Maristela Cachaça Review - Moonshine White Dog San Basile Review - Code 9 Single Malt Review

“And Now For Something Completely Different”

Introduction:

With respect to Whisky, Brazil is still a developing country. Everybody knows the main Blends such as Johnnie Walker, Chivas Regal and Ballantine's of course. But the demand for Single Malts is still very limited and so is the offer. The very high prices don't help here either. But the main reason is perhaps the climate. Most people consider that Beer and Cocktails like the Caipirinha simply combine better with the tropical climate. It's not for nothing that Cachaça (Sugar Cane Liquor) is the national distillate and the main ingredient of Caipirinha. But Whisky is slowly becoming more popular in Brazil and it's time to give a bit more attention to this fact. Today I'm looking at a White Dog produced in Sao Paulo state that seeks to attract the attention of young people and a Single Malt Whisky from the Southern state of Santa Catarina. To put their performance in perspective, I will compare them to an artisan Cachaça, also from the state of Sao Paulo. All in all, it's quite different from my usual Whisky tasting sessions so I'm looking forward to it!

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Spirit Review # 876

Country: Brazil
Region: Caçapava (Sao Paulo State)

Brand: Maristela Prata

Type: Brazilian Artisan Sugar Cane Liquor
Age: NAS (Six Months)

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 40%
Maturation: Stainless Steel tanks
Chill Filtration: Not Applicable
Average Price Range : US$ 6-8 (June 2020)
Price/Quality Ratio: 👍Good and cheap basis for Caipirinha.
Buying Advice: 😐 See above. It's not good enough as a sipping Cachaça.

Colour:

Water (Natural Colour)

Nose:

The Prata expression did not mature in wooden casks and consequently does not provide us with lots of Aromas and Flavours. The Nose is Clean, Soft and Sweet with Sugar Cane Alcohol as the main driver. A few modest Fruity and Floral notes.

Main Aromas:

Sugar Cane Alcohol, Yeast, Dough, Grass, Green Leaves, Lime and Cloves.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Vanilla, Concentrated Pear Juice, Mandarin, White Flowers (Marguerite). A distant hint of a Petrol station.

Palate:

The Young Sugar Cane Alcohol really prevails right now and you need to dig deep to identify a few additional Flavour components. The Palate is Sweet, Medium-Dry and slightly Oily and Hot.

Main Flavours:

Sugar Cane Alcohol, Lime, Bitter Orange, Grass and Pepper.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Vanilla, Pear, Dusty Earth, Green Leaves, Salt, Nutmeg and Cloves.

Finish:

Short/Medium-Long. Light and mainly Sweet. Some increasing Bitterness towards the "Hot" end. I find Sugar Cane Alcohol, Lime, Bitter Orange, Pear, Grass, Green Leaves, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg and Cloves.

Drinking Advice:

No need to add Water to this Cachaça as it drowns easily.

Rating: 60

Nose: 17 - Taste: 14  - Finish: 14  - Overall: 15

Drinking Experience Neat: Below Average

Drinking Experience on the Rocks: Okay

As a Basis for Caipirinha: Good

Conclusion:

The site of the company tells us that the Brand was founded in the 70's by an employee of a still in the Vale do Paraiba region who always dreamed of producing his own Cachaça. Only in Mid 2010 though the copper still was assembled and the first Cachaça was distilled in 2014. Next to the Silver (Prata) I'm reviewing here, the company also produces the Gold that matured in Oak barrels for at least a year and the Premium that matured for 2 years in Ipe Oak and, quite recently, the Amburana. A whole range of (mostly) Fruit Liquors is distilled as well.

The Prata rests for 6 months in Inox steel tanks before being bottled. This is not a sipping Cachaça as it lacks sufficient Aromas and Flavours due to the fact that it did not have Wood contact. It's okay on the rocks I suppose but it mainly serves as a good basis for Caipirinha thanks to the Citric nature of this Maristela Prata. I can hear the White Dog howling so let's see how that compares!

