Glenrothes 1998 Review


“Blend Me Or Shape Me”

Whisky Review # 641

Country: Scotland
Region: Speyside
Brand: Glenrothes 1998
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: Around 12 Years (Bottled in 2011)
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 43%
Maturation: Mix of Bourbon - and Sherry seasoned casks. 
Chill Filtration: Yes 
Price Range: US$ 50-70 (September 2017) 
Buying Advice: 😒 Negative Price/Quality Ratio. Indifferent Wood.  

Colour: Dark Gold with hints of Orange (Natural Colour)

Nose: I'm not too impressed to be honest. I'm not at all sure if I would have recognised this as a Single Malt in a blind tasting. I do get some Refill Sherry Casks as well as some Sulphur but as a whole this comes across as an improved and less aggressive version of the Select Reserve. On the Nose this Glenrothes is rather Light with Floral (Honey) and Citrus (Orange and Lemon) in the lead. I also find Pancakes with Maple Syrup, Buttered Toast, Caramel, Butterscotch, Nut Shells, a bit of Dried Fruit like Raisins and Apricot, Strawberry Yogurt, Apple, White Grapes, Mango, Green Wood, Green Vegetables, Milk and Ginger. Perhaps the faintest possible hint of Smoke. I'm not sure though. The Alcohol is there but not as Sharp and Edgy as in the Select Reserve. All in all a bit of a mixed bag!

Palate: The Alcohol is more noticeable now and I get some Sulphur again. I find Sugared and Toasted Breakfast Cereals, Toffee, Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Straw, Nut Shells, Refill Wood, Honey, Green Apples, Pear, Orange Juice, Pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg, Mint and Cappuccino.

Finish: Middle-Long, Bitter-Sweet, Malty and Spicy. Rather Thin and Rough though. The Alcohol is more noticeable and there's a slight Metallic off-note right at the end. I find Malt, Sugared Breakfast Cereals, Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Nut Shells, Honey, Refill Oak, Straw, Pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Lemon and Mint. Sugared Orange Peels perhaps. Dried Banana Chips after a while.

Drinking Advice:
The Glenrothes 1998 does not improve with added Water. Better sip it neat.

Rating: 81.5

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 20.5 - Finish: 20 - Overall: 20.5


General Remarks:

🏣   The Distillery and Today's Whisky:

The Glenrothes distillery is located in Rothes (Morayshire) and was founded by James Stuart & Company in 1878. Between 1963 and 1989 the number of Stills increased from 4 to 10. The reason was that Blenders highly appreciated the Glenrothes Spirit and used it in great quantities for Blends like the Famous Grouse and Cutty Sark. The distillery is owned by the Edrington Group since 1999 but the brand name was sold to Independent bottler Berry Bros & Rudd in 2010. The current production amounts to around 4 million litres. Because of the Blender's demand, the first Single Malt was only launched in 1994. Their bottles are quite interesting and different. They actually look like hand grenades!

The distillery is well-known for its Vintage expressions. The 1998 was the first Single Malt released by Malt Master Gordon Motion who replaced John Ramsay when the latter retired. It was also the first vintage that was designated as a vintage right after distillation. Before that, the vintage expressions were composed of existing stocks.


🍷  The Spirit:

The five pair of Stills possess Lyne arms with different angles. Together with a slow distillation process they produce a medium-bodied Fruity, Spicy, lightly peated Spirit. The Water is sourced from the Ardcanny Spring.


🌲  The Wood:

The 1998 Glenrothes matured in a mix of around 2/3 Ex-Bourbon casks and 1/3 of casks that were seasoned with Oloroso Sherry from three different producers in Jerez de la Frontera (Spain).

Drinking Experience: Okay/Good

Conclusion:

For the time being I'm not the # 1 fan of this Distillery. The 1998 is not really a bad Single Malt but it does suffer from slightly indifferent Cask Management. I know many people do not care a lot about Sulphur or don't even notice. But I'm not one of those I'm afraid. In the last 5 years I've become quite aware of the overwhelming importance of Wood and Wood treatment in making a good Single Malt. Without it you create a Whisky that might be an excellent ingredient for Blends but simply can't quite convince as a Single Malt. Glenrothes is a relative new-comer to the Single Malt market and profit wise their steady supply to the Blend Industry is probably much more important at the moment. I do hope however that times will change and that somewhere in the future we will be able to enjoy a well-matured 15 year old Glenrothes. The Spirit deserves it!

