


Finish: Medium-Long and Bitter-Sweet. A few Sour notes as well. The Alcohol remains strong. I find Ashes, Tarmac, Soot, Tar, Brine, Iodine, Factory Smoke, Dirty Earth, Fresh- and Charred Oak, Rubber Tyres, Smoked Mackerel, Toasted Cereals, Vanilla, Toffee, Apple-Vinegar, Grapefruit, Lemon, Cinnamon, Pepper, Cloves, Ginger, Menthol, Aniseed, Burnt Grass, Bitter Chocolate, Seville Orange, Dried Herbs and strong Espresso. It kicks and there's flavour but it's young and misses balance.

Drinking Advice:

I added a little Water and the Alcohol naturally retreats on the Nose and leaves it more Mellow. But also Thin and without much character. On the Palate and in the Finish I got the image of licking a burnt tyre that was hit with Licorice. Not my idea of a good time. Better sip it neat!

Rating: 83     

Nose: 21 - Taste: 20.5 - Finish: 20.5 - Overall:21

Image result for ardbeg corryvreckan

General Remarks:

🏣   The Distillery and Today's Whisky:

The current Distillery was founded in 1815 by John MacDougall close to the little town of Port Ellen on the island of Islay. In 1997 the distillery was bought by The Glenmorangie Company (part of French based Moet Hennessy) from the previous owners Allied Distillers. This company closed Ardbeg between 1981 and 1989 and only produced yearly during 2 months between 1989 and 1997. As a result, Ardbeg is lacking older stocks and is almost forced to launch Limited Editions while maintaining a very limited core range that consists of the 10 Years, the Corryvreckan and the Uigeadail. Like Glenmorangie, Ardbeg likes to experiment with Wood, Toasting and NAS expressions.

The Corryvreckan was released in 2008 to replace the famous Airigh Nam Beist. It is named after a famous whirlpool located just to the North of the isle of Jura. It is said to be "A place where only the bravest souls dare to venture".

Image result for ardbeg stills
Picture Credit: Whisky.com

🍷  The Spirit 

Ardbeg possesses only one pair of Stills with tall necks and rising Lyne arms that create lots of Reflux. A Purifier is connected to the Spirit Still that takes out the heavy Vapours and guarantees a Lighter and Fruity Spirit. The Water for the Spirit is sourced from Loch Uigeadail. The distillery has announced their plans to double the production that currently stands at around 1,4 million litres per year.

Ardbeg spirit maturing in oak casks
Picture Credit: Whisky.com

🌲  The Wood:

The Corryvreckan matures in a mix of Ex-Bourbon casks and French Virgin Oak. There are rumours that more French Virgin Oak casks have been used in the more recent batches as it becomes more and more difficult to obtain sufficient quantities of good Bourbon casks. The increase of the Bourbon production can't keep up with the increase of the Whisky production, particularly in Scotland. This is one of the reasons that the distilleries have launched so many NAS Malts in the last few years as they have the need to re-use their Bourbons casks as quickly as possible due to the scarcity. 

Drinking Experience: Disappointing. I was expecting so much more. I don't know exactly when the batch that I tasted today was bottled but it must have been between 2015 and 2017.

ConclusionI was looking forward to Nosing and Tasting the Corryvreckan. To be honest I thought it would rocket into my top 10 because of the great reviews it got when it was launched. Unfortunately I wasn't able to secure one of those early Corryvreckans and the sample I nosed and tasted today was bottled a few years ago. What can I say? It was not at all the Malt I was expecting. To me the Corryvreckan I tasted today was merely a young Ardbeg that was upgraded by a high ABV and lots of Fresh Oak. It certainly shows character and this is far away from your average today's mainstream Malts. But it lacks sufficient maturation in good quality casks. As a result, it totally misses balance. So if you're into Young, Wild and Exciting Ardbeg go for the 10 Years. If you want maturation and balance go for the Uigeadail. Unless you can find an early Corryvreckan. of course. Then by all means go for it!

