Adelphi The Winter Queen II

”Sherry Oh Baby” 

Whisky Review # 929

Country: Scotland/The Netherlands
Region: Mix of Islay, Speyside, Highlands and The Netherlands

Brand: Adelphi The Winter Queen II

Bottled By/For: Adelphi (AD) - Fusion Whisky Series in 2018 - 400 Bottles
Type: Blended Malt Whisky

Age: 19 Years* (See Text Below)

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 54.5% (Around Cask Strength)
Maturation: Mix of First-Fill and Re-Fill Ex-Bourbon and Ex-Sherry Casks
Chill Filtration: No

Price Range: US$ 315-360  (September 2021)
Price/Quality Ratio: 😐It can't be cheap but it is quite expensive!
Buying Advice: 👍Well-made. A treat for Sherry-Bomb lovers!

Colour: Dark Amber (Natural Color)

Nose:

Quite Sweet with loads of Dark Sherry notes. The Bourbon casks are still noticeable as well though. Dark Red Fruits, Bitter Chocolate and Molasses lead the way. Nice touches of Old Wood. Quite Dry actually. The Alcohol is well-integrated.

Main Aromas:

Toasted and Malted Barley, Buttered Toast, Molasses/Syrup, Dark Red Fruit such as Blueberries, Blackberries and (Maraschino) Cherries, Sweet Apple, Dark Chocolate, Nutella, Roasted Coffee/Dark Espresso, Polished Old Wooden Floor, Dunnage Ware-House and Violets.
    
Supportive Aroma Accents:

Toffee, Vanilla, Marzipan, Dried Fruit such as Sultanas, Raisins, Coconuts & Apricots, Fortified Red Wine, Nectarine, Toasted Pineapple, Wet Forrest Floor, Dried Herbs, Salty Bacon, Leather, Mint, Wax and a faraway hint of Smoke. 

Palate:

Full, Mature and Oily. Quite Dry. Mainly Sweet but with a few Bitter, Sour and Salty notes for balance. The Dark Red Fruits are now joined by Spices and Wood.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Malted and Toasted Barley, Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Molasses/Syrup, Dark Red Fruit like Blueberries, Blackberries and (Maraschino) Cherries, Dried Fruit like Sultanas, Raisins and Apricots, Dark Chocolate, Polished Old Wooden Floor, Pepper, Cloves, Menthol and Licorice.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Toffee, Vanilla, Dark Honey, Seville-Orange, Roasted Coffee, Forrest Floor, Musty Dunnage Warehouse, Salted Smoked Bacon, Violets and hints of Munster Cheese and Cold Smoke.

Finish:

Quite Sweet, Long & Dry. A few light Bitter, Salty & Sour notes offer a little balance. This is Sherry country though! I find Sweet Malted and Toasted Barley, Buttered Toast, Molasses, Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Dark Honey, Sultanas, Seville-Orange, Dark Berries & Cherries, Dark Chocolate, Roasted Coffee/Strong Espresso, Polished Old Wood, Cigar Ashes and Box, Menthol, Licorice, Cloves, Nutmeg and Pepper.

Drinking Advice:

You can add a little Water but you don't have to. The Alcohol is well-integrated and carries and develops the main Aromas and Flavors.

Rating: 88

Nose: 22 - Taste: 22 - Finish: 22 - Overall: 22

Drinking Experience Neat: Good

Conclusion:

This is the second Winter Queen release. The first one, released in March 2018 was a 9 year old Blend of Scottish and Dutch Single Malts. The Winter Queen II that I'm reviewing today contains much older whisky.

*Its stated age is only 19 years old as the Dutch Zuidam distillery could not contribute with older Malts. The Winterqueen II contains parts of 2 refill ex-Bourbon casks distilled at Teaninich in 1983, part of a 20 Year old Bowmore that matured in a refill Ex-Sherry bud, part of a Sherry-But matured Mortlach distilled in 1993, part of a 19 year old Zuidam that matured in a First-Fill Ex-PX Sherry hogshead and part of a refill Ex-Sherry Butt that contained a blend of matured Highland Malts.

The name of today's Blend refers to Elizabeth Stuart, the oldest daughter of the Scottish king James VI. She was born in 1596 in Fife, Scotland but spent a great part of her life in The Hague in The Netherlands, hence the blend of Scottish and Dutch malts.