Jan van den Ende                                                               September 7, 2017

Lagavulin 8 Years 200th Anniversary Edition Review


“That’s The Way Islaykit” 

Whisky Review # 640

Country: Scotland
Region: Islay
Brand: Lagavulin (Limited 200th Anniversary Edition)
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: 8 Years
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 48%
Maturation: American Oak Bourbon casks
Chill Filtration: Likely
Price Range: US$ 60-70 (September 2017) 
Buying Advice: 😀Positive. Expensive but this is what Islay is all about! 

Colour: Pale Straw/White Wine (Artificially Coloured)

Nose: On the Nose, this 8 years hides its youth quite nicely. It's got personality but it does not present the unnecessary Sharp and/or Edgy notes I regularly encounter in not fully matured Islay Spirit. It's not too Sweet as well. It's straightforward Islay and I like it. I find Briny Peat, Campfire Smoke, Ashes, Tar, Soot, Iodine, Wet Sand, PVC Pipes, Wet Cardboard, Diesel, Toasted Malt, slightly Burnt Toast, Caramel, Honey, Leather, Lemon Zest, Straw, Fish and Shell Fish on the Grill, Toasted Walnuts, Herbal Tea, Pepper, Cinnamon, Green Apple, Sour Berries, Oak and some Licorice. Surprisingly Well-Balanced for its age. Of course there's a bit of Alcohol but it's not at all aggressive. The ABV is spot on.

Visit May 2014

Palate: Balanced combination of Sweet, Bitter and Sour. A bit Thin perhaps. Its Youth is more noticeable now but it manages to hold its ground. I find Toasted Barley, Brown Sugar, Salted Caramel, Honey, Smoked Fish and Shell Fish, light Smoke, Wet Clay, Soot, Tar, Iodine, Leather, Green Apple, Citrus Peel, After Eight Chocolate, Toasted Nuts, Fresh and Dried Herbs, Tobacco, light Menthol, light Licorice, Pepper, Ginger and Cinnamon.           

Finish: Middle-Long, Bitter-Sweet, Spicy and Mineral. Quite Dry in the end. It feels a bit Thin despite the adequate ABV. I find Toasted Barley, Salted Caramel, Toffee, Honey Melon, Green Apple, Roasted Nuts, Wet Stone, Wet Clay, Smoke, Ashes, Tar, Pepper, Cinnamon, Ginger, Citrus Peel, Sour Berries, light Menthol, a few Herbs and Tobacco.  

Drinking Advice:
No need to add Water to this Lagavulin. You get extra Fruit (Green Apples) but you loose balance, 

Rating: 88

Nose: 22.5 - Taste: 22 - Finish: 21.5  - Overall: 22


General Remarks:

🏣   The Distillery and Today's Whisky:

The distillery was founded in 1816 by John Johnston and is located on the South-Eastern coast on Islay, close to Port Ellen. It changed hands various times during its history but today it is firmly controlled by Diageo. Lagavulin currently produces around 2.5 million liters. Lagavulin is one of the key Malts in the White Horse Blend. 

The 8 Years I'm reviewing today was launched in 2016 to celebrate the 200th Anniversary of Lagavulin. It's a Tribute to Alfred Barnard, the author of "Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom". He visited the distillery in the 1880's and had an 8 Years old Lagavulin that he described as "Exceptionally Fine". As far as I know, Lagavulin released two batches of this 8 Year old. My sample does not give any information in this respect.

🍷  The Spirit:

Lagavulin operates two pairs of stills. Relatively short Copper contact and a slow distillation produce a full-bodied classical Islay Spirit. The water is sourced from Solum Lochs.

Visit May 2014

🌲  The Wood:

The 8 Years matured exclusively in Bourbon casks made of American Oak. Based on the colour I assume those were Refill casks.

