Dunville's 10 Years Review



“Weird Scenes inside the Gold Mine”

Whisky Review # 826

Country: Ireland
Brand: Dunville's
Distilled: Unknown. Probably Bushmills or Cooley.
Finished and Bottled By: Echlinville Distillery Ltd, Northern Ireland
Type: Irish Single Malt Pot Still Whiskey (Very Rare Old Irish Whiskey)
Age: 10 Years
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46%
Maturation: Refill Ex Bourbon casks with Pedro Ximenez Cask Finish
Chill Filtration: No
Price Range: US$ 50-60  (August 2019)
Buying Advice: 😕Very Weird Whiskey. P/Q ratio:👎 

Colour:

Golden Straw (Natural Colour)

Nose:

A Varnish/Paint Thinner note strikes first but diminishes with time. Be sure to give this Dunville's enough time in the glass. It remains a bit weird on the Nose though. Perfumed Soap comes to mind. Luckily there's some Fruit behind it too. I don't think I ever had a Whisk(e)y that smelled like this before. The Nose is Light, Medium-Sweet and Grassy. I wonder if some Virgin Oak was used for maturation as well. The Alcohol is noticeable.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Grass, Candies with Artificial Banana Flavour, Dried Fruit like Raisins and Apricot, Nuts, Tart Apple, Green Leaves, Dusty Oak, Cinnamon and Menthol.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Vanilla, Honey, Pineapple, Citrus, Pear, Dark Berries, Wet Newspaper, Pepper, Dried Herbs, Leather and Tobacco.

Bushmills Distillery
Palate:

Young and a little Nervous. The Alcohol is not really integrated. Bitter, Sweet & Sour notes fight for your attention.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Barley, Vanilla, Tart Apples and Pears, Dried Fruit like Raisins and Figs, Mixed Nuts, Varnish, Dusty Oak, Pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg, Cinnamon. Menthol and Cocoa Powder. 

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Caramel, Honey, Dark Berries, Pineapple, Leather, Tobacco & Black Espresso.

Finish:

Short/Middle-Long, Spicy, slightly Edgy & Bitter-Sweet. The Bitterness increases towards the Dry end. The Alcohol stings a little and the relative youth of this Whiskey is more noticeable at this point. I find Barley, Grass and Straw, Vanilla, Biscuits, Tart Apple, Dark Berries, Nuts, Pineapple, Honey, Herbal Tea, Pepper, Ginger, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Menthol, Varnish, Dusty Oak and Cocoa Powder.

Drinking Advice:

Added Water does not improve this Whiskey.

Rating: 78

Nose: 19.5 - Taste: 19,5 - Finish: 19.5 - Overall: 19.5

Drinking Experience Neat: Strange/Okay

Conclusion:

The Echlinville Distillery received its license in May 2013 so we will have to wait a bit for their own Whiskey. In the meantime they sell Gin and release Whiskey that was distilled elsewhere under the Dunville's Brand. Next to the 10 Years I'm reviewing today, a NAS expression has also been released.

I didn't like this Dunville's very much. The Spirit seems unbalanced and a little Dirty. The Dusty and Musty Oak suggests that a longer maturation would have turned the Spirit in Wood Juice. The strong Varnish note suggests Virgin Oak although I didn't find any evidence of that. It smells and tastes a little Weird in my opinion. Some might call it funky but it didn't convince me. And it's quite expensive for what it offers as well. I think I will wait for the first proper home-made Echlinville!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                  August 13, 2019

Cooley Distillery

BenRiach 1990 (Sansibar) Review


“Wooden Heart”

Whisky Review # 825

Country: Scotland
Region: Speyside
Brand: BenRiach 1990 (Samurai Label)
Bottled By: Sansibar/Spirit Shop's Selection in 2015 - 239 Bottles
Type: Single Malt Single Cask Scotch Whisky
Age: 25 Years
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 50.8%
Maturation: Sherry cask
Chill Filtration: No
Average Price: US$ 640 (August 2019) - Lowest Price: US$ 245 (August 2019)
Buying Advice: 😔 The Malt is okay but Wood-driven. P/Q ratio: 👎

Colour:

Golden Straw (Natural Colour)

Nose:

It's hard to believe that this BenRiach matured for 25 Years. It's Fruity but does not show a whole lot of complexity. Quite clean actually. It can't have been a very active cask as well as the Sherry influence is rather limited. It's not bad of course but I would have expected so much more considering age and price level. The ABV is quite stiff but the Alcohol is reasonably well-integrated.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Barley, Vanilla, Grass and Straw, Mandarin, Banana Ice Cream, Apricot, Apple, Dried Herbs, Cinnamon, Pepper and a touch of Aniseed.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Butter Kekse (German Butter Biscuits), Pineapple, Pear, White Wine & Red Wine (Never got that before!), Nuts and Nutshells, Trees and Leaves, Raisins, Musty Refill Oak, Cloves and a hint of Milk Chocolate.



