Highland Park The Light

”I Saw The Light (I Think!)”

Whisky Review # 912

Country: Scotland
Region: Highlands - Islands - Orkney

Brand: Highland Park The Light

Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky - Limited Edition - 28.000 bottles
Age: 17 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 52.9%
Maturation: Refill Ex-Bourbon Casks
Chill Filtration: No
Price Range: US$ 190-260 (April 2021)
Price/Quality Ratio: 👎Way too expensive for what it offers.
Buying Advice: 😐I'm too confused to give a buying advice.

Colour:

Light Gold (Natural Colour)

Nose:

Be sure to give this Highland Park a little time in the glass before Nosing and take care not to stick your Nose in the middle of your glass as there is some Alcohol to be found there. I also get a bit of this "West-European" New Oak Varnish and that is strange as The Light matured in Refill Ex-Bourbon casks. And not the most active ones by the way. The Nose is slightly on the Thin side and I'm starting to wonder if the sample I bought really contains The Light. There's hardly any Smoke around as well. My supplier is very reliable (Whiskysite Netherlands) and I must assume I got the correct sample though. Perhaps I'm confused by the fact that Highland Park usually uses Sherried Wood for maturation. In any case I wouldn't give it 17 Years!

Main Aromas:

Sweet Barley, Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Grass and Straw, Pears and Green Apples, Dried and Fresh Herbs, (New) Oak, Sour Fruit (Gooseberries, Plums, Grapefruit, Lemon), Cinnamon and Mint.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Heather Honey, Yeast, Campfire Smoke, Earth, Wet Rocks, Seville Orange, Floral Soap, Nectarine, Mango and Ginger.

Palate:

On the Palate, The Light shows a bit of character with a mix of Sweet, Sour & Bitter notes. Again, it doesn't feel at all as a fully matured 17 Year-old Single Malt. I'm Going Slightly Mad as Freddie Mercury used to sing. Am I drinking too much Whisky or what! Well it is what it is or at least I hope it is. The Alcohol is quite strong.

Main Flavours:

Toasted Barley, Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Sour Fruit like Gooseberries, Lemon, Green Apple, Grapefruit and Lemon, Oak, Pepper, Cinnamon, Ginger, Nutmeg, Cloves and Mint.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Heather-Honey, Buttered Toast, Banana, Dusty Track, Toasted Nuts, Dry Earth, Campfire Smoke, Leather, Soot, Licorice, Dried & Fresh Herbs, Pear and Nectarine.

Finish:

Middle-Long, Sweet, Spicy and slightly Hot. The Alcohol is certainly present. Some Sour notes as well and a light Bitterness towards the Medium-Dry end. I find Toasted & Malted Barley, Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Resin, Toasted Nuts, Lemon, Seville Orange, Grapefruit, Gooseberries, Burnt Heather, Dusty Track, Candle Wax, Campfire Smoke, Peat, Green Apple, Oak, Fresh and Dried Herbs, Pepper, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Cloves, Ginger, Menthol and Soot.

Drinking Advice:

Added Water does not improve The Light.

Rating: 83

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 20.5 - Overall: 20.5

Drinking Experience Neat: Okay/Good

Conclusion:

The distillery was founded in 1798 by David Robertson. It is located in the small town of Kirkwall on the isle of Orkney. Orkney is still quite strongly influenced by its Viking past & the distillery has increasingly used this past as a rather successful marketing tool. Highland Park currently produces around 2.5 million litres of Alcohol & is owned since 1997 by the Edrington Group. The core range basically consists of the 10 (Viking Scars), the 12 (Viking Honour), the 18 (Viking Pride), the 21, 25, 30 and 40 years, Dragon Legend and Viking Pride.

We visited Highland Park in May 2019 and I thoroughly enjoyed the visit despite the terrible weather. Orkney is a special place and I understand the tradition and the bond with the Viking ancestors. It's such a pity that the distillery regularly distorts this picture with mediocre, expensive "Cult" Single Malts based on that theme.

The Light, representing Spring & Summer was launched in 2017 together with The Dark, representing Autumn and Winter. The latter matured in Ex-Sherry Wood.