Drinking Experience: Very Good

Conclusion:

This Lagavulin 8 Years shows that with care you can produce a good young Malt. Without the fairy tales, the Gaelic names and with an Age-Statement. Kudos for Diageo in this case. Let's hope this is the way forward. It's still too expensive of course but we need to consider the fact that it's a very special Limited Edition. I was really surprised by the balance of this Lagavulin. You won't find that a lot at this age. A very tasty combination of Sweet, Bitter and Sour while maintaining all the Islay characteristics that we know and love. A real personality! My only criticism is the fact that the delivery, mouth-feel and finish are a little on the Thin side despite the perfect ABV. A few First Fill casks here and there could have done the trick.  Other than that I really liked this Lagavulin 8 years and I would love to see this become part of the core range. It would become an instant classic next to the completely different 16 years. Let's do it Diageo!

Jan van den Ende                                                              September 4, 2017

Visit May 2017

Glengoyne 21 Years Review


“Give More Power to this Glengoyne” 

Whisky Review # 639

Country: Scotland
Region: Southern Highlands
Brand: Glengoyne
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: 21 Years
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 43%
Maturation: Sherry Casks
Chill Filtration: Yes   
Price Range: 120-140 US Dollars. (August 2017)
Buying Advice:😔Good Malt but misses Power. The 15 has a better PQR.

Colour: Copper (Natural Colour)

Nose: The Sherry casks immediately activate the Jingle Bells. Christmas is all over the place. I do perceive a bit of Sulphur but it stays within limits. There is a lot to discover on this Nose so here we go. This is Dried Fruits and Nuts country and I detect Rum Soaked Raisins, Sultanas, Apricot, Banana, Dates, Figs, Plums, Slightly Sour Cherries, Red Berries, Almonds and Hazelnuts. All the ingredients for your perfect Christmas cake. Plus some spices of course. We have Pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg, Cinnamon and Cloves. In addition to all of this I find Toasted Barley, Brown Sugar, Treacle, Caramel, Vanilla, Honey, Toffee, Sweet Apple, Oak, Orange-Peel, Bitter Chocolate, Roasted Coffee, Dusty Road and Tobacco. A very Rich and Luxurious combination. Despite the 21 years of cask time, the Alcohol is not totally integrated.

Visit May 2017

Palate: The Palate basically follows the Nose and all the Dried Fruit and Nuts are still there. The difference is the density. On the Palate, this Glengoyne is a little on the Thin side and I can almost hear it scream for an ABV of 46-48%. A little Sulphur here as well but nothing really serious. I also find Toasted Barley, Treacle, Caramel, Vanilla, Sour Strawberries, Red Apple, Orange Peel, Mandarin, Honey, Cinnamon, Pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg, Cloves, Dried Herbs, light Licorice, Menthol, Oak, Bitter Chocolate, Dusty Road and a little Alcohol.  

Finish: Middle-Long. Sweet and Spicy with a few Sour- and Bitter notes as well. Quite Dry in the end. You would wish for a longer Finish but the relatively low ABV won't allow that. I find Toasted Barley, Brown Sugar, Caramel, Orange-Peel, Sour Berries, Red Apple, Dark Chocolate, Espresso, Tobacco, Pepper, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Cloves, Ginger, Cardamom, light Licorice, Menthol, Dried Banana and Salted Nuts.  

Drinking Advice:
I added the famous three drops of Water but the Glengoyne 21 Years does not improve. Better sip it neat.

Rating: 86  

Nose: 22.5 - Taste: 21 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5


General Remarks:


🏣   The Distillery and Today's Whisky:

The Burnfoot distillery was founded in 1833 by the Edmonstone Family. Lang Brothers bought the distillery in 1876 and changed the name to Glenguin before it finally became Glengoyne in 1905. Since 2003, the distillery is owned by Ian Macleod Distillers Ltd. It is located in Dumgoyne near Killearn, close to Glasgow. It sits right on the boundary between Highlands and Lowlands. The distillery itself is in the Highlands while the warehouses are just down the road in the Lowlands. The production stands currently at slightly under 1 million liters. The core range includes the 10, 12, 15, 18, 21 and 25 years. The location close to Glasgow makes it very accessible for day tours and around 60.000 people visit the distillery each year. We were there last May as well on a sunny Sunday afternoon and the place was packed with visitors. Four tours were being held at the same time. The distillery is certainly worth a visit and the shop and location are very nice as well. But it's better to avoid the weekend!

