Mortlach 14 Years Alexander's Way

”Ballad of a Thin Man”

Whisky Review # 911

Country: Scotland

Region: Speyside

Brand: Mortlach Alexander's Way

Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: 14 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 43.4%
Maturation: Mix of Refill Ex-Bourbon and Refill Ex-Sherry Casks
Chill Filtration: Yes
Price Range: US$ 60-80 (April 2021)

Sample provided by Mauricio from Brazil. Many thanks!

Price/Quality Ratio: Okay
Buying Advice: 👎 Too Thin and not representative for this distillery. 

Colour:

Amber (Probably Artificially Colored as the dark color of this Malt does not really combine with the weak Refill Cask impressions that I get).

Nose:

This is really Thin and almost Watery for a Mortlach. I wasn't expecting that at all! I suspect there were lots of 3rd Refill casks in the mix. There is some Fruit but there is an artificial ring to it. The Nose is mainly Sweet but there are Sour notes around as well. A slight Bitterness in the background. The Alcohol is noticeable. It actually smells younger than its 14 Years.

Main Aromas:

Musty Barley, Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Sour Cherries and Berries, Orange, Lemon, Artificially-Flavoured Candies (Apple, Pear, Banana), Slivovitz, Farm-Yard, Sawmill, Refill Oak, Ginger, Pepper and Cloves.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Demerara Sugar, Vanilla, Honey, Wax, Sultanas, Unripe Mango, Fresh Herbs (Mint), Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Leather, Tobacco and faint hints of Smoke & Munster Cheese.

Palate:

A good Springbank or Ledaig can be quite Dirty but they usually got the substance along with it. This Mortlach is slightly Dirty on the Palate as well but it's so Thin and Watery that it doesn't really work. The Palate is a mix of Bitter, Sweet & Sour notes. Medium-Dry. The Alcohol is noticeable. I find it totally disappointing.

Main Flavours:

Malted Barley, Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Yeast, Refill Oak, Apple-Vinegar, Seville Orange, Lemon Tea, Sour Berries, Tobacco, Mint, Pepper, Cinnamon, Ginger and Iron.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Honey, Vanilla, Dusty Earth, Wax, Grapefruit, Unripe Mango, Leather, Gooseberry Jam, Nutmeg, Cloves and hints of Licorice and Dairy.

Finish:

Short/Middle-Long, rather Thin, slightly Hot & presenting a rather high Acidity that I don't really care for. A mix of Sweet, Bitter and Sour notes. I find Toasted Cereals, Toffee, Salted Caramel, Grass and Straw, Refill Oak, Resin, Candle Wax, Seville Orange, Lemon, Grapefruit, Tobacco, Leather, Pepper, Ginger, Cloves, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Dried Fruit and a whisper of Smoke.

Drinking Advice:

No need to add Water to this Mortlach. It's Thin enough as it is.

Rating: 81

Nose: 21 - Taste: 20 - Finish: 19.5 - Overall: 20.5

Drinking Experience: Okay

Conclusion:

Mortlach was founded in 1823 by James Findlater and is located in Dufftown, Keith, Banffshire. It is owned by Diageo. The distillery had a cult status mainly because of the 16 Years Flora & Fauna. This expression was discontinued in 2014 however and replaced by a new range that consisted of the Rare Old, Special Strength, 18 Years & 25 years. All four were mainly matured in Ex-Bourbon Barrels and were launched in 50 cl bottles at rather high prices. This move was not appreciated by the fans and in 2018 Diageo launched a new core range that consists of the 12 Year old Wee Witchie, the 16 Year old Distiller's Dram and the 20 Year old Cowie's Blue Seal. The 14 Years Alexander's Way was added initially for Travel Retail only.

This Mortlach has been nicknamed Alexander's Way in honor of the former owner of the distillery Alexander Cowie. Thanks to him, Mortlach distills its spirit 2,81 times, a rather unique process called The Way.

I've had some good old Mortlach Malt in the past like this one from 1994. But the one I'm tasting today is a far cry from that one. Alexander's Way is presented in a very nice way but in reality it's a typical Travel Retail expression that can't count on good casks. It's not too expensive at least and that's a plus. But other than that it's a forgettable Mortlach expression that does not do justice at all to this otherwise fine distillery.