I can't remember having ever been so confused when tasting a Single Malt for Best Shot. Usually I know what to expect more or less based on experience. But not in this case. For the very first time I really doubted the contents of my little sample bottle. Is this really a 17 Year-old Single Malt Highland Park? If so I'm disappointed. The principal reason is the lack of quality of the refill casks that didn't give a lot of additional character to the Spirit. The low level of Peat/Smoke and the ever present Alcohol did not help as well. It didn't feel like a 17 Year old Malt. It's the first time I review a HP that matured in Refill Ex-Bourbon casks so that might be the problem as well. I simply did not get what I expected. In any case I must assume that the sample indeed contained The Light and that being so this Single Malt simply does not work for me. I didn't see The Light at the end of the tunnel!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                            April 28,2021

All pictures were taken during our visit in May 2019

Mortlach 14 Years Alexander's Way

”Ballad of a Thin Man”

Whisky Review # 911

Country: Scotland

Region: Speyside

Brand: Mortlach Alexander's Way

Type: Single Malt Whisky
Age: 14 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 43.4%
Maturation: Mix of Refill Ex-Bourbon and Refill Ex-Sherry Casks
Chill Filtration: Yes
Price Range: US$ 60-80 (April 2021)

Sample provided by Mauricio from Brazil. Many thanks!

Price/Quality Ratio: Okay
Buying Advice: 👎 Too Thin and not representative for this distillery. 

Colour:

Amber (Probably Artificially Colored as the dark color of this Malt does not really combine with the weak Refill Cask impressions that I get).

Nose:

This is really Thin and almost Watery for a Mortlach. I wasn't expecting that at all! I suspect there were lots of 3rd Refill casks in the mix. There is some Fruit but there is an artificial ring to it. The Nose is mainly Sweet but there are Sour notes around as well. A slight Bitterness in the background. The Alcohol is noticeable. It actually smells younger than its 14 Years.

Main Aromas:

Musty Barley, Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Sour Cherries and Berries, Orange, Lemon, Artificially-Flavoured Candies (Apple, Pear, Banana), Slivovitz, Farm-Yard, Sawmill, Refill Oak, Ginger, Pepper and Cloves.

Supportive Aroma Accents:

Demerara Sugar, Vanilla, Honey, Wax, Sultanas, Unripe Mango, Fresh Herbs (Mint), Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Leather, Tobacco and faint hints of Smoke & Munster Cheese.

Palate:

A good Springbank or Ledaig can be quite Dirty but they usually got the substance along with it. This Mortlach is slightly Dirty on the Palate as well but it's so Thin and Watery that it doesn't really work. The Palate is a mix of Bitter, Sweet & Sour notes. Medium-Dry. The Alcohol is noticeable. I find it totally disappointing.

Main Flavours:

Malted Barley, Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Yeast, Refill Oak, Apple-Vinegar, Seville Orange, Lemon Tea, Sour Berries, Tobacco, Mint, Pepper, Cinnamon, Ginger and Iron.

Supportive Flavour Accents:

Honey, Vanilla, Dusty Earth, Wax, Grapefruit, Unripe Mango, Leather, Gooseberry Jam, Nutmeg, Cloves and hints of Licorice and Dairy.

Finish:

Short/Middle-Long, rather Thin, slightly Hot & presenting a rather high Acidity that I don't really care for. A mix of Sweet, Bitter and Sour notes. I find Toasted Cereals, Toffee, Salted Caramel, Grass and Straw, Refill Oak, Resin, Candle Wax, Seville Orange, Lemon, Grapefruit, Tobacco, Leather, Pepper, Ginger, Cloves, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Dried Fruit and a whisper of Smoke.

Drinking Advice:

No need to add Water to this Mortlach. It's Thin enough as it is.

Rating: 81

Nose: 21 - Taste: 20 - Finish: 19.5 - Overall: 20.5

Drinking Experience: Okay

Conclusion:

Mortlach was founded in 1823 by James Findlater and is located in Dufftown, Keith, Banffshire. It is owned by Diageo. The distillery had a cult status mainly because of the 16 Years Flora & Fauna. This expression was discontinued in 2014 however and replaced by a new range that consisted of the Rare Old, Special Strength, 18 Years & 25 years. All four were mainly matured in Ex-Bourbon Barrels and were launched in 50 cl bottles at rather high prices. This move was not appreciated by the fans and in 2018 Diageo launched a new core range that consists of the 12 Year old Wee Witchie, the 16 Year old Distiller's Dram and the 20 Year old Cowie's Blue Seal. The 14 Years Alexander's Way was added initially for Travel Retail only.

This Mortlach has been nicknamed Alexander's Way in honor of the former owner of the distillery Alexander Cowie. Thanks to him, Mortlach distills its spirit 2,81 times, a rather unique process called The Way.