The latest version of the 21 Years that I'm reviewing today was launched in 2007. Packaging and Bottle are very sophisticated.

Visit May 2017
🍷  The Spirit 

Glengoyne operates one Wash Still and two Spirit Stills with Lyne Arms that point slightly downwards. They produce a medium-bodied Sweet, Floral, Malty Spirit. The Malt is part of Blends like Lang's Supreme, Cutty Sark and Famous Grouse. The Water is sourced from Loch Carron.

Visit May 2017
🌲  The Wood:

Glengoyne 21 Years matures in First-Fill European Oak Ex-Sherry casks. They gave good Colour and sufficient Aromas and Flavours to the Spirit. Unfortunately it is watered down too much

Drinking Experience: Good

Conclusion

If ever there was a Single Malt that deserved a higher ABV, it's the Glengoyne 21 Years. What a pity. The Nose is truly wonderful and you only have to close your eyes to imagine Nosing this Whisky close to the open fire after a very nice Christmas Dinner. But than you take a sip and you can't help but feeling ever so slightly disappointed. This is not a bad Single Malt mind you but it could have been so much better. And at this price level people would pay a little more for an ABV of 46-48%. I understand that Glengoyne released a new 25 years that was bottled at 48%. I can't wait to taste that one and I would highly suggest Glengoyne to reconsider the ABV of the 21 Years as well. 100% First Fill Sherry casks simply deserve to be enjoyed to the full without the Spirit being watered down too much. As it stands, the Glengoyne 21 Years is still a very nice Single Malt but it's also quite expensive. The 15 Years has a much better Price/Quality ratio (PQR) even considering the fact that this Glengoyne matures in a mix of Bourbon and Sherry casks.

Jan van den Ende                                                                   August 31, 2017

Visit May 2017

Caperdonich 18 Years Review - Glen Keith 19 Years Review - Strathmill 21 Years Review


“Anam na h-Alba Special”

Introduction:

Most of you know that I mainly use samples and miniatures when preparing my Reviews. I usually buy these in Holland and sometimes in Germany or the UK. Sometimes I receive samples from friends or readers or independent bottlers. In only two cases I received a few samples directly from distilleries. When planning my reviews for the coming months I always try to give attention to all Scottish Whisky regions as well as other Whisky/Whiskey/Bourbon producing regions all over the world with special attention to the USA, Ireland and Japan. And last but not least the blends. At the request of many readers I give preference to more recent expressions. As a result my backlog of older samples has increased quite a bit. To do justice to those samples I will review them in the format of Specials. These specials will deal with a specific bottler like today or with specific regions, countries or distilleries. The reviews in these Specials will concentrate on the Whisky and won't go into details about distilleries, maturation etc. I do hope you will like these Specials just as much as my regular reviews and I look forward to your reactions and suggestions. Today's special will look at three Single Malts from Speyside, bottled by German Indie-Bottler Anam na h-Alba. Enjoy! 

Anam na h-Alba (The Soul of Scotland)

Anam na h-Alba (The Soul of Scotland) was founded in 2011 by Tom Skowronek in the city of Oberhausen in the German Ruhr area. It's the first independent bottler in that part of Germany. The goal of the company is to identify selected casks of Whisky all over Europe but particularly in Scotland. These casks will then be bottled at Cask Strength under the Anam na h-Alba label. All Malts are coloured naturally and Chill-Filtration is not applied. The company grew steady over the years and in 2015 a small Tasting Shop was opened in Oberhausen. In June of 2018 the company will organise Edition # 4 of "Just Whisky", the Whisky Fair in Oberhausen. You can find their Web Shop here: Anam na h-Alba.