Jan van den Ende                                                                    March 1, 2018

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Dalmore Regalis Review


“Tipsy Queen”

Whisky Review # 692

Country: Scotland
Region: Northern Highlands
Brand: Dalmore Regalis
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: NAS
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 40%
Maturation: Bourbon casks with Amoroso Finish 
Chill Filtration: Yes 
Price Range: US$ 65-80 (February 2018)
Buying Advice: 😐. Totally drinkable but expensive given its youth.

Colour: Amber/Copper (Artificially Coloured)

Nose: Young and a bit on the Thin side. The Amoroso Finish is quite noticeable. I find all sorts of Cooked and Dried Fruit but the most eminent ones are Raisins, Sultanas, Berries and Prunes. I also get Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Caramel, Toffee, Treacle, Vanilla, Heatherhoney, Orange-Flavoured Chocolate, Herbal Tea, Tobacco, Marzipan, Amaretto, Lemon-Grass, Ginger and Cinnamon. The Alcohol is not fully integrated. The Regalis is quite Sweet on the Nose and the Amoroso Finish left a big mark on the Young Spirit. It could do with a bit more balance.

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Palate: Mainly Sweet with a few slightly Bitter, Tannic notes for Balance. Again a bit of a Thin and Young feeling. I find Toasted Barley, Caramel, Toffee, Vanilla, Marzipan, Treacle, Amaretto, Dried Fruit like golden Raisins, Sultanas, Prunes and Berries, Honey, Dusty Road, Pepper, Cinnamon, Ginger, Nutmeg, Orange-Flavoured Chocolate and Caffe Latte.  
        
Finish: Middle-Long and a bit Thin. Quite Sweet with just enough Bitterness and Spice from the Wood to keep it interesting. I find Malted Barley, Caramel, Brown Sugar, Vanilla, Caffe Latte, Cocoa Powder, Hazelnuts, Marzipan, Marzipan, Dirt Track, Orange Peel, Pepper, Cinnamon, Ginger and Licorice. Dry/Tannic towards the end.

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Drinking Advice:

No need to add Water. It's Thin enough as it is.  

Rating: 83 

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 21 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 20.5

Image result for dalmore regalis

General Remarks:

🏣   The Distillery and Today's Whisky

The Dalmore Distillery was founded in 1839 by Alexander Matheson. It is located in Alness on the banks of the Cromarty Firth. It is operated by Whyte & Mackay Ltd, owned by Emperador Inc. since 2014. The core range includes the 12, 15, 18 and 25 Years, the Cigar Malt and the King Alexander III. At the moment Dalmore produces around 4 million litres of Spirit.

In 1263, King Alexander III was almost gored by a mighty Stag. One of the ancestors of the Mackenzie Clan saved him with a single arrow shot. As a reward the Clan won the right to bear a Stag's Head with twelve (Royal) points to its antlers in their Coat of Arms. The Mackenzie Family later became the owners of The Dalmore Distillery and added the Stag emblem to their bottles.

The Dalmore Regalis is one of four NAS Dalmore expressions created by Richard Paterson and called The Fortune Merita (Fortune Favours the Brave) Collection. Initially they could only be acquired in Travel Retail shops but now they are widely available. All four have matured in Ex-Bourbon casks made of American White Oak. The difference lies in the finish. All four are finished in different Ex-Sherry casks from Gonzalez Byass, a long term partner of Dalmore. The Regalis is finished in Amoroso, the Dominium in Matusalem, the Valour in a mix of both Matusalem - and Port Wine and the Luceo in First-Fill Apostoles. The latter is in fact a 30 Year old Palo Cortado, sweetened with PX. The Collection was launched in 2016.  


🍷  The Spirit

Dalmore is equipped with four pairs of Stills of various size and form with high Reflux characteristics. Together these stills produce a slightly heavy and more complex Whisky. The Water is sourced from the river Alness.

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🌲 The Wood

The Regalis (Royal or Regal) matured in Bourbon casks before being finished in Amoroso casks. Amoroso is in fact Oloroso Sherry that is sweetened by adding a bit of Pedro Ximenez Sherry. 

Drinking Experience Neat: Good. Dangerously drinkable!