Palate:

Bitter-Sweet, Creamy and Spicy. The Age makes itself known at this point. It's not as Fruity as the Nose would suggest.

Main Flavours:

Malted Barley, Straw, Vanilla, Mandarin, Grapefruit, Slivovitz, Mandarin, Nuts & Nutshells, Banana, Musty Refill Oak, Herbal Tea, Pepper, Cinnamon, Aniseed, Menthol and Licorice.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Salted Caramel, Honey, Apple, Pear, Dark Red Fruit (Cherries?), Lemon, Wet Stones, Cocoa Powder, Leather, Tobacco and a hint of Bacon.

Finish:

Middle-Long and Bitter-Sweet. Some Sour notes as well.The Bitterness increases towards the Medium-Dry end. Quite a bit of Wood and Wood spice. It really shows its age by now. There's also a very creamy mouth feel to it. I find Sweet Barley, Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Honey, Yeast, Straw, Farmyard, Apple, Lemon, Grapefruit, Herbal Tea, Refill Oak, Nuts and Nutshells, Orange Liqueur, Red Grapes, Cocoa Powder, Pepper, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Aniseed and Licorice. After five minutes or so the Dry Menthol like Bitterness kinda returns to your throat. It does not really invite you to taker another sip.

Drinking Advice:

Despite the respectable ABV, this BenRiach does not improve with added Water. You're left with Spicy Oak. Better sip it neat.

Rating: 84

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 21 - Finish: 20.5 - Overall: 21

Drinking Experience Neat: Good but disappointing given Age and Price.

Conclusion:

The BenRiach distillery was founded in 1897 by John Duff & Co and is located in Longmorn, Elgin (Morayshire). It changed hands a couple of times in its history but in April 2016 it was bought by Brown Forman. BenRiach produced more or less 1,8 million litres in 2018. The core range includes a/o the NAS Heart of Speyside, the 10, 12, 21, 25 and 35 years. The peated varieties include a/o the Birnie Moss, the Curiositas 10 and the peated Quarter Cask. I have not yet been able to visit this Distillery as yet. We passed by in 2014 but it was closed for maintenance at the time. BenRiach Spirit is also used in Blends like Chivas Regal, 100 Pipers and Queen Anne.

I was really looking forward to taste this 25 Years old BenRiach but it did not live up to expectations. I mainly blame the cask for this. It's hard to detect any decent Sherry influence and it mostly gave Wood and Wood Spice to the Spirit. That Spirit is quite Fruity actually as you will perceive on the Nose. But on the Palate and in the Finish that Fruit is being overpowered by Wood and Spices. High prices are asked on the Internet as not many bottles are left. The Whisky itself though does not justify these high prices. Better save your money for an other occasion. It's a pity though as it promised so much on the outset!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                    August 9, 2019

Powers Gold Review

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“All that Glitters Is Not Gold”

Whisky Review # 824

Country: Ireland
Brand: Powers Gold
Bottled in Bond by: John Power & Son, Smithfield, Dublin
Distilled: Midleton Distillery, Cork
Type: Blended Irish Whiskey
Age: NAS (5-6 Years)
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 40%
Maturation: 2nd and 3rd Refill Bourbon Casks
Chill Filtration: No
Price: Around US$ 30-35 (August 2019)
Buying Advice: 😐Indifferent Blend. Good for Mixing. P/Q ratio: 👍

Colour:

Amber (Artificially Coloured)

Nose:

Young and a little Edgy. The Grain Alcohol is quite present. Mostly Sweet with a few slightly Sour Citrus notes. A distinct note of Charred Oak as well.

Main Aromas:

Sugared Breakfast Cereals, Cake, Vanilla, Straw, Toasted Oak, Green Apple, Mandarin, Orange, Cinnamon, Menthol and Pepper.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Barley, Butter Kekse (German Butter Biscuits), Caramel, Honey, Pear, Lemon and a light hint of Varnish. There's also a bit of Dark Red Fruit but I can't quite pin it down.

Image result for powers gold

Palate:

Young, Buttery and Spicy. A bit Rough. The Grain Alcohol, Youth and indifferent casks tell their story.

Main Flavours:

Sugared Grains, Buttered Toast, Cake, Caramel, Toffee, Dough, Charred Oak, Mandarin, Green Apple, Cinnamon, Pepper, Nutmeg, Cloves and Licorice.  