I've had some good old Mortlach Malt in the past like this one from 1994. But the one I'm tasting today is a far cry from that one. Alexander's Way is presented in a very nice way but in reality it's a typical Travel Retail expression that can't count on good casks. It's not too expensive at least and that's a plus. But other than that it's a forgettable Mortlach expression that does not do justice at all to this otherwise fine distillery.

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                          April 21, 2021

 

Tormore 1988 (Sansibar)

”Country Comfort”

Whisky Review # 910

Country: Scotland
Region: Speyside

Brand: Tormore 1988

Type: Single Malt Single Cask Scotch Whisky - Distilled in 1988

Bottled: In 2016 by/for Sansibar Spirits Shop' Selection - Chinese Theater Mask
Age: 28 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 51.6% (Cask-Strength)
Maturation: Ex-Bourbon cask - 228 Bottles
Chill Filtration: No

Price Range: Around US$ 250 (April 2021)
Price/Quality Ratio: 👍Okay. At this age a Single Malt can't be cheap of course.
Buying Advice: 👍 A well-matured Speyside Malt. Bit on the Woody side though!

Colour:

Golden (Natural Color)

Nose:

A nice, slightly dusty, mature Nose with the Oak nicely lingering in the background. A bit of an old English country club image with Polished Old Furniture inviting you to have a Single Malt. I think you get the picture. The Nose is a mix of Sweet, Fruity, Sour and Floral notes. Quite Buttery as well. You wouldn't give it 28 years as there are still some Fresh Aromas around. The Alcohol is nicely integrated. It's a rather plesant combination!

Main Aromas:

Malted and Toasted Barley, Buttered Toast, Vanilla, Grass and Straw, Bounty Candy Bars, Charred Oak, Peach or Nectarine, Stewed Apples richly sprinkled with fresh Cinnamon, Polished Leather Upholstery, Tobacco, Orange-Milk Chocolate, Mint and Nutmeg.

  
Supportive Aroma Accents:

Salted Caramel, Honey, Marshmallow, Floral Soap, Dried Herbs, Grapefruit, Lemon, Hazelnuts, Dusty Road, Pepper and Meat-Extract.

Palate:

Thick and Buttery. It's been a while I found so much Butter in a Single Malt. On the Palate this Tormore presents a mix of Bitter, Sweet and Sour notes. The Years in the cask are telling now and the Alcohol is a bit more noticeable as well.

Main Flavours:

Malted and Toasted Barley, Buttered Toast, Salted Caramel, Bounty Candy Bars, Polished Old Leather, Tobacco, Seville-Orange, Charred Oak, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Pepper, Ginger, Aniseed, Mint, Meat-Extract and Licorice.

   
Supportive Flavour Accents:

Honey, Vanilla, Toffee, Grass and Straw, Hazelnut-Milk Chocolate, Marzipan, Fresh & Dried Herbs, Grapefruit, Lemon, Stewed Apples, Espresso, Nutmeg and Cloves.

Finish:

Middle-Long and Bitter-Sweet with increasing Bitterness towards the Medium-Dry end. You can certainly tell its age by now. Wood, Spices and Herbs are firmly in control at this point. I find Toasted Barley, Caramel, Vanilla, Honey, Marzipan, Grapefruit, Lemon, Seville-Orange, Tea, Fresh & Dried Herbs, Bounty Candy Bars, Stewed Apples, Leather, Tobacco, Charred Oak, Pepper, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Clove, Cardamom, Ginger, Mint, Licorice, Aniseed and Meat-Extract.

Drinking Advice:

I added a little Water and you will get additional ripe Fruit on the Nose (Nectarine, Peach). The Palate does not improve in my view and the Finish gets very Spicy and Hot. You can carefully add a few drops but don't overdo it. I prefer it Neat.

Rating: 86.5

Nose: 22.5 - Taste: 21.5  - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5

Drinking Experience Neat:

Good

Conclusion:

Tormore is certainly a relatively new distillery and was founded in 1958 by Schenley Int. Chivas Brothers (Pernod Ricard) acquired the distillery in 2005 when it took over Allied Domecq. It is located in Grantown-on-Spey (Morayshire). The distillery has a production capacity of 4.8 million litres. Most of the Tormore Spirit is used in Blends like Ballentine's, Long John, Cream of the Barley and Chivas. The core range merely consists of the 14 and 16 Years.

Sansibar Whisky is a German Indie bottler founded by Jens Drewitz and others who taste and hand-select almost all casks they buy at the distilleries.