Conclusion: If I were you I would never ever grasp a bottle of the Regalis after having had a spell of bad luck. Because this Dalmore is so drinkable that you will get drunk in no time. Unless that's the purpose of course! It's also a bit of a One-Trick pony though as the Amoroso Finish totally controls the Spirit. I do miss some balance here. Other than that it's an easy-going Young Dalmore that will please a lot of people. Quite mainstream but hey, that was the idea in the first place I think. My main issue with the Regalis is the fact that there is a Thin feeling to it. Because of this I do not think it's worth an average 75 US Dollars or so. Better stay with the 12 Years if you're looking for a solid young Dalmore! 

Jan van den Ende                                                                February 26, 2018

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Glendalough 13 Years Review - Bushmills 16 Years Review - Teeling Small Batch Review


“Ireland Special”

Introduction:

Most of you know that I mainly use samples and miniatures when preparing my Reviews. I usually buy these in Holland and sometimes in Germany or the UK. Sometimes I receive samples from friends or readers or independent bottlers. In only two cases I received a few samples directly from distilleries. When planning my reviews for the coming months I always try to give attention to all Scottish Whisky regions as well as other Whisky/Whiskey/Bourbon producing regions all over the world with special attention to the USA, Ireland and Japan. And last but not least the blends. At the request of many readers I give preference to more recent expressions. As a result my backlog of older samples has increased quite a bit. To do justice to those samples I will review them in the format of Specials. These specials will deal with a specific country like today or with specific bottlers, regions or distilleries. The reviews in these Specials will concentrate on the Whisky and won't go into details about distilleries, maturation etc. I do hope you will like these Specials just as much as my regular reviews and I look forward to your reactions and suggestions. Today's special will look at 3 Irish Whiskeys. Enjoy!
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Whisky Review # 689

Country: Ireland
Distillery: Cooley 
Brand: Glendalough
Type: Single Malt Whiskey 
Age: 13 Years
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46%
Maturation: Apparently First-Fill Bourbon casks 
Chill Filtration: No
Price Range: US$ 75-100 (February 2018)     
Buying Advice: 😒 Too expensive for what it offers. 

Colour: Light Golden (Uncoloured or Perhaps lightly Coloured)

Nose: There's a first waft of Varnish or Thinner but it decreases over time so be sure to give this Glendalough enough time in the glass. I must admit that I most likely wouldn't have identified this as a Single Malt in a Blind tasting as I get a distinct Cereals Aroma. Some First-Fill casks are clearly recognisable via lots of Vanilla and Cinnamon. I also find Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Caramel, Toffee, Porridge, Grass, Straw, Resin, Apple Pie with Nuts, Lemon, Tangerine, Tinned Pineapple, Milk, Fresh Herbs, Mint and hints of Clove and Banana Ice Cream. Most of these Aromas are quite muted. The Nose is quite similar to the 7 Years. Perhaps a bit less Edgy and not quite as Fruity. The Alcohol is still noticeable despite the 13 years in the casks.

Palate: Bitter-Sweet and a little Unfinished. The similarities to the 7 years are quite remarkable. I find Malted Cereals, Caramel, Toffee, Heather-Honey, Hay, Grass, Vanilla, Varnish, Nuts, Pear, Banana, Lemon, Grapefruit, Seville Oranges, Charred Oak, Pepper, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Herbal Tea and a hint of Chocolate.     

Finish: Short, slightly Bitter and quite Hot and Spicy. Again, the Alcohol is quite present. I find Varnish, Thinner, Cereals, Vanilla, Caramel, Charred New Oak, Lemon, Grapefruit, Grass, Pear, Apple, Dried Herbs, Pepper, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Clove, a few Mineral and Metallic notes and hints of Tinned Pineapple and Milk Chocolate. Again, quite similar to the 7 Years. The extra six years of cask time didn't do a whole lot extra to the Spirit. I wonder if all casks used were in fact First-Fill.  

Rating: 80.5      

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 20 - Finish: 20 - Overall: 20    

Conclusion:

Quite disappointing really. At this price-level you would expect a better quality product. I'm not sure if it's the Spirit or the casks or both but there are quite a few weird off-notes to be found. The 13 Years is also remarkably comparable to its younger sister, the 7 years. So I would suspect that at least a part of the casks was not very active. I'm not really a big fan of most of the Irish Whiskeys as I consider them to be blend when compared to Scottish Malts. There are some exceptions of course like the Bushmills 21 Years but this Glendalough 13 Years just doesn't work for me, certainly not at his price level.