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Barley, Honey, Vanilla, Lemon, Seville Oranges, Nuts and Nutshells, Pear and Dairy.

Finish:

Short/Middle-Long. Sweet and Buttery with increasing Bitterness towards the end. I find Barley & other Cereals, Caramel, Vanilla, Honey, Toasted Oak, Pear, Green Apple, Dough, Nuts and Nutshells, Pepper, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Cloves and Licorice.

Drinking Advice:

I added some Water and the sharpish Alcohol retreats of course. That makes it easier to drink but it also kills most of the Flavours and Aromas.

Rating: 76

Nose: 20 - Taste: 19 - Finish: 18 - Overall: 19

Drinking Experience Neat: Okay

Conclusion:

Powers Gold is the best-selling Whiskey in the Republic of Ireland. It's a mixture of Pot Still Whiskey that is made from malted and un-malted Barley and Grain Whiskey. It's triple-distilled of course and the producers discard more heads and tails of the 2nd and 3rd charges thus creating a higher quality Spirit. I'm tasting the old 40% Powers today. In 2013 it was relaunched with a new packaging and a new mash bill while bottled at 43.2%.

Powers Gold is not a bad blend and the P/Q ratio is okay. It doesn't make me happy and it doesn't make me sad. In fact it doesn't make me feel anything. The Spirit is actually okay but it suffers from indifferent refill casks. Maybe the new formula and higher ABV will improve this Blend. As it is, it's okay for mixing I suppose but not really interesting enough as a sipping Whiskey. It's stuff for parties and drinking. Powers to All Our Friends!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                   August 6, 2019

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Highland Park Voyage of the Raven Review


“One Raven Doesn’t Make a Summer”

Whisky Review # 823

Country: Scotland
Region: Highlands - Orkney
Brand: Highland Park Voyage of the Raven
Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Age: NAS
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 41.3%
Maturation: Mix of Ex-Bourbon and a high percentage of First Fill Sherry Wood
Chill Filtration: Yes
Price Range: US$ 55-75 (August 2019)
Buying Advice: 😐 Nothing special. Better stay with the core range. P/Q: 😒

Colour:

Golden (Natural Colour)

Nose:

The Sherry Cask influence is clear and a little Sulphur is noticeable. Nothing too serious though. The Nose is Young, Fruity, Waxy and Sweet. Some Green notes as well. The Smoke weaves its spell in the background. It's all a bit Light but not unpleasant.

Main Aromas:

Malted Barley, Buttered Toast, Vanilla, Grass and Straw, Honey, Apricot filled Puff Pastry, Nutella, Smoke, Dry Earth, Dark Berries, Prunes, Orange, Dark Chocolate filled with Raisins, Cinnamon, Nutmeg and Ginger.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Caramel, Musty Oak, Rubber, Wet Paper, Polished Leather and Tobacco.


Palate:

Young and on the Thin side. A not very convincing mix of Sweet, Bitter and Sour notes. I was expecting more after the Nose.

Main Flavours:

Malted Barley, slightly Burnt Toast, Vanilla, Dark Berries, Prunes,  Nuts, Smoke, Dry Earth, Grass and Straw, Nectarine, Grapefruit, Dark Chocolate, Cinnamon, Pepper, Nutmeg and Ginger.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Salted Caramel, Raisins, Polished Leather, Tobacco, Rubber, Marzipan, Stewed Fruit, Dried Herbs and Musty Oak.

Finish:

Short/Middle-Long. Sweet at first but with some Bitter and Sour notes towards the Medium-Dry end. I find Sweet Barley, Vanilla, Caramel, Hazelnuts, Dough, Grass and Straw, Musty Oak, Smoke, Dry Earth, Grapefruit, Cinnamon, Pepper, Nutmeg, Ginger, Cloves, Dried Herbs, Menthol and Dark Chocolate.

Drinking Advice:

I added a little Water and that intensifies Malt and Smoke on the Nose. Palate and Smoke become quite Thin with an increasing Wet Newspaper note. Better sip it neat.

Rating: 83.5

Nose: 21.5  - Taste: 21 - Finish: 20 - Overall: 21

Drinking Experience Neat: Good

Conclusion:

The distillery was founded in 1798 by David Robertson. It is located in the small town of Kirkwall on the isle of Orkney.  Orkney is still quite strongly influenced by its Viking past and the distillery has increasingly used this past as a rather successful marketing tool. Highland Park currently produces around 2.3 million litres of Alcohol and is owned since 1997 by the Edrington Group. The core range consists of the 10 years (Viking Scars), the 12 years (Viking Honour), the 18 years (Viking Pride), the 25, 30 and 40 years.