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Whisky Review # 877

Country: Brazil
Region: Tuiuti (Sao Paulo State)

Brand: San Basile White Dog (Moonshine)

Type: Single Malt without Maturation in Oak barrels (New Make Spirit)
Age: NAS

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 40%
Maturation: Not Applicable
Chill Filtration: Not Applicable

Sample provided by Mauricio from Brazil. Many Thanks!
Average Price: US$ 18 (June 2020)
Price/Quality Ratio: 👍Good and relatively cheap basis for Cocktails
Buying Advice: 😐It's nice to try it out but it's not my regular kind of drink.

Colour:

Water (Natural Colour)

Nose:

The Moonshine San Basile was produced with a 100% Malted Barley. There are some similarities with the Cachaça of course due to the fact that both Spirits did not have Wood contact after distillation. But there are some differences as well. The Moonshine shows more Fruity and Nutty characteristics besides the obvious Grain influence. It's not as Sweet as well. Personally I like this better but that might be a result of the fact that I've smelled and tasted lots of New Make Spirit during my visits to the Whisky distilleries in Scotland.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Barley, Malt Biscuits, Green Apple, Banana, Nougat/Marzipan, Almonds and Alcohol.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Yeast, Dough, Wax, Pear, Milk Chocolate, Caramel, Flowers, Peanuts, Mushrooms, (Lemon) Pepper and a light Meaty note.

Picture Credit: O Cao Engarrafado

Palate:

Malty, Spicy, Fruity and Floral. Medium-Sweet with a few Bitter notes. The Alcohol is more noticeable by now. It is similar to Gin and Grain Vodka but I find it to be a little more subtle.

Main Flavours:

Malted Barley, Malt Biscuits, Green Apple, Banana, Almonds, Alcohol and Pepper.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Dough, Yeast, Pear, Flowers, Lemon, Seville-Orange, Cardamom and Menthol.

Finish:

Medium-Long, Bitter-Sweet, Hot and Spicy. The Alcohol is quite present at this stage. I find Sweet Barley, Dough, Green Apple, Pear, Banana, Grass, Seville-Orange, Pepper, Cardamom, Menthol and Juniper.

Drinking Advice:

No need to add Water to this Moonshine.

Rating: 71

Nose: 18.5 - Taste: 17.5 - Finish: 17.5 - Overall: 17.5

Drinking Experience Neat: Okay/Good

Conclusion:

San Basile Distillery is run by Renato Chiappetta. Since 2019 the distillery offers 16 different distillates including Spiced Rum, Liquors, Gin, Limoncello & Absinthe.

It is understood that around 70% of all Whisky Aromas and Flavours derive from (extensive) wood contact. The rest comes from the distillation process, the Barley, the Water, the Yeast and the "Terroir". So you can't expect to find lots of Aromas and Flavours when nosing and tasting Moonshine. I did manage to identify a few but it took me a while despite the fact that I have nosed and tasted many New Make Spirits in Scotland. This San Basile Moonshine certainly holds its ground. You can sip it or enjoy it over ice but it's best used in cocktails. This New Make Spirit does show some potential and it would be nice to be able to enjoy a well-matured San Basile Single Malt in the future. Who knows!

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Whisky Review # 878

Country: Brazil
Region: Blumenau (Santa Catarina state)

Brand: Code 9
Distilled at: Xanadu Distillery, Blumenau

Type: Brazilian Single Malt Whisky - Pure Malt according to local law
Age: NAS (Around 3 Years)

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 43%
Maturation:  Ex-Bourbons casks and Refill/Re-Charred American and French Oak
Chill Filtration: No

Sample provided by Mauricio from Brazil. Many Thanks!

Average Price : US$ 30-35
Price/Quality Ratio: 😃Pleasant surprise. Okay/Good P/Q ratio
Buying Advice: 👍 It's a nice alternative for Scottish entry level Malts. 

Colour:

Amber (Natural Colour for the time being)

Nose:

Young, Clean and slightly on the Thin side. The Fresh French Oak is clearly there and reminds me of some recent West-European Whiskies. The Nose is Sweet but not overly so. Lots of Biscuity and Nutty notes alongside a little (Dried) Fruit. No significant off-notes.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Malted Barley, Vanilla, Butter Biscuits, Dried Fruit like Raisins & Sultanas, New and Refill Oak, Toasted Almonds, Dairy and Straw.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Toffee, Caramel, Demerara Sugar, Syrup, Marzipan, Honey, Slivovitz, Toasted Pineapple, Cinnamon and Cocoa Powder.