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                          April 21, 2021

 

Tormore 1988 (Sansibar)

”Country Comfort”

Whisky Review # 910

Country: Scotland
Region: Speyside

Brand: Tormore 1988

Type: Single Malt Single Cask Scotch Whisky - Distilled in 1988

Bottled: In 2016 by/for Sansibar Spirits Shop' Selection - Chinese Theater Mask
Age: 28 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 51.6% (Cask-Strength)
Maturation: Ex-Bourbon cask - 228 Bottles
Chill Filtration: No

Price Range: Around US$ 250 (April 2021)
Price/Quality Ratio: 👍Okay. At this age a Single Malt can't be cheap of course.
Buying Advice: 👍 A well-matured Speyside Malt. Bit on the Woody side though!

Colour:

Golden (Natural Color)

Nose:

A nice, slightly dusty, mature Nose with the Oak nicely lingering in the background. A bit of an old English country club image with Polished Old Furniture inviting you to have a Single Malt. I think you get the picture. The Nose is a mix of Sweet, Fruity, Sour and Floral notes. Quite Buttery as well. You wouldn't give it 28 years as there are still some Fresh Aromas around. The Alcohol is nicely integrated. It's a rather plesant combination!

Main Aromas:

Malted and Toasted Barley, Buttered Toast, Vanilla, Grass and Straw, Bounty Candy Bars, Charred Oak, Peach or Nectarine, Stewed Apples richly sprinkled with fresh Cinnamon, Polished Leather Upholstery, Tobacco, Orange-Milk Chocolate, Mint and Nutmeg.

  
Supportive Aroma Accents:

Salted Caramel, Honey, Marshmallow, Floral Soap, Dried Herbs, Grapefruit, Lemon, Hazelnuts, Dusty Road, Pepper and Meat-Extract.

Palate:

Thick and Buttery. It's been a while I found so much Butter in a Single Malt. On the Palate this Tormore presents a mix of Bitter, Sweet and Sour notes. The Years in the cask are telling now and the Alcohol is a bit more noticeable as well.

Main Flavours:

Malted and Toasted Barley, Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Bounty Candy Bars, Polished Old Leather, Tobacco, Seville-Orange, Charred Oak, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Pepper, Ginger, Aniseed, Mint, Meat-Extract and Licorice.

   
Supportive Flavour Accents:

Honey, Vanilla, Toffee, Grass and Straw, Hazelnut-Milk Chocolate, Marzipan, Fresh & Dried Herbs, Grapefruit, Lemon, Stewed Apples, Espresso, Nutmeg and Cloves.

Finish:

Middle-Long and Bitter-Sweet with increasing Bitterness towards the Medium-Dry end. You can certainly tell its age by now. Wood, Spices and Herbs are firmly in control at this point. I find Toasted Barley, Caramel, Vanilla, Honey, Marzipan, Grapefruit, Lemon, Seville-Orange, Tea, Fresh & Dried Herbs, Bounty Candy Bars, Stewed Apples, Leather, Tobacco, Charred Oak, Pepper, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Clove, Cardamom, Ginger, Mint, Licorice, Aniseed and Meat-Extract.

Drinking Advice:

I added a little Water and you will get additional ripe Fruit on the Nose (Nectarine, Peach). The Palate does not improve in my view and the Finish gets very Spicy and Hot. You can carefully add a few drops but don't overdo it. I prefer it Neat.

Rating: 86.5

Nose: 22.5 - Taste: 21.5  - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5

Drinking Experience Neat:

Good

Conclusion:

Tormore is certainly a relatively new distillery and was founded in 1958 by Schenley Int. Chivas Brothers (Pernod Ricard) acquired the distillery in 2005 when it took over Allied Domecq. It is located in Grantown-on-Spey (Morayshire). The distillery has a production capacity of 4.8 million litres. Most of the Tormore Spirit is used in Blends like Ballentine's, Long John, Cream of the Barley and Chivas. The core range merely consists of the 14 and 16 Years.

Sansibar Whisky is a German Indie bottler founded by Jens Drewitz and others who taste and hand-select almost all casks they buy at the distilleries.

I've had a few other old Tormore Indies in the past and they are all quite good in my opinion. This Sansibar is a bit on the Woody side and might have overstayed its time in the cask somewhat. But it's still a very nice almost farm-made Single Malt that really reminds me of the warmth of Good Old British Country Comfort. The sort of hotel or club that Mr. Bean would have liked!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                           April 14, 2021

Glenglassaugh 2011

 

”Half a Boy and Half a Man”

Whisky Review # 909

Country: Scotland
Region: Highlands

Brand: Glenglassaugh 2011 - Bottled at Distillery on May 27, 2019

Type: Single Malt Single Cask Scotch Whisky - Distilled on November 20, 2011
Age: Around 7.5 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 58.6% (Cask-Strength)
Maturation: Marsala Hogshead - Cask # 1374
Chill Filtration: No

Price Range: US$ 80-90 (0,5 ltr) - April 2021
Price/Quality Ratio: 😐 Borderline okay for such a Young Whisky.
Buying Advice:😐Good Nose but Palate and Finish are Young and Unsettled.