The Winterqueen is a well-made and consistent Blended Malt from Nose to Finish. It's quite Sherry driven although the Ex-Bourbon casks prevent it from going over the top. If you're not into Sherried Whisky you should not touch this queen but if you're a Sherry-Bomb adept you're in for a royal treat. Personally I would have added a bit more of Bowmore as it would have enhanced the Smoky touch. But in general this cooperation between Scotland and Baarle Nassau worked out pretty well!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                    September 8, 2021

Clynelish 1997 (The Old Malt Cask)

”Mr. Pleasant”

Whisky Review # 928

Country: Scotland
Region: Northern Highlands

Brand: Clynelish - Distilled April 1997

Bottled By/For: Hunter Laing - The Old Malt Cask Series in February 2015
Type: Single Malt Single Cask Scotch Whisky - Cask # HL 11236 - 280 Bottles

Age: 17 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 50% (On or Around Cask Strength)
Maturation: Refill Hogshead
Chill Filtration: No

Price Average: US$ 165 (September 2021)
Price/Quality Ratio: 😐 Acceptable by today's standards.
Buying Advice: 👍 A well-made consistent Highland Malt.

Colour: Pale Straw/Light Gold (Natural Color)

Nose:

Grassy, Waxy and Citrusy. A mix of Sweet and Sour, Fruity and Floral notes. Oak and Alcohol are there but not in an invasive way. A nice Salty touch. Certainly not mind-blowing but quite pleasant.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Malted Barley, German Butter Biscuits, Butterscotch, Vanilla, Grass & Straw, Wax, Mandarine, Lemon, Apple, Pear, Pineapple, Fresh Herbs, Oak, Pepper, Salt and Sugared Almonds.
    
Supportive Aroma Accents:

Heather-Honey, Toffee, Nectarine, Grapefruit, Orange, Banana Ice Cream, Floral Soap, Wet Stones, Cinnamon, Marzipan and distant hints of Varnish and Tobacco.

Palate:

A pleasing mix of Sweet, Sour and Salty notes. Only a light Bitterness from the Oak. The Alcohol is slightly more noticeable now but it remains quite laid-back despite the high ABV. As on the Nose this Clynelish won't break the front pages but it's a well-made Highland Malt that maintains its distillery character and is not dominated by the wood.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Malted Barley, Salted Toffee, Vanilla, Grass & Straw, Nectarine, Grapefruit, Lemon, Apples and Pears, Pineapple, Milk Chocolate, Sugared Almonds, Pepper, Cinnamon, Ginger, Mint, Cloves and Licorice.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Caramel, Butterscotch, Pastry, Heather-Honey, Banana Ice Cream, Orange, Wax, Floral Perfume, Wet Stones, Wet Leaves, Nutmeg and Tobacco.

Finish:

Middle-Long and Bitter-Sweet. A few Sour & Herbal notes for balance. Medium-Dry in the end. The Alcohol and cask are a bit more noticeable but it all stays within reason. I would say this Clynelish was bottled at the right moment. I find Sweet Malted Barley, Salted Toffee, Heather-Honey, Vanilla, Nectarine, Grapefruit, Lemons & Mandarins, Apples and Pears, Pineapple, Banana Ice Cream, Milk Chocolate, Wax, Fresh Herbs like Coriander, Sugared Almonds, Wet Stones, Pepper, Clove, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Ginger, Mint, Iron, Grass, Straw and Licorice.

Drinking Advice:

I added a bit of Water and although that didn't make a lot of difference on the Nose, it really benefited Palate and Finish. The Flavors develop and are enhanced and the Palate becomes quite Creamy. I liked it both ways but I would suggest to add a few drops to this Clynelish.

Rating: 86

Nose: 22 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5

Drinking Experience Neat: Good

Conclusion:

The distillery was founded in 1819 by the 1st Duke of Sunderland in the small town of Brora. It is owned by Diageo and the spirit is an important ingredient of various JW Blends. It produces around 4,8 million litres of Alcohol per year. Its sister-distillery Brora lies next to Clynelish and has been reopened this year after having been closed in 1983. A new Clynelish Visitor Centre is probably ready by now as well. The pictures were shot during our visit to Clynelish/Brora in May 2019.

I really enjoyed this Clynelish from Nose to Finish. It's not a work of art but a very consistent and well-made Highland Malt from Nose to Finish. A very pleasant mix of Sweet, Sour and Salty notes with plenty of Citrus and Orchard Fruit, Fresh Herbs, Floral Perfume and Spices. The Alcohol is there but I would not give it 50% at a Blind Tasting. Well done Clynelish and Hunter Laing. A good marriage between cask and spirit.