  

Palate:

Young, Clean, Sweet and slightly Thin. No Off-Notes. You can sip this Malt and that's the first time I say that about a Brazilian Whisky (Product). The Alcohol is more present now.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Barley, Butter Biscuits, Vanilla, Cocoa Powder, Dried Fruit like Raisins and Plums, Toasted Almonds, New and Refill Oak, Pepper and Cinnamon.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Honey, Toffee, Marzipan, Citrus Peel, Straw and Licorice.

Finish:

Middle-Long, Young and mostly Sweet. A Little Bitterness from the Oak provides some balance. The Alcohol is quite present at this point and the Malt can't hide its Youth. But, again, no off-notes and without any doubt the best Brazilian Whisky I have tasted so far. I find Sweet Barley, Butter Biscuits, Vanilla, Dried Fruit like Raisins and Plums, Cocoa Powder, New & Refill Oak, Straw, Lemon Peel, Almonds, Pepper, Cinnamon, Cough Syrup and Licorice.

Drinking Advice:

I added a little Water and that adds a Creamy texture to the palate. The Finish becomes too Thin though. Still, a few drops are okay.

Rating: 81

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 20 - Finish: 20 - Overall: 20.5

Drinking Experience Neat: Good

Conclusion:

The creator of this Brazilian Malt is Bruno Mafra. The product is distilled in the Xanadu distillery in Blumenau.

I'm pleasantly surprised by this Code 9. It's the best Brazilian Whisky product I've tasted so far. The main issue is its Youth. It would be nice to try a fully-matured Code 9 Malt, matured in Ex-Bourbon casks with a Sherry wood Finish. Maybe I'm day-dreaming here but this is a promising project and I wish Bruno all the best!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                          June 8, 2020

Xanadu Stills

Ichiro's Malt Wine Wood Reserve Review

“Blackberry Way”

Whisky Review # 875

Country: Japan
Region: North of Tokyo

Brand: Ichiro's Malt Wine Wood Reserve - Leaf Series
Blended at: Chichibu Distillery

Type: Japanese Blended Malt Whisky
Age: NAS

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46%
Maturation: Possibly a mix of Bourbon, Sherry & Mizunara Wood. Red Wine Finish
Chill Filtration: No
Average Price : US$ 260 (June 2020) - Lowest Price: US$ 128 (June 2020)
Price/Quality Ratio: 👎 Too expensive for such a Young Whisky
Buying Advice: 😀 It's expensive but if you love Red Wine Finish, go for it!

Colour:

Dark Amber with shades of Brown and Orange (Natural Colour)

Nose:

It's a young Whisky but the Red Wine casks mask this fact convincingly without over-powering the other Aromas. Nicely done. It's Medium-Sweet and quite Fruity with lots of Dark Red Fruits like Berries. Soft and Pleasant.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Barley, Butter Biscuits, Toffee, Vanilla, Dark Red Fruit (Berries), Cassis, Fresh Apricot, Dried/Fresh Herbs, Milk-Chocolate, Oak, Cinnamon, Cloves, Mint, Cardamom and Licorice.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Roasted Nuts, Coffee Beans, Dried Fruit like Raisins and Banana, Grass & Straw, Floral Soap, Apple Strudel, Bounty Candy Bars, Nougat, Orange, Polished Leather and Pepper. A hint of overcooked Vegetables.

Palate:

The Red Wine casks are more present now without being dominant. Again they succeed in partly obscuring the Youth of this Whisky. The Palate presents a mix of Sweet, Bitter and Sour notes. As you know I'm not a huge fan of Red Wine cask finishing but here it works.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Malted Barley, Caramel, Roasted Nuts, Red Berries, Plum Jam, Seville-Orange, Apple Strudel, Milk Chocolate, Oak, Cinnamon, Aniseed and Mint. 

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Honey, Toffee, Toast, Vanilla, Dried Fruit (Raisins, Dates and Figs), Grapefruit, Lemon-Pepper, Herbal Tea, Polished Leather, Dusty Track, Bounty Candy Bars, Cloves and Soy Sauce.