Colour:

Deep Amber, almost Brown (Natural Color)

Nose:

Sweet, Herbal, Spicy. This is Christmas in a glass. Despite the high ABV, the Alcohol is nicely integrated. In general it feels like this Single Malt had much more cask time than its roughly 8 Years. The Marsala cask really left its mark but in this case that seems to work well.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Toasted Barley, German Butter Biscuits. Molasses, Brown Sugar, Marzipan, Slightly Sour Red Berries and Cherries, Sweet Red Wine, Cooked Apples spiced with Cinnamon and Nutmeg, Dried Herbs, Oak, Candied Orange, Ginger and Cocoa.

  
Supportive Aroma Accents:

Honey, Wax, Dough, Caramel, Vanilla, Rum-Soaked Raisins, Plum-Jam, Peach-Flavored Yogurt, Nectarine, Grapefruit, Grass and Straw, Leather, Tobacco, Pepper, Cloves and Mint.

   

Filling the Bottle!

Palate:

Both the Alcohol and the relative Youth of this Glenglassaugh become more visible. It's more Rough and Unsettled than the soft Nose would want you to believe. Mostly Bitter-Sweet with a few Sour notes as well.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Toasted Barley, Brown Sugar, Molasses, Butter, slighty Sour Red Berries and Cherries, Marzipan, Candied Orange, Red Wine, Dark Chocolate, Dried Herbs, Mint, Oak, Pepper, Nutmeg, Ginger and Licorice.

   
Supportive Flavour Accents:

Honey, Toffee, Vanilla, Wax, Resin, Grapefruit, Lemon, Plum Jam, Peach/Apricot- flavored Yogurt, Leather, Tobacco, Cinnamon and Cloves.

Finish:

Middle-Long. Mainly Bitter-Sweet with a few Sour notes for necessary balance. Quite Dry towards the end. The Alcohol is much more noticeable now and the Marsala cask can't hide the Youth of this spirit anymore. The Finish is a bit Unsettled and Edgy. I find Toasted Barley, Burnt Caramel, Molasses, Toffee, Vanilla, Honey, Oak, Rum-Soaked Raisins, Resin, Dried Herbs, Orange Peel, Grapefruit, Stewed Apple, Dark Chocolate, Espresso, Red Wine & Red Fruit, Tobacco, Leather, Licorice, Pepper, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Cloves, Menthol and Licorice.

Drinking Advice:

I added a little Water and while that doesn't significantly change the Aroma and Flavor profile, it does calm down this Single Malt. You can try it out both ways but in this case a few drops can't hurt!

Rating: 85

Nose: 22 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5

Drinking Experience Neat:

Good

Conclusion:

The Glenglassaugh Distillery is located in Portsoy, Banffshire and was founded in 1875 by James Moir and his two nephews William and Alexander Morrison. In 1892 the distillery was sold to Highland Distillers and it remained in their possession until 2008. It was closed three times in its history, most recently between 1986 and 2008. In the year 2008 it was revived by the Dutch Scaent Group. Finally, in 2013, Glenglassaugh was bought by The BenRiach Distillery Company that also operates BenRiach and GlenDronach. The core range consists of the Revival, Evolution and Torfa. The distillery produces around 800.000 litres annually. On May 27, 2019 we visited the distillery and did a very nice private tour. At the end of the visit I bottled a 0,5 litre bottle directly from the cask. It was distilled in November 2011 and did mature in a Marsala Hogshead. Just writing this brings back happy memories and a smile to my face. The location of the distillery is just breath-taking close to the bay and I highly recommend a visit.

Marsala is a fortified Italian wine made close to the city of Marsala on the island of Sicily. It's a protected brand name.

This Glenglassaugh is not a bad Single Malt and the Marsala cask works well here. The Nose is quite good and doesn't give its Youth away. But Palate and Finish do and clearly show that this Glenglassaugh needed more cask time. So it's Half a Boy and Half a Man as Nick Lowe once sang. I think that 10 years in good Ex-Bourbon casks and a two year Finish in a Marsala cask would  have really done the trick. As it is, it's okay and Sherry-Bomb lovers might cherish this one too. Personally, I really loved the whole Glenglassaugh experience but I would not buy another bottle of this specific Single Malt.