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Image result for bushmills 16

Whisky Review # 690

Country: Ireland

Distillery: Bushmills
Brand: Bushmills
Type: Single Malt Whiskey
Age: 16 Years
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 40%
Maturation: Bourbon and Oloroso casks with 6-9 months Port Wine Finish  
Chill Filtration: Yes
Price Range: US$ 90-110 (February 2018)     
Buying Advice: 😐 Good if you like Port Wine. I prefer the 21 Years! 

Colour: Golden Amber with shades of Red (Artificially Coloured)

Nose: Quite a difference with the Glendalough as could be expected of course given the totally different maturation process. The Sweetness of the Oloroso and Port casks is quite overwhelming. In the 21 Years I found more balance between Spirit and casks. Still, if you love Whisky, Sherry, Port Wine and Madeira you're gonna love this Bushmills 16. I find Dark Red Fruit like Berries, Cherries and Red Grapes. I also detect Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Vanilla, Maple Syrup, Dried Fruit like Apricot, Apple and Banana, Papaya Cream with Cassis, Dusty Road, Orange Flavoured Dark Chocolate, Pepper, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Ginger, light Menthol and hints of Tobacco, Marzipan and Espresso. The Alcohol is nicely integrated. As the ABV is clearly too low for a Whiskey of this age, you actually get the feeling you are Nosing a Fortified wine. I clearly miss a bit of balance here. 

Palate: The delivery is way too Thin as a result of the low ABV. The Fortified Wine influence remains very strong. From time to time It reminds me of older Bourbon as well. I find Malted Barley, Toast, Vanilla, Dark Red Berries, Toffee, Dark Chocolate, Rum Soaked Sultanas and Raisins, Red Wine, Nuts, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Ginger, Grapefruit Juice, Licorice, Tobacco and Herbal Tea.         

Finish: Middle-Long and Very Sweet. Some Bitter and Sour Fortified Wine notes towards the Dry end. I find Sweet Barley, Heather-Honey, Dark Red Berries, Port Wine, Orange-Flavoured Bitter Chocolate, Rum, Nuts and Dried Fruit, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Licorice, Menthol, Herbal Tea, Creme de Cassis and hints of Tobacco, old Dusty Leather, Resin, Struck Matches and Strong Espresso.        


Rating: 82.5     

Nose: 21 - Taste: 20.5 - Finish: 20.5 - Overall: 20.5     

Conclusion:

Like the 21 Years, the Bushmills 16 Years suffers from the ridiculously low ABV. They both easily deserve 46%. The 16 Years has one other major flaw when compared to the 21. It misses balance. The Oloroso, and, even more so, the Port pipes take total control over the Spirit. It's not at all a bad Single Malt and Fortified Wine lovers should certainly have a go at it. But for me it's a little over the top. I'll stick to the 21 Years if I want to drink a well-matured and balanced Bushmills.

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Whisky Review # 691

Country: Ireland

Produced by: The Teeling Whiskey Company
Distillery: Cooley
Brand: Teeling Small Batch (Bottled 2015)
Type: Blended Irish Whiskey
Age: NAS
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46%
Maturation: Refill Bourbon casks with Rum Cask Finish
Chill Filtration: No
Price Range: US$ 35-45 (February 2018)     
Buying Advice: 😒 Not a sipping Whiskey. Suited for mixing.

Colour: Golden (Possibly lightly Coloured)

Nose: Be sure to give this Teeling sufficient air time to get rid of strong initial wafts of Alcohol and Thinner/Nail Polish Remover. The Grain Alcohol is clearly noticeable despite the slightly higher (35%) Malt content of this Blend. I get lots of (Tropical) Fruit Aromas but they are more artificial like in Candies. I find Pear, Apple, Pineapple, Mango and Blackberry. I also get Toast and Margarine, Icing Sugar, Vanilla, Toasted Cereals, Refill Oak, Grass, Straw, Nuts, Dusty Road, Orange Peel, Resin, Dried Fruit like Apricot and Raisin, Lemon, Pepper, Nutmeg, Ginger, Grapefruit Juice, Young White Rum and a few Floral notes. Moist of these Aromas are mere hints. The main drivers are Grain Alcohol and Fruit Candy.