Finish:

Medium-Long. Medium-Dry. Mainly Sweet with a few Bitter and Spicy notes as well for balance. The Red Wine casks are more noticeable now without overdoing it. I find Sweet Barley, Toffee, Caramel, Vanilla, Honey, Grass, Straw, Seville Orange, Blackberries, Raspberries, Dried and Fresh Herbs, Oak, (Lemon) Pepper, Ginger, Aniseed, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Chocolate, Cherry-Flavoured Cough Syrup, Metal and Mushrooms.

Drinking Advice:

No need to add Water to this Wine Wood Reserve as the ABV of 46% is spot-on.

Rating: 86.5

Nose: 22 - Taste: 22 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5

Drinking Experience Neat: Good

Conclusion:

This Japanese Whisky is named after Ichiro Akuto, the owner/founder of the Chichibu distillery founded in 2008. He is a grandson of the founder of Hanyu, a distillery that was closed in 2004. Ichiro managed to buy around 400 casks of Hanyu Malt. Ichiro's Malt Wine Wood Reserve is a blend of Malt Whisky from these two distilleries. Over the years the Hanyu part in the blend decreases of course. Wine Wood Reserve is finished in egg-shaped French Oak Red Wine Casks called Ovums. They are produced in the Charentes region by Taransaud and are used in the Bordeaux region.

Ichiro's Malt Wine Wood Reserve is a well-made Red Wine cask finished blended Malt. This finish manages to largely obscure the Youth of the Spirit. Ichiro for some reason has become a bit of a cult Whisky and prices have gone through the roof. Objectively speaking I can't understand this hype. Ichiro has produced some nice Malts but it is very Young Whisky and we should not forget that! Still, if you are a big fan of Red Wine Cask Finishing and you have the cash, you won't be disappointed with this Wine Wood Reserve.

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                          June 1, 2020

Chichibu Distillery

Caol Ila 1988 (Carn Mor) Review

“Isn’t It a Pity”

Whisky Review # 874

Country: Scotland
Region: Islay

Brand: Caol Ila 1988 (Distilled on December 1, 1988)
Bottled By: Morrison & MacKay
Bottled for: Carn Mor (Celebration of the Cask Series) on August 18, 2015
Type: Single Malt Single Cask Scotch Whisky - Cask # 4213

Age: 26 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 57% (Cask Strength)
Maturation: Ex-Bourbon Hogshead - 135 Bottles
Chill Filtration: No
Price Range: US$ 350-390 (May 2020)
Price/Quality Ratio: 👎Too expensive for what it offers
Buying Advice: 😐 It's good but it lacks Balance and Complexity.

Colour: Golden (Natural Colour)

Nose:

Be sure to give this Caol Ila enough time in the glass before Nosing. The first impressions are Smoke, Earthy Peat, Wood and a few Burnt notes. The Alcohol is present so you will need to find your way around it. I do not find an awful lot of complexity here. I must admit I'm slightly disappointed as I expected more after 26 years.

Main Aromas:

Malted and Toasted Barley, Burnt Toast, Salted Butter, Burnt Heather, Charred Oak, Dirty Smoke, Wet Clay mixed with Cow Manure and Straw, Cigar Ashes, Soot, Toasted Pineapple, Roasted Coffee, Lemon, Olive Oil, Leather, Aniseed, Herbal Tea, Licorice, Pepper and Ginger.
    
Supportive Aroma Accents:

Toffee, Vanilla, Brine, Iodine, Tar, Burnt Rubber, Varnish, Toasted Nuts, Bacon and Shellfish on the BBQ, Wet Rocks, Grapefruit, Apple-Vinegar, Yeast, Mango, Tobacco, Cinnamon and Cloves.

Palate:

My favourite part of this Caol Ila. I find the Nose rather on the plain side and the Finish slightly Messy and quite Woody and Spicy. On the Palate, Coastal notes, Smoke/Peat, Wood, Spices and Fruit are a bit more in line.