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                            April 7, 2021

Ardbeg Grooves

”Let’s Groove”

Whisky Review # 908

Country: Scotland
Region: Islay

Brand: Ardbeg Grooves - Limited Edition Feis Isle 2018

Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Age: NAS

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46%
Maturation: A mix of Ex- Bourbon and Portuguese Ex-Wine Casks
Chill Filtration: No

Price Range: US$ 150-230 (March 2021)
Price/Quality Ratio: 👎Too expensive for such a Young, Experimental Ardbeg
Buying Advice: 😑 It's not bad and you might like it but it leaves me stone-cold! 

Colour:

Dark Amber (Natural Color)

Nose:

A mix of familiar Ardbeg Coastal/Medicinal Aromas & Sweet Red Wine casks. Herbs & Spices are there as well. It's a Young Whisky for sure and the Alcohol is slightly noticeable. It's certainly interesting but I don't think it's the direction I want Ardbeg to take in the future. The Nose leaves me a bit confused actually and I'm not quite sure what to think of it. It's not bad though.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Malted Barley, Slightly Burnt Buttered Toast, Cold Smoke, Peat (Wet Clay), Ashes, Soot, Sweet Dark Red Fruit, Lemon, Smoked Pork, Paprika Schnitzel served with Fresh Coriander and Lemon, Leather, Oak Char, Pepper, Ginger and Menthol.   
    
Supportive Aroma Accents:

Heather-Honey, Vanilla, Marzipan, Tar, Iodine, Mix of Straw and Cow Manure, Band-Aids, Wet Rocks and Sand, Resin, Rum-Soaked Raisins, Seville Orange, Polished Old Wood, Green Apple, Cinnamon, Cloves and hints of Rubber and strong Espresso.   

Palate:

Quite Sweet and a little Young and on the Thin side. A few Bitter, Salty & Sour notes for balance. It's okay I guess but I'm not getting Into the Groove!

Main Flavours:

Sweet Malted Barley, Salted Caramel, Peat (Wet Clay), Cold Smoke, Ashes, Dark Red Fruit, Cherry-Flavored Cough Syrup, Leather, Fish and Shell-Fish on the BBQ, Lemon, Green Apple, Charred Oak, Pepper, Ginger, Licorice and Menthol.

   
Supportive Flavour Accents:

Heather-Honey, Vanilla, Soot, Tar, Iodine, Band-Aids, Resin, Seville Orange, Rum-soaked Raisins, Coriander, Smoked Paprika Powder, Mix of Straw and Cow Manure, Herbal Tea, Cinnamon and Cloves.

Finish:

Middle-Long and Bitter-Sweet. Increasingly Bitter, Dry, Salty and Ashy towards the end. I find Sweet Malted Barley, Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Peat (Wet Clay), Cigar Ashes, Cold Smoke, Soot, Tar, Leather, Charred Oak, Dusty Cellar, Wet Rocks and Sand, Smoked Nuts, Bacon on the BBQ, slightly Sour Red Wine, Herbal Tea, Cocoa Powder, Lemon, Green Apple, Cardboard Office Boxes, Resin, Rum-Soaked Raisins, Pepper, Ginger, Cinnamon, Menthol and Licorice. Hints of Strong Espresso & Iron.

Drinking Advice:

Added Water spoils this Ardbeg.

Rating: 85

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21

Drinking Experience Neat:

Good but not my kinda thing.

Conclusion:

The current Distillery was founded in 1815 by John MacDougall, close to the little town of Port Ellen on the island of Islay. In 1997 the distillery was bought by The Glenmorangie Company (part of French based Moet Hennessy) from the previous owners Allied Distillers. This company closed Ardbeg between 1981 and 1989 and only produced yearly during 2 months between 1989 and 1997. As a result, Ardbeg is lacking older stocks and is almost forced to launch Limited Editions while maintaining a very limited core range that consists of the 10 Years, Corryvreckan, An Oa, Traigh Bhan, Wee Beastie and Uigeadail. Like Glenmorangie, Ardbeg likes to experiment with Wood, Toasting and NAS expressions. In 2020 Ardbeg produced around 1,4 million liters of Alcohol.

Ardbeg Grooves was released on the occasion of Ardbeg Day 2018. Part of the Malt used to make Grooves was matured in Red Wine casks that were heavily charred resulting in heavy grooves in the surface of the wood.