Palate: Young, Thin and Sugary Sweet. Almost like Young White Rum. I find Toasted Cereals, Grain Alcohol, Candies with Artificial Fruit Flavours, Apple-Vinegar, Grapefruit Juice, Lemon, Caramel, Vanilla, Pepper, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Clove, Paint Thinner, Grass, Straw, Refill Oak, Resin and Herbal Tea.       

Finish: Middle-Long and Sugary Sweet. More Bitter - and Herbal notes towards the Dry end. A light Alcohol bite. I find Toasted Cereals, Grain Alcohol, Caramel, Lemon, Seville Orange, Candies with Artificial Fruit Flavours, Refill Oak, Cider, Dried Herbs, Pepper, Cinnamon, Grass, Paint Thinner and Vanilla.   


Rating: 77.5      

Nose: 20 - Taste: 19 - Finish: 19 - Overall: 19.5     

Conclusion:

I understand this Blend has a 35/65 Malt to Grain Proportion. I'm pretty sure that Corn is part of the Mash bill. After around 6 years of maturation the Malt and Grain Whiskeys are married and then finished for another 6 months or so in Ex-Rum casks from Central America. I'm not impressed by this Teeling. It often feels like a Young White Rum and it's totally dominated by Grain Alcohol and Candies with Artificial (Tropical) Fruit Flavours. Not good enough as a Sipping Whiskey. This is for Mixing Purposes only. To end up on a positive note: The Bottle, Label and Packaging are really nice!
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Drinking Advice:
Due to the fact that I merely had small samples at my disposal, I only Nosed and Tasted these three Irish Whiskeys neat. As most of you know by now, I'm not a particular fan of Irish Whiskey in general although I did taste a few very nice ones. I'm sorry to say that the three expressions tasted today were not able to change my general opinion in this respect.

Jan van den Ende                                                                February 22, 2018

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Cooley Distillery

Glenmorangie Bacalta Review


“Crossing the Lines”

Whisky Review # 688

Country: Scotland
Region: Northern Highlands
Brand: Glenmorangie Bacalta (Private Edition range) 
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: NAS
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46%
Maturation: Bourbon casks with Madeira Finish 
Chill Filtration: No     
Price Range: US Dollars 85-110 (February 2018). 
Buying Advice: 😏 Interesting for Liqueurs - and Fortified Wine lovers!   

Colour: Light Golden (Artificially Coloured)

Nose: This is very Sweet. The influence of the Madeira casks is very strong. This Bacalta sits in the vast No Man's Land between Whisky and Liqueur or Fortified Wine. Your Nose is welcomed by loads of Sweet Dried Fruit like Dates, Raisins and Apricots, all soaked in Rum or Liqueur. All this Sweetness can't hide the fact that we are talking about a relatively Young Glenmorangie Spirit. I know that the Finish took 2 years but I would guess that the Spirit matured in Bourbon casks for 6-8 Years maximum. As a result the Alcohol is quite present. In addition to the Above mentioned Aromas I also find Sweet Barley, Caramel, Buttered Toast, Heather-Honey, Vanilla, Bounty Candy Bars, Sugared Almonds, Plum Jam, Sweet Apple, Banana, Hay, Orange, Dusty Road, Cinnamon, light Menthol, light Licorice and a hint of Green Tobacco. It's not bad but not quite my thing either!

Palate: The delivery is a little Thin despite the adequate ABV. It's mostly Sweet with a few Sour, Herbal and Spicy notes. The Alcohol is quite present again I'm afraid. I find Sugared Breakfast Cereals, Toffee, Caramel, Heather-Honey, Milk Chocolate, The Dried Fruit from the Nose, Sugared Almonds, Pepper, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Clove, Menthol, Licorice, Sugared Orange Peel, Banana, Charred Oak, Dusty Road, Dried Herbs and hints of Papaya Cream, Green Tobacco and Nail Polish Remover.   