Main Flavours:

Toasted Barley, Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Burnt Heather, Dirty Smoke and Earthy Peat, Soot, Cigar Ashes, Mix of Straw and Cow Manure, Charred Oak, Lemon, Grapefruit, Toasted Pineapple, Leather, Pepper, Aniseed, Menthol, Licorice and Ginger.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Toffee, Honey, Brine, Iodine, Smoked Bacon, Fish & Shellfish, Apple-Vinegar, Wax, Cherry-Flavoured Mints, Tobacco, Herbal Tea, Cinnamon and Nutmeg.

     

Finish:

Middle-Long/Long. Sweet with additional Bitter, Salty & Sour notes for balance. The Alcohol remains quite present. Lots of Wood and Wood Spices as well. I find Toasted Barley, Salted Caramel/Butter, Vanilla, Dirty Smoke, Earthy Peat, Soot, Tar, Brine, Iodine, Ashes, Wet Rocks, Roasted Coffee, Dark Chocolate, Charred Oak, Grapefruit, Lemon, Smoked Salmon, Roasted Nuts, Herbal Tea, Tobacco, Leather, Toasted Pineapple, Apple-Vinegar, Pepper, Menthol, Cinnamon, Aniseed and Ginger.

Drinking Advice:

I added a bit of Water and the Alcohol retreats on the Nose and gives way to a few Fruity notes like Apricot or Peach. Banana perhaps. The Malt also becomes easier on the Palate and in the Finish although Menthol and Cherry-Flavoured Cough Syrup start to dominate the latter. Considering it all my advise would  be to add a few drops of Water in this case.

Rating: 87

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 22.5 - Finish: 21.5 - Overall: 21.5

Drinking Experience Neat: Good. I expected more though.

Conclusion:

The Caol Ila Distillery was founded in 1846 and is located close to Port Askaig on Islay. It was bought by DCL in 1927 and through some mergers is now part of Diageo. The distillery was rebuilt in 1974 and only one old Warehouse reminds us of former days. Traditionally, Caol Ila is an important component of Blends like Johnnie Walker, Bell's and White Horse. But during the last 15 years Diageo has made great efforts to position the Distillery as a Single Malt as well. Caol Ila is beautifully located alongside the strait between Islay and Jura. The Core range includes the 12, 18 and 25 Years, the Distiller's Edition as well as the NAS Moch. We enjoyed both our visits to the distillery in 2014 and 2017 respectively despite the fact that you're not allowed to take pictures.

In general I love well-matured Islay Whisky and Caol Ila is one of my favourite distilleries. But despite the fact that this Carn Mor expression is a good Single Malt, it failed to meet my high expectations and it won't rank amongst the best aged Caol Ila Malts I've tasted so far. There's too much Alcohol, Wood, Spice and Smoke to really consider it as being well-balanced. It probably overstayed its time in the cask a little bit. It's still a good Whisky of course but at today's prices I can't really recommend it. What a pity! I was really looking forward to taste this one!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                     May 25, 2020

All pictures were taken during our visit in May 2014

Bruichladdich Octomore 07.2 Review

“Blame It On My Youth”

Whisky Review # 873

Country: Scotland
Region: Islay

Brand: Bruichladdich Octomore 07.2 (208 PPM) - Scottish Barley Series

Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky - Limited Edition
Age: 5 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 58.5% (Around Cask Strength)
Maturation: Ex-Bourbon American Oak casks + Rhone Syrah Red Wine casks
Chill Filtration: No
Price Range: US$ 150-220 (May 2020)
Price/Quality Ratio: 👎 Too expensive for such a Young Single Malt
Buying Advice: 😀 A Young but well-made Peat/Red Wine combination

Colour:

Golden Straw (Natural Colour)

Nose:

Please give this Octomore sufficient time in the glass before nosing as the ABV is quite high. It's reasonably well-integrated though. The first impressions are soothing Earthy Peat & Dark Red Fruits. Nice combination. The Syrah casks are noticeable but do not overpower the other Aromas. Quite pleasant all in all with a mix of Fruity, Sweet, Sour and Salty notes. It's a Young Whisky of course but it doesn't bother me at all while nosing.

Main Aromas:

Toasted/Malted Barley, Slightly Burnt Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Straw mixed with Cow Manure, Cold Smoke, Earthy Peat, Burnt Grass, Brine, Ashes, Tar, Soot, Smoked Bacon & Ham with Mustard, Red Berries, Grapefruit, Lemon, Roasted Nuts, Dusty Charred Oak, Black Olives, Pepper and Cinnamon.
    