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                    September 1, 2021

Teacher's Golden Thistle

”There’s No Thistle Without Thorns”

Whisky Review # 927

Country: Scotland

Brand: Teacher's Golden Thistle

Type: Blended Scotch Whisky
Age: 12 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 40%
Maturation: Mix of American & European Oak with Islay Cask Finish (Laphroaig)

Chill Filtration: Yes

Price Range : US$ 17-23 (August 2021)
Price/Quality Ratio: 👍 Very competitive at this Price Level
Buying Advice: 😐 If you like Teacher's you should surely give this one a try. 

Colour:

Amber (Artificially Colored)

Nose:

The Nose is mainly Sweet and on the Thin side. The Grain Alcohol is noticeable but not in an aggressive way. I can't find any disturbing off-notes. We can safely state that the Islay Finish must have been short and that 3rd and/or 4th refill casks were used as the coastal peat element is basically non-existing. There is a very faint hint of Peatsmoke but it's of the earthy Ardmore variety. Still, I have nosed far worse at this price level.

Main Aromas:

Malted Cereals, Toast & Margarine, Caramel, Sugar, Grain Alcohol, Unripe Orchard Fruit, Peanuts, (Dried) Red Fruit and Leather.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Heather-Honey, Vanilla, Sweet Barley, Treacle, Citrus, Peat/Smoke, Cocoa Powder, Straw, Mint, Licorice and hints of Cooked Vegetables/Potatoes.

Palate:

Rather Thin. A mix of Sugary Sweet, Sour and lightly Bitter notes. The Alcohol is more noticeable now but given its price class it stays within reason. The overall picture is less aggressive when compared to the Highland Cream and the Clan.

Main Flavours:

Sugared Breakfast Cereals, Caramel, Grain Alcohol, Peatsmoke, (Dried) Red Fruit, Green Apple, Lemon, Nut Shells, Pepper, Licorice and Menthol.

Supportive Flavour Accents:
   
Vanilla, Toffee, Syrup, Straw, Sweet Barley, Cocoa Powder, Peanuts and Leather.

Finish:

Short/Middle-Long, rather Thin and mainly (Sugary) Sweet. A few Bitter notes from the casks and a little Heat caused by the Grain Alcohol. This is easily the worst part of this Blend. I find some Sugared Grains, Grain Alcohol, Toffee, Caramel, Wax, Refill Oak, Peatsmoke, Nut Shells, Menthol, Pepper, Licorice and Leather.

Drinking Advice:

A little Water enhances the Fruit on the Nose but totally kills Palate and Finish. I will finish this bottle on the Rocks as it's the most agreeable way to enjoy this Thistle.

Rating: 76.5

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 19.5 - Finish: 17.5 - Overall: 19

Drinking Experience Neat: Okay

Drinking Experience On the Rocks: Good

Conclusion:

When William Teacher commisioned his new Office in Glasgow in 1875 he used the national flower of Glasgow, the Thistle as a key design element on the front of the building symbolizing strength & beauty. The building, made with Golden Sandstone is still a very recognizable Glasgow icon and a long standing tribute to W. Teacher's famous blend. Teacher's Highland Cream is one of the best selling blends in Brazil, especially in the North-East. Brazil and India are two of the main markets for the Golden Thistle 12 Years. The Grain Whisky and the Malt Whisky with Ardmore and Auchentoshan as the main ingredients are matured, blended & finished in Scotland before being shipped in bulk to Brazil where the blend is diluted to 40% and bottled.

Let me start by saying that the presentation of this Thistle is quite nice. Box, Bottle and Label are all a big step up when compared to the standard Teacher's. The 2nd positive thing to mention is its price. Quite competitive in the battle with JW Red and the likes. And quality wise it's a little step up when compared to the Clan and the Highland Cream. Quite enjoyable on the Rocks as well. But still too Thin, too Bland and too Edgy to enjoy as a sipping Whisky. I'm not a huge fan of Teacher's in general but this is the way forward in my opinion! Let's see if the sales figures confirm my view!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                        August 26, 2021

Ardmore, the spiritual Home of Teacher's

Bowmore 25 Years

” Do You Really Want to Hurt Me”

Whisky Review # 926

Country: Scotland
Region: Islay

Brand: Bowmore
Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Age: 25 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 43%
Maturation: Mix of Ex-Bourbon and Ex-Sherry Casks
Chill Filtration: Yes

Price Range: US$ 320-380 (August 2021)
Price/Quality Ratio: 👎 Way too expensive for what it offers!
Buying Advice: 👎Quite Thin and all-around disappointing for a 25 Years!