People that follow my reviews on a regular basis know that I'm always in for new ways of maturing Whisky. So I will applaud Ardbeg's work and thinking in creating the Grooves. And I'm sure there will be people who will like it despite the fact that the price is very steep for such a Young Whisky. But it doesn't work for me although it's not a bad Single Malt. And I'm a big Ardbeg fan! But to me the Grooves strays too far from everything I love about Ardbeg. And why would I buy an Ardbeg that isn't an Ardbeg. Innovation is good when it adds value to the distillery character. In my opinion that's not the case here. Look forward to hear your opinion!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                         March 31, 2021

Aultmore 21 Years

”The Aultmore Down the Road” 

Whisky Review # 907

Country: Scotland
Region: Speyside

Brand: Aultmore

Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky - Batch 00107
Age: 21 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46%
Maturation: Refill Sherry Hogsheads
Chill Filtration: No

Sample provided by Mauricio from Brazil. Many Thanks!
Price Range: US$ 200-240 (March 2021).
Price/Quality Ratio: 👎 Too expensive for what it offers.
Buying Advice: 😐 The Nose is nice but Palate and Finish do not quite convince.

Colour:

Golden (Natural Color)

Nose:

Sweet, Pleasant, Uncomplicated Nose. You certainly wouldn't give it 21 Years. Easy-going casks. Quite Fruity & Buttery. Be sure to give it some time in the glass before Nosing.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Barley, German Butter Biscuits, Vanilla, Grass and Straw, Caffe Latte, Fresh Herbs, Lemon Ice Tea, Fresh Green Apples, Oak, Pizza Dough and Ginger.
    
Supportive Aroma Accents:

Heather-Honey, Butterscotch, Caramel, Wax, Bounty Bars, Peach-Flavoured Yogurt, Meadow Flowers, Pear drops, Nuts, Forest Floor, Bourbon, Ginger and Wet Stones.

Palate:

A bit more Hot and Aggressive than the Nose would like you to believe. Oak and Spices come to the front in strength. A mix of Bitter, Sweet and Sour notes with a light Metallic feel to it.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Vanilla, Grass and Straw, Fresh Herbs, Green Apple, Lemon, Grapefruit, Oak, Cinnamon, Pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg, Menthol and Licorice.   
Supportive Flavour Accents:

Heather-Honey, Butterscotch, Marzipan, Wax, Nectarine, Banana, Seville-Orange, Bounty Bars, Cloves, Bourbon, Slivovitz and Pizza Dough.

Finish:

Middle-Long, Bitter Sweet & slightly Hot. Oak and Spices are more noticeable at this stage. A few Sour notes as well. The Bitterness increases towards the end and that's a pity. It takes a little while before your palate is ready to take another sip. I find Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Vanilla, Caramel, Honey-Nut Cereals, Vanilla, Grass & Straw, Green Apple, Lemon, Bitter Grapefruit, Caffe Latte, Pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg, Cloves, Cinnamon, Menthol, Licorice, Bourbon, Oak and a little Marzipan.

Drinking Advice:

No need to add Water. The ABV is spot on.

Rating: 85

Nose: 22 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 20.5 - Overall: 21

Drinking Experience Neat:

Good but not really shining.

Conclusion:

The Aultmore Distillery was founded in 1896 by Alexander Edward. He had to sell it in 1923 to John Dewar & Sons. Dewar currently belongs to the Bacardi Group who bought it from Diageo in 1998. Most of Aultmore's Spirit goes into the Dewar's White Label, the #1 selling Scotch in the USA. Beats Me! In 2014 the core range was reviewed and nowadays include the 12, 18 and 21 Years, the latter originally only for Travel Retail. We almost managed to visit the distillery during our last tour in Scotland in 2019 but in the end it didn't work out. We did get to sample a few Aultmores during a fine dinner in the village of Oldmeldrum, home to the Glen Garion Distillery.

I had a few mature Independently Bottled Aultmores before and quite liked them. I was therefore eager to try this 21-year old that's part of today's core range. It did not quite convince me though. It started well with the unpretending but pleasant Nose but Palate and Finish left to be desired. A bit too much Heat and Bitterness for my taste. I must blame the casks for that. This Aultmore is not a bad Single Malt mind you but with a little extra care it could have been so much better and would have justified its price. As it is I would certainly recommend to try a sample first before deciding to buy a full bottle.

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                         March 24, 2021