Finish: Middle-Long, Sweet, Sour and Dry with an increasing Bitterness towards the end. The Alcohol bite is noticeable. I find Sugared Breakfast Cereals, Toffee, Caramel, Banana, Apple, Nectarine, Sugared Orange Peel, Nuts, Heather-Honey, Dark Chocolate, Vanilla, Charred Oak, Pepper, Nutmeg, Clove, Licorice, Menthol, Cinnamon, Fortified Wine and hints of Black Espresso and Nail Polish Remover.  

Drinking Advice:

The Bacalta does not improve with added Water. 

Rating: 83   

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 20.5 - Finish: 20.5 - Overall: 20.5

Image result for glenmorangie bacalta

General Remarks:

🏣   The Distillery and Today's Whisky:

The production at this Tain based Distillery started in November 1849. By the end of the 1930's the McDonald family took control of Glenmorangie. They only sold the distillery to Vuitton/Moet Hennessy in 2004. Since 1994, Glenmorangie has been very actively experimenting with different Wood Finishes. The current core range includes the Original 10 Years, the 18 years, the Signet and three 12 Year old Wood Finishes i.e. the Quinta Ruban (Port), the Lasanta (Sherry) and the Nectar d' Or (Sauternes). In the last years however, Glenmorangie launched a large number of Special editions and Travel Retail specials. Currently, around 5,5 million litres of Spirit are produced. We visited the distillery in May 2017. The whole place looks impeccable and the Still House (Cathedral), VC and Shop are a true feast to the eye. It's almost a bit too polished for my taste. It's really the complete opposite of a visit to Springbank in Campbeltown. And, to be honest, I prefer the latter!

The Bacalta (Gaelic for Baked) is one of the latest additions to the Glenmorangie Private Edition Range. It was launched in 2017 as were the Astar and the Pride. It is the first Single Malt of this Distillery that was finished in sun-baked Malmsey Madeira casks.

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🍷  The Spirit 

The distillery operates six pairs of Stills, beautifully lined up in the Cathedral Still House. The Lyne arms are partly straight or with a slightly upwards angle. The stills are the tallest ones in Scotland. They produce a Sweet, light-bodied spirit with Floral, Nutty and Citrus notes. Water is sourced from the Tarlogie Spring.


🌲  The Wood:

The Spirit for the Bacalta first matured in Ex-Bourbon casks. We don't know for how long but my guess would be 6-8 years. The Finish is very special indeed. The casks were made of slow-growth, air seasoned American White Oak. The casks were heavily charred and then transported to Madeira where they were seasoned with Malmsey, the sweetest and best-liked Madeira. The casks were then stored in the rafter of vineyards. This way, the warmth of the sun matures the wine inside. After a few years the casks were shipped to Scotland and the Spirit matured a further 2 years in these casks.

Drinking Experience: Interesting.

ConclusionThere are no laws that prescribe what exact type of wooden casks should or should not be used for the maturation/finishing of Whisky. History has shown that Ex-Bourbon and Ex-Sherry casks usually give the best results. But it is logical and commendable that distilleries are always looking for innovations in this respect. And Glenmorangie has always been very active in this field. And there are times this works out quite well. The Port Finished Quinta Ruban and the Sauternes finished Nectar d' Or are highly successful and are part of the core range of the Distillery. In my opinion this kind of finishing generally works when the Finish adds an extra touch to the original distillery character. It does not work as far as I'm concerned when the Finish takes total control and leaves the Spirit in the No Man's Land between Whisky, Liqueur and Fortified Wine. I believe the latter is the case with the Bacalta. There are interesting Aromas and Flavours, I won't deny that. And many people might like the Sweetness. But to me it's just a young Glenmorangie, totally controlled by Madeira sweetness. I think Glenmorangie crossed the thin line with the Bacalta. I will eat my French Fries with Mayonnaise or Tomato Ketchup or Mustard or Spicy Curry. But not with Whipped Cream!

Jan van den Ende                                                                February 19, 2017

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