Colour: Mahogany (Artificially Colored)

Nose:

The delivery is a bit on the Thin side. A Single Malt this old should at least have an ABV of 46% or, preferably, Cask Strength. Corporate minds produce corporate Malts that obtain corporate profits. It's a pity really! The Nose is mainly Sweet but a few Sour and Salty notes offer some balance in this department. The Peat and Smoke are still there of course but the years have mellowed them down considerably. The Nose is okay I suppose with some Coastal, Floral, Herbal, Sherry & Fruity notes but I was expecting much more.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Barley, slightly Burnt Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, (Dark) Red Berries, Plum/Strawberry Jam, Campfire Smoke, Forest Floor, Strong Tea/Espresso, Dark Chocolate, Tobacco, Dried Herbs, Floral Soap and Cinnamon.
    
Supportive Aroma Accents:

Heather-Honey, Toffee, Vanilla, Lemon, Grapefruit, Green Apple, Iodine, Leather, Wax, Dried Fruit/Nuts mix, Cloves, Mint and Old Wood.

Palate:

Quite disappointing really. I'm a huge fan of well-matured Islay malt with its Creamy mouthfeel, perfect Wood and laid back Peat/Smoke but this one is simply not working for me. Way too Thin and Bland. I absolutely would not give this 25 years in a Blind tasting! The palate is an unassuming mix of (Sugary) Sweet, Bitter and Sour notes. Not really bad but again I was expecting much more. Bowmore is not my favorite Islay Malt and this 25 Years does nothing to change my mind. If you like mature Bowmore, better go for the 18 Years.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Toasted Malt, Burnt Toast, Salted Caramel, Hazelnut/Raisin Dark Chocolate, Campfire Smoke, Forest Floor, Strong Tea/Espresso, Dried Fruit like Plums & Figs, Mixed Nuts (Hazelnut, Walnut), Floral Soap, Dried Herbs, Cinnamon and Cloves.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Heather-Honey, Toffee, Vanilla, Cotton-Candy, Cocoa Powder, Lemon, Grapefruit, Dusty Oak/Cellar, Cigar Ashes, Iron, Mint and Cherry-Flavored Cough Syrup.

Finish:

Middle-Long and on the Thin side. Mainly Sweet with a few Sour and Bitter accents. You hardly notice the Alcohol. The aftertaste quickly becomes quite Dry and slightly Metallic like when you've bitten a coin. Not that I do that a lot of course but...you get the picture. The Finish is easily the weakest part of this Bowmore. I find Toasted Malt, Burnt Toast, Burnt Heather, Salted Caramel, Herbal Tea, Campfire Smoke, Garden Compost, Strong Stale Espresso, Dried Fruit like Prunes & Figs, Mixed Nuts, Dark Chocolate, Cigar Ashes, Soot, Lemon, Grapefruit, Mint, Dusty Oak, Leather, Tobacco, Soap and Cherry-Flavored Cough Syrup.

Drinking Advice:

It's no use adding Water to this Bowmore. It's already too Thin as presented.

Rating: 85

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 21  - Overall: 21

Drinking Experience Neat: Not bad but thoroughly disappointing!

Conclusion:

Bowmore is the oldest Islay Distillery and was founded in 1779 by David Simpson. It changed hands a couple of times along the years but since 1994 the Japanese Suntory group controls Bowmore. Bowmore still malts around 30% of the Barley on their premises. They currently produce around 2 million liters of Alcohol. The core range includes the NAS # 1, the 12, the 15 Darkest, the 18 and 25 Years. Some of the Bowmore Spirit is used in Blends like Rob Roy and Black Bottle. We visited the distillery in 2014 & 2017. I absolutely love the Malting Floor. Nice Shop and Visitor-Centre. Certainly well-worth the visit.

I was really looking forward to tasting this 25-Year old Bowmore and given its salty price-tag I was expecting a lot. Unfortunately though, I don't think I've ever been quite as disappointed when tasting a mature Islay Malt. Let me start by saying that it's not a bad Single Malt but at this age and this price level it should be nothing else but great and it isn't. Way too Thin and, yes, boring. Indifferent casks as well. And we're expected to pay over 300 Dollars for this. No way! Bowmore can produce great mature Malts and the late great but extinct 17 Years is one of my all-time favorite Single Malts. But this 25 Years old hurts and not only your wallet!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                        August 11, 2021

All pictures were taken during our visit in May 2014

Laphroaig Four Oak Re-Visit August 2021

”Water of Life”

Whisky Review # 925

History:

On February 8, 2019 I reviewed a sample of the NAS Laphroaig Four Oak, bought from my reliable Dutch supplier Whiskysite. I was not impressed to put it mildly and it was one the worst Laphroaig expressions I have tasted so far. Let's start with an edited shorter version of the above mentioned Review. You can see the complete review here.

