Bunnahabhain Stiuireadair Review


“Rush Job”

Whisky Review # 646

Country: Scotland
Region: Islay
Brand: Bunnahabhain Stiuireadair
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: NAS 
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46.3%
Maturation: Sherry Casks   
Chill Filtration: No   
Price Range: US$ 40-55 (September 2017) 
Buying Advice: 😒Negative. Go for the 12 Years instead.

Colour: Light Golden (Natural Colour)

Nose: This is pretty young Whisky if you ask me. The high ABV can't hide that. I get images of a cowshed, the floor of which is covered with a mix of Musty Straw and Manure. I also get Refill Sherry casks that were treated with Sulphur. In short, I've nosed better Bunnahabhains in my time. The Alcohol is slightly Sharp as well. Be sure to give this Malt sufficient time in the glass before Nosing. After a while I find Toasted Cereals, Salted Caramel, Brown Sugar, Dried Fruit like Sultanas and Apricot, Nuts and Nutshells, Vanilla, Cocoa Powder, Heather-Honey, Plum Marmalade, Overripe, almost rotten Apples, Mushrooms, light Citrus, Bitter Tea and hints of Spices like Cloves and Cinnamon.

Visit May 2017

Palate: Young, Edgy, Hot and Bitter-Sweet with Toasted Cereals, Salty Caramel, Brown Sugar, Heather-Honey, light Vanilla, Dried Fruit like Plums and Sultanas, Nuts and Nutshells, Mandarin Juice, Cocoa Powder, Pepper, Cinnamon, Cloves, Cardamom, Herbal Tea, Refill Oak, Sulphur, Grappa and hints of Espresso and Tobacco.  

Finish: Rather Short, Bitter Sweet and slightly Hot, Sour and Sharp towards the Dry end. Some Sulphur and Metal as well. I also find Toasted Grain, Salty Caramel, Tea sweetened with Aspartame, Mandarin Juice, Lemon Peel, Dried Fruit like Plums and Sultanas, Bread Dough, Grass, Pepper, Cardamom, Refill Oak, Grappa and hints of Tobacco and Bitter Espresso.  

Drinking Advice:

I added a few drops of Water and on the Nose you get rid of most of the Alcohol and find some Creamy Malt and Caffe Latte. Palate and Finish don't improve in my opinion.

Rating: 79  

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 19.5 - Finish: 19.5 - Overall: 19.5


General Remarks:

🏣   The Distillery and Today's Whisky:

The Bunnahabhain distillery was founded in 1881 and is located on the isle of Islay, close to Port-Askaig. Since 2003 it is owned by Burn Stewart Distilleries, part of the South-African Distell Group Ltd. At the moment the distillery roughly produces 1,5 million liters per year. The core range consists of the 12, 18 and 25 Years as well as 2 peated expressions, the Toiteach and the Ceobanach. We last visited Bunnahabhain in May this year and were not impressed with the Tour, the Shop and the general outlook of the distillery. I'm pleased to report that very recently the owners have announced serious investments in the amount of 11 million Pounds. Improvements will be made both in infrastructure and in the production process. Everything will be ready by 2020 and I certainly would love to visit the distillery by then!

Stiuireadair (pronounced Stew-Rahdur) is the old Gaelic word for Helmsman and refers to the shoreline on the North-Eastern coast of Islay and the influence of the sea on the Bunnahabhain Whisky. This NAS expression has been released very recently, apparently to ease pressure on the dwindling stocks of the very popular 12 years. As such, it will probably not be added to the core range but then again you never know. The Stiuireadair is made with unpeated Malt.

Visit May 2017

🍷  The Spirit:

The distillery possesses two pairs of Stills with Lyne arms that either have a straight forward or slightly upwards angle. The Spirit is usually light bodied with Sweet Fruit and Nuts. The Water is both sourced from the River Margadadale (cooling) and Loch Staoisha (distilling).

Visit May 2017

🌲  The Wood:

The Stiuireadair matured in a mix of indifferent First - and Second Fill Sherry casks.

Drinking Experience: Below Average

Conclusion:

It's like someone ordered to quickly prepare a young Bunnahabhain and boost it with a high ABV, some indifferent Sherry casks and an unpronounceable Gaelic name. I know I sound quite harsh here but what can I do. This is not a very tasty Bunnahabhain and it's certainly no valid substitute for the 12 years. I fully understand the problem of rapidly dwindling stocks as a result of the increasing demand but this is not the correct way to solve the issue. Like I wrote above, the distillery looks neglected and it badly needs a face lift. I'm very glad that the owners are going to straighten that out. This Single Malt needs a face lift as well and I hope Bunnahabhain will address the issue. So we can all be proud of the Distillery and the Stiuireadair in 2020. For the time being however, the 12 Years is the better option by far.

Jan van den Ende                                                            September 25, 2017

Visit May 2017

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