The Story behind this Single Malt is the following: For the Vikings who once ruled the Orkney Isles, the Raven was a powerful symbol of victory in battle, success on a voyage and loyalty to the god Odin. Ravens were the trusted guides of the early voyagers that left the Northern shores in search of new horizons. Ravens became symbols of good fortune on many Viking long ships.

The Voyage of the Raven was released in 2017, initially for Travel Retail only. It is not really a bad Single Malt but I strongly feel that Highland Park is overdoing the Viking heritage stuff a bit. Story, Image and Price seem more important than the effective quality of the Whisky. But Highland Park fans from all over the world seem to love it all. So who am I to complain? What I do know though is that it's way better to let the Raven guide you to the above mentioned core range. You are much better served that way. So help me Odin!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                    August 1, 2019

Method and Madness Batch 2 Review

Image result for method and madness batch 2


“You Can Play With Madness”

Whisky Review # 822

Country: Ireland
Brand: Method and Madness - Batch 2
Distilled at: Midleton Distillery, Cork - Bottled: 2017
Type: Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey
Age: NAS
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46%
Maturation:  Ex-Oloroso and Ex-Bourbon finished in French Chestnut Casks
Chill Filtration: No
Price: Around US$ 75 (July 2019)
Buying Advice: 😀An interesting Spicy Whiskey with a reasonable P/Q ratio.

Colour:

Light Golden (Natural Colour)

Nose:

Varnish and Wood Polish are the first impressions. They fade away over time however so be sure to give this Whiskey enough time in the glass. There's a Creamy, Waxy feel to the Nose and you can certainly notice the Virgin Chestnut Oak. It's still Young of course but the Alcohol is reasonably well integrated. A few Spices and Herbs are around as well. The Chestnut Oak gives an interesting touch to this Pot Still Whiskey.

Main Aromas:

Toasted Cereals, Porridge, Vanilla, Apricot filled Puff Pastry, Mixed Dried Fruit and Nuts, Wax, Orange Peel, Peach, Milk Chocolate, Wood Shavings, Cinnamon, Ginger, Mint, Butter and Fresh Herbs.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Brown Sugar Toffee, Rum-Soaked Raisins, Bounty Candy Bars, Pineapple, Red Apple, Dusty Earth, Wet Newspaper, Pepper and a faint hint of Leather.

Image result for method and madness batch 2

Palate:

Bitter-Sweet, Dry and quite Spicy. The French Oak is quite noticeable again and so is the Alcohol. Palate (and Finish) are a little on the Thin side.

Main Flavours:

Toasted Cereals, Toffee, Mixed Dried Fruit and Nuts, Rum-Soaked Raisins, Oak, Citrus Peel, Dark Chocolate, Espresso, Pepper, Cinnamon, Ginger, Cardamom, Aniseed and Fresh Herbs.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Caramel, Vanilla, Honey, Wet Paper, Stewed Apples, Banana Ice-Cream, Dry Earth, Nutmeg and a hint of Varnish and Wood Polish.

Finish:

Middle-Long, Bitter-Sweet and quite Spicy. Increasingly Dry towards the end. The Alcohol provides a little kick. The relative Youth of the Spirit becomes more noticeable at this point. I find Toasted Cereals, Toasted Oak, Caramel, Vanilla, Honey, Stewed Fruit like Apples and Pears, Wet Stones, Herbal Tea, Espresso, Bitter Chocolate, Pepper, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Ginger, Licorice and Mint.

Drinking Advice:

I added some Water and on the Nose you will get extra Fruity - & Floral notes. The Spicy notes are enhanced and mellowed at the same time. I liked it a lot better this way so my advise is to add a few drops of Water.

Rating: 84

Nose: 22 - Taste: 20.5 - Finish: 20.5  - Overall: 21

Drinking Experience Neat: Good (especially with added Water)

Conclusion:

Method and Madness is a Brand name developed by Masters and Apprentices of the Midleton Distillery in Cork in order to experiment with innovation, creativity and anything else out of the ordinary. This Batch 2 was finished in casks made of Chestnut wood from the Isere region in France.

Pot Still Whiskey is different as it consists of both Malted and Un-malted Barley. This usually creates a very Spicy Whiskey and that's certainly the case here. I found that a few drops of water really benefit this Method and Madness. It seems to bring everything into place and provides more balance. It's a pity that this is a relatively Young Spirit. A few years extra maturation before finishing would have done a world of good. The Virgin Chestnut Oak Finish is certainly interesting although new Oak will always give you this Varnish/Wood Polish note that might not be to every one's liking. I'm not really a huge fan of the smooth Irish Whiskies. This rocky Pot Still Madness caught my attention though after adding a little bit of Water. Slainte!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                      July 29, 2019

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