Supportive Aroma Accents:

Heather-Honey, Vanilla, Yeast, Iodine, Green Apple, (Green) Apricot, Orange, Dried and Fresh Herbs, Herbal Tea, Peanut Butter, PVC Pipes, Gasoline Station, Tobacco, Leather, Cherry-Flavoured Cough Syrup, Cocoa Powder, Ginger and Menthol.

Palate:

A nice combination of Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter and Fruity notes. Medium-Dry. Youth and Alcohol are more noticeable now. I can only imagine how awesome a fully-matured Octomore would be. Bruichladdich should really try it out at least once! Once again, the Syrah casks are there but not at all in a suffocating way.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Toasted Barley, Burnt Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Earthy Peat, Cold Smoke, Ashes, Tar, Soot, Dark Red Berries, Lemon, Grapefruit, Mix of Straw & Cow Manure, Green Apple, Smoked Bacon & Ham with Mustard, Dusty Charred Oak, Pepper, Cinnamon, Ginger, Clove, Licorice and Mint.
  
Supportive Flavour Accents:

Heather-Honey, Vanilla, Iodine, Burnt Grass, Seville Orange, Tobacco, Leather, Cherry-Flavoured Cough Syrup, Rubber, Metal, Strong Espresso & Herbal Tea.

Finish:

Middle-Long/Long. Medium-Dry. The Alcohol is certainly strong at this point. Its Youth is also more noticeable. There are a few Rubber and Metallic Off-Notes that I could do without. The Finish is a mix of Sweet, Sour, Salty, Medicinal and Bitter notes. I find Sweet Toasted Barley, Burnt Toast, Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Heather-Honey, Yeast, Burnt Grass, Earthy Peat, Cold Smoke, Ashes, Soot, Tar, Iodine, Lemon, Grapefruit, Dark Red Berries, Herbal Tea, Roasted Nuts, Dusty Charred-Oak, Leather, Tobacco, Strong Espresso, Wax, Cherry-Flavoured Cough Syrup, Smoked Ham, Cocoa Powder, Pepper, Ginger, Licorice and Menthol.

Drinking Advice:

I added a bit of Water and that certainly helps to calm down the Alcohol. The Nose becomes a bit too Peaty though. Palate and, to a lesser extent, the Finish, benefit from the added Water though. I would advise to add a few drops (5).

Rating: 86.5

Nose: 22 - Taste: 22 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5

Drinking Experience Neat: Good

Conclusion:

Bruichladdich was founded in 1881 by Barnett Harvey. During its history it was mothballed various times, the last time in 1998. In 2012 the Islay distillery was bought by Remy Cointreau (France). Since, Bruichladdich is showing a healthy growth again. The distillery produces 3 types of Single Malt, i.e. the unpeated Bruichladdich & the heavily peated Port Charlotte and Octomore. The basic core range includes Classic Laddie, Islay Barley 2010 and Black Art 5. The annual production amounts to around one million litres.

The Octomore 07.2 was launched in 2015, originally for Travel Retail only. I have mixed feelings about this Octomore. On the one hand, the combination of Bourbon and Syrah casks works very well. The Red Wine influence is there but always in a modest laid-back way. Well done! On the other hand, Palate and Finish ruthlessly show the Youth of this Octomore, something the Nose manages to hide in a clever way. The Price/Quality ratio can't be good therefore and I long to nose and taste a fully-matured Octomore! Peat Lovers all over the World should send petitions to Bruichladdich in this respect. Who knows some day!!!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                       May 18, 2020

All pictures were taken during our visit in May 2014

Amrut Portonova Batch 17 Review

“Indian Summer”

Whisky Review # 872

Country: India
Region: Bangalore

Brand: Amrut Portonova - Batch # 17
Type: Indian Single Malt Whisky
Age: Around 5 Years - Bottled in June 2015

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 62.1%
Maturation: Ex-Bourbon and Virgin American Oak with Port Pipe Finish
Chill Filtration: No
Average Price: Around US$ 100 (May 2020)
Price/Quality Ratio: 😐On the limit given its relative youth
Buying Advice: 😁Well made Port Finished Single Malt. Young but Good!