In today's Special I will look at three of their older Single Cask releases. They are no longer available in the shop but you might find the odd bottle on the Internet or in auctions.

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Whisky Review # 636

Country: Scotland
Region: Speyside
Brand: Caperdonich 1994
Status Distillery: Closed in 2002. Demolished in 2010
Type: Single Malt Single Cask Whisky
Age: 18 Years
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 49.2%
Maturation: Bourbon Barrel (155 Bottles)  
Chill Filtration: No  
Price Range: Around 100 US Dollars. (August 2017)
Sample received from Tom in Germany. Many Thanks!
Buying Advice:😏 Typical Aperitif Malt. Too expensive for what it offers. 

Colour: Pale Straw/White Wine (Natural Colour)

Nose: Fresh, Crisp and Clean. Sweet but also with a few Sour and Herbal notes. A typical Summer Dram to enjoy before Lunch or Dinner. I find Toasted Barley, Buttered Toast, Vanilla, Toffee, Caramel, Apple-Juice, Unripe Pear, Melon, Lemon Peel, Heather-Honey, Grass, Straw, Fresh Mint, light Aniseed, Cinnamon, Ginger, light Cocoa Powder, Dried Herbs and hints of Nail Polish, Charred Oak and Bitter Lemon (Soft drink). A few Floral notes that I can't put a name to. Uncomplicated is the best way to describe this Caperdonich. Caperdonich was often referred to as Glen Grant 2 and with reason. This is quite similar to a Glen Grant 16 Years I tasted earlier.

Palate: Mainly Sweet and a little Edgy. The Alcohol is a bit Sharp. I find Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Vanilla, Caramel, Heather-Honey, Green Apple, Unripe Pear, Lemon, Grapefruit, Nut Shells, Grass, Straw, Charred Oak, Wet Stones, Herbal Tea, Pepper, Ginger, Cinnamon, Cardamom, light Licorice and traces of Tobacco and Cocoa Powder. 

Finish: Middle-Long, Bitter-Sweet, Creamy, slightly Sharp and Dry towards the end. The Alcohol is more noticeable by now.  I find Sweet Toasted Barley, Toffee, Vanilla, Caramel, Heather-Honey, Gooseberries, Lemon, Grapefruit, Nut Shells, Tobacco, Grass, Charred Oak, Mint, light Aniseed, Ginger, Cardamom, Pepper, light Licorice, Wet Stone and Dried Herbs.     

Rating: 81.5

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 20.5 - Finish: 20 - Overall: 20.5

Conclusion

This Caperdonich was distilled on the 9th of July, 1994 and bottled on the 17th of August, 2012. It is not a very intriguing Single Malt. Quite Floral and Lemony with a few Spices and Herbs for balance. Nice aperitif on a sunny day. The Finish is a tad too bitter and the Alcohol becomes more noticeable towards the end. It's okay I guess but not really my favourite type of Malt.


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Whisky Review # 637

Country: Scotland
Region: Speyside
Brand: Glen Keith 1992
Type: Single Malt Single Cask Whisky
Age: 19 Years
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 51.9%
Maturation: American Oak Barrel (217 Bottles) 
Chill Filtration: No   
Price Range: Around 110 US Dollars. (August 2017)
Sample received from Tom in Germany. Many Thanks!
Buying Advice: 😏 A bit too Aggressive and Sharp for a Speyside Malt. 

Colour: Chardonnay (Natural Colour)

Nose: Be sure to give this Glen Keith sufficient time in the glass before Nosing. The Alcohol is present and you will need to find your way around it. On the Nose, this Glen Keith is Sweet, Fruity and Floral. I find Toasted Malt, Butterkekse (German Butter Biscuits), Vanilla, Toffee, Heather-Honey, Straw, Grass, Fresh Pastry, Latte Macchiato, Charred Oak, Bourbon, Banana Ice Cream, Stewed Apple, Pineapple, Pear, Nectarine, Mandarin Peel, Lemon Juice, Cinnamon, light Pepper, light Aniseed and Mint.        