Country: Scotland

Region: Islay

Brand: Laphroaig Four Oak

Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: NAS

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 40%
Maturation: Bourbon, Quarter, Virgin American Oak, European Oak Hogsheads
Chill Filtration: Yes
Price Range: US$ 55-75 (February 2019)
Buying Advice: 😡Come On Laphroaig, you can do much better! P/Q ratio: 👎

Nose:

Young, Light, Sour and Dusty. Some of the famous Laphroaig Aromas are there but in a Watered-Down form. Re-Fill Wood and New Oak are noticeable and so is the Alcohol. The Nose is not really bad but it kinda smells like work in progress.

Main Aromas:

Toasted Cereals, Slightly Burnt Toast, Dirty Peat, Cold Smoke, Caramel, Lemon Ice Tea, Grass, Green Apple, Unripe Banana, Wood Pellets, Smoked Fish, Floral Soap, Salt and Espresso.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Vanilla, Iodine, Soot, Ashes, Tar, Plastic, Rubber, Gas Station, Cheese, Mineral notes, Bounty Candy Bars and a hint of Sweaty Feet.

Palate:

Young and Thin. A mix of Sugary Sweet and Sour notes. Lots of Alcohol. Again this feeling of Unfinished Business.

Main Flavours:

Peated Grist, Dirty Peat, Cold Smoke, Salted Caramel, Floral Perfume, Smoked Fish and Shellfish, Green Apple, Pear, Green Banana, Lemon, Licorice, Pepper & Nutmeg.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Toasted Nuts, Vanilla, Soot, Ashes, Tar, Plastic, Rubber, Iron and Espresso.

Finish:

Middle-Long and very Thin. A mixture of Sugary Sweet & Sour with some Bitterness that develops with time. Medium Dry. I find Peated Grist, Salted Caramel, Dirty Peat, Cold Smoke, Soot, Ashes, Brine, Iodine, Floral Soap, Lemon, Grapefruit, Smoked Fish & Shellfish, Vanilla, Espresso, Licorice, Pepper, Nutmeg and Casted Iron. Clearly a very young Islay Malt. The Alcohol is still noticeable.

Rating: 78

Nose: 20 - Taste: 19.5 - Finish: 19 - Overall: 19.5

Conclusion:

Whisky derives from the old Scottish Gaelic word Uisge-Beatha, Water of Life. It seems to me that Laphroaig takes this a bit too literally with this Four Oak. You use Water for making Whisky but it should not taste as such! Laphroaig used to be a Single Malt that you either liked or hated. With Single Malts like the Four Oak that's not the case anymore. This is overpriced young Islay malt that should probably convince newbies that Peated Whisky is not something you should be afraid of. I know there's a shortage of aged Spirit and I know there's a shortage of good and affordable casks. But I also know that you can't (yet) replace sufficient maturation by New Wood and Smaller Casks.  The Four Oak is a good example of that. It smells and tastes like a rush job. I don't think that Laphroaig is doing itself and the market a favour by releasing Single Malts like this. This is not the way to go. Laphroaig should not be a whisky that's kinda Peaty, kinda Light, kinda Watery and kinda okay.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Re-Visit Laphroaig Four Oak

About a month ago I received a full bottle of the Four Oak as a gift. It was bought at the Travel Retail Shop of the Frankfurt Airport in Germany. I opened the bottle and decided to give the Four Oak another chance. Here are my findings:

Nose:

Not much to add or subtract to my original findings. I think they're spot-on. I do find it a little less Dusty and I will add 0,5 points to the Nose accordingly.

Palate:

It's almost a Peat-flavored Gin. Okay, perhaps I'm exagerating a little but you get the picture. My notes of two years ago totally stand.

Finish:

Very Thin and the worst part of this Laphroaig. No reasons to change the score.

Conclusion:

The Laphroaig Four Oak deserved a second chance on account of the fact that sometimes you will find differences between samples and a full bottle. But that's not the case here. The Four Oak simply isn't a well-made Single Malt and I can't begin to understand why such a fine Distillery would launch a mediocre Malt like this if not out of necessity for lack of aged Spirit and good affordable casks. In any case I do believe that the Whisky Industry should not extensively enter this Road to Nowhere. I added half a point to the Nose so the final score of this Re-Visit is 78.5. And that's not something that Laphroaig should be proud of! 😠

Rating: 78.5 

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 19.5 - Finish: 19 - Overall: 19.5

Jan van den Ende                                                                         August 4, 2021