Colour: Copper/Dark Amber (Natural Colour)

Nose:

The Alcohol is very strong so you need to wind your Nose around it. Take your time as there is enough to discover. The first impressions include lots of Dried Fruit and Nuts, Buttery Biscuits, Dark Red Fruit and Spices. Sweet and Sour go hand in hand here. The Port Pipes must have been still very active despite the fact that they are 3rd fill. This is a young Whisky of course but the hot climate during maturation and the intelligent use of casks go a long way in covering it up.

Main Aromas:

Malted Barley, German Butter Biscuits, Toffee, Honey, Dried Fruit like Sultanas, Plums and Figs, Rump-Soaked Raisins, Peanut Butter, Red Berries, Orange and Lemon, Charred Oak, Dusty Casks, Pepper, Cloves, Nutmeg and Aniseed.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Roasted Nuts, Straw, Fresh and Dried Herbs, Fortified Wine, Banana Bread, Mandarin, Leather, Tobacco, Ashes, Milk Chocolate, Puff-Pastry filled with Stewed Apple and Wet Leaves.

Palate:

(Fortified) Red Wine Finishing rarely works for me but this Amrut is not bad in this respect. The Port pipes clearly left their marks but they don't suffocate the other Flavours. The Alcohol is a bit of a problem though. An ABV of around 50% would have been quite sufficient. Adding Water is almost a must here although I'm usually not a big fan as I really prefer to judge the Whisky as presented by the makers. The palate is Medium-Sweet and Dry and presents a mix of Sweet, Bitter and Sour notes in a reasonably balanced way.

Main Flavours:

Malted Barley, Salted Caramel, Honey, Fortified Wine, Dried Fruit like Sultanas, Raisins, Figs and Plums, Orange, Red Berries, Charred Oak, Pepper, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Cloves, Nutmeg, Aniseed, Soy Sauce and Ginger.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Vanilla, Toffee, Pancakes with Golden Syrup, Cherry-Flavoured Cough Syrup, Banana Bread, Nuts, Grapefruit, Dark Chocolate, Tobacco, Leather & Menthol.

Finish:

This is strong stuff of course. It reminds me a bit of Old Bourbon. The Finish is Middle/Long to Long as the Alcohol, Wood and Spices stay with you for a while. There's a slight artificial off-note that I can't quite pin down. Is it Soy Sauce Light perhaps? I don't like that at all! Other than that a mix of Bitter, Sweet and Sour notes with lots of Wood and Spices. Quite Dry towards the end. I find Malted Barley, Caramel, Toffee, Honey, Red Berries, Fortified Wine, Dried Fruit like Sultanas, Raisins, Figs and Plums, Orange, Cherry-Flavoured Cough Syrup, Charred Oak, Dark Chocolate, Tobacco, Leather, Pepper, Aniseed, Cardamom, Cloves, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Menthol and Ginger.

Drinking Advice:

I added a little Water and that helps to calm down the Alcohol. It also enhances the Fruit on the Nose and makes Palate and Finish more enjoyable. In this case I really must advise you to add quite a bit of Water.

Rating: 87.5

Nose: 22 - Taste: 22 - Finish: 21.5 - Overall: 22

Drinking Experience Neat: Good (Especially with added Water)

Conclusion:

The Amrut distillery is located in Kumbalgodu, just outside Bangalore. It started producing Whisky in the Mid-80's but the first Amrut Single Malt was released in 2004.

Batch # 17 matured in a mix of 1st and 2nd Fill Ex-Bourbon casks before being finished in 3rd Fill Port Pipes that are said to have contained 80 Year old Port.

I must congratulate Amrut on this Portonova. It's a young Single Malt but the climate and the makers have done miracles to present it as being well-matured. The Port Finish definitively works here and that strongly indicates correct cask management. It's not perfect though. I simply believe the ABV is way out of line and unnecessarily high. Something in the range of 50% would have been quite alright. And there's a slight off-note that I could live without. It reminds me of artificially sweetened Soy-Sauce. Other than that the Portonova is absolutely okay though. 

शाबाश

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                       May 11, 2020