Palate: Bitter-Sweet and slightly Sharp with a few Mineral - and Sour notes as well. I find Toasted Barley, Toffee, Caramel, Vanilla, Heather-Honey, Oak, Grass, Straw, Melon, Lemon, Grapefruit, Sour Berries or Grapes, Wet Rocks, Cocoa Powder, Pepper, Ginger, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Apple-Vinegar, Menthol and light Licorice.  

Finish: Middle-Long, slightly Sharp and Bitter-Sweet. Quite Dry in the end and a tad too Bitter. I find Sweet Malt, Caramel, Toffee, Vanilla, Heather-Honey, Nut-Shells, Lemon/Grapefruit Juice, Grass, Charred Oak, Apple-Vinegar, Wet Rocks, Cocoa Powder, Pepper, Cinnamon, Ginger, Cardamon, Menthol and light Licorice.  

Rating: 82.5  

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 20.5 - Finish: 20 - Overall: 20.5 

Conclusion

This Glen Keith was distilled on the 1st of October, 1990 and bottled on the 28th of August 2012. It's not a bad Single Malt but I find it to be a little Aggressive and Edgy for a Speysider. The Alcohol is quite present. The Sweetness of the Fruit is clearly overpowered by the Bitterness of Wood - and Wood spice, most notably on the Palate and in the Finish. Not a perfect interaction between Cask and Spirit in my opinion.

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Whisky Review # 638

Country: Scotland
Region: Speyside
Brand: Strathmill 1990
Type: Single Malt Single Cask Whisky
Age: 21 Years
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 54.5%
Maturation:Re-Fill Sherry Butt (171 Bottles)  
Chill Filtration: No   
Price Range: Around 75 US Dollars. (August 2017)
Sample received from Tom in Germany. Many Thanks! 
Buying Advice: 😐 If you're into Wood and Spice Go for it! Price is okay!

Colour: Golden Amber (Natural Colour)

Nose: Mature Nose. Certainly not a Sherry Bomb though. The Refill Butt did leave some mild Sherry notes like Raisins, Marzipan and Nuts. The Oak is there of course but not at all in a dominant way. The Alcohol is reasonably integrated. I find Sweet Toasted Barley, Caramel, Toffee, Butterscotch, Vanilla, Heather-Honey, Straw, Grass, Citrus Peel, Cocoa Powder, Dried Apple and Pineapple, Dirt Road, Pastry, light Pepper, Cinnamon and Ginger. A hint of Espresso.     

Palate: Bitter-Sweet and Spicy with some Sour and Mineral notes as well. I find Toasted Barley, Butterscotch, Vanilla, Green Apple, Nectarine, Nuts, Dried Fruit (Raisins), Cocoa Powder, Pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg, light Aniseed, Lemon Peel, Grapefruit, Wet Rocks and Oak.    

Finish: Middle-Long, Bitter-Sweet, Spicy and Creamy. Quite Dry in the end. The Oak and Wood spice are more present now. I find Toasted Malt, Butterscotch, Treacle, Dried Fruit (Raisins), Hazelnuts, Straw, Green Apple, Nectarine, Dried Herbs, Lemon/Grapefruit Juice, light Ashes, Wet Rocks, Pepper, Nutmeg, light Aniseed, Ginger, Cardamom and Menthol. 

Rating: 82

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 20 - Finish: 20 - Overall: 20.5 

Conclusion

This Strathmill was distilled on the 4th of May 1990 and bottled on the 10th of April 2012. Although this Refill Sherry Butt was not the most active around, I still believe this Strathmill was bottled a couple of years too late. Unless you are an absolute fan of Wood and Wood spices on the Palate and in the Finish. For me personally it was a bit too much Bitter Oak and Nutmeg. The Strathmill spirit is mostly used in Blends like J&B. You don't find a lot of Single Malts around. I believe I can see why as the Spirit does not have sufficient personality to absorb 21 years in the cask. Drowned in Wood!  


Drinking Advice:
Due to the fact that I merely had small samples at my disposal, I only Nosed and Tasted these three Single Malts neat.

Jan van den Ende                                                                   August 28, 2017