I've had a few other old Tormore Indies in the past and they are all quite good in my opinion. This Sansibar is a bit on the Woody side and might have overstayed its time in the cask somewhat. But it's still a very nice almost farm-made Single Malt that really reminds me of the warmth of Good Old British Country Comfort. The sort of hotel or club that Mr. Bean would have liked!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                           April 14, 2021

Glenglassaugh 2011

 

”Half a Boy and Half a Man”

Whisky Review # 909

Country: Scotland
Region: Highlands

Brand: Glenglassaugh 2011 - Bottled at Distillery on May 27, 2019

Type: Single Malt Single Cask Scotch Whisky - Distilled on November 20, 2011
Age: Around 7.5 Years

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 58.6% (Cask-Strength)
Maturation: Marsala Hogshead - Cask # 1374
Chill Filtration: No

Price Range: US$ 80-90 (0,5 ltr) - April 2021
Price/Quality Ratio: 😐 Borderline okay for such a Young Whisky.
Buying Advice:😐Good Nose but Palate and Finish are Young and Unsettled.

Colour:

Deep Amber, almost Brown (Natural Color)

Nose:

Sweet, Herbal, Spicy. This is Christmas in a glass. Despite the high ABV, the Alcohol is nicely integrated. In general it feels like this Single Malt had much more cask time than its roughly 8 Years. The Marsala cask really left its mark but in this case that seems to work well.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Toasted Barley, German Butter Biscuits. Molasses, Brown Sugar, Marzipan, Slightly Sour Red Berries and Cherries, Sweet Red Wine, Cooked Apples spiced with Cinnamon and Nutmeg, Dried Herbs, Oak, Candied Orange, Ginger and Cocoa.

  
Supportive Aroma Accents:

Honey, Wax, Dough, Caramel, Vanilla, Rum-Soaked Raisins, Plum-Jam, Peach-Flavored Yogurt, Nectarine, Grapefruit, Grass and Straw, Leather, Tobacco, Pepper, Cloves and Mint.

   

Filling the Bottle!

Palate:

Both the Alcohol and the relative Youth of this Glenglassaugh become more visible. It's more Rough and Unsettled than the soft Nose would want you to believe. Mostly Bitter-Sweet with a few Sour notes as well.

Main Flavours:

Sweet Toasted Barley, Brown Sugar, Molasses, Butter, slighty Sour Red Berries and Cherries, Marzipan, Candied Orange, Red Wine, Dark Chocolate, Dried Herbs, Mint, Oak, Pepper, Nutmeg, Ginger and Licorice.

   
Supportive Flavour Accents:

Honey, Toffee, Vanilla, Wax, Resin, Grapefruit, Lemon, Plum Jam, Peach/Apricot- flavored Yogurt, Leather, Tobacco, Cinnamon and Cloves.

Finish:

Middle-Long. Mainly Bitter-Sweet with a few Sour notes for necessary balance. Quite Dry towards the end. The Alcohol is much more noticeable now and the Marsala cask can't hide the Youth of this spirit anymore. The Finish is a bit Unsettled and Edgy. I find Toasted Barley, Burnt Caramel, Molasses, Toffee, Vanilla, Honey, Oak, Rum-Soaked Raisins, Resin, Dried Herbs, Orange Peel, Grapefruit, Stewed Apple, Dark Chocolate, Espresso, Red Wine & Red Fruit, Tobacco, Leather, Licorice, Pepper, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Cloves, Menthol and Licorice.

Drinking Advice:

I added a little Water and while that doesn't significantly change the Aroma and Flavor profile, it does calm down this Single Malt. You can try it out both ways but in this case a few drops can't hurt!

Rating: 85

Nose: 22 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21.5

Drinking Experience Neat:

Good

Conclusion:

The Glenglassaugh Distillery is located in Portsoy, Banffshire and was founded in 1875 by James Moir and his two nephews William and Alexander Morrison. In 1892 the distillery was sold to Highland Distillers and it remained in their possession until 2008. It was closed three times in its history, most recently between 1986 and 2008. In the year 2008 it was revived by the Dutch Scaent Group. Finally, in 2013, Glenglassaugh was bought by The BenRiach Distillery Company that also operates BenRiach and GlenDronach. The core range consists of the Revival, Evolution and Torfa. The distillery produces around 800.000 litres annually. On May 27, 2019 we visited the distillery and did a very nice private tour. At the end of the visit I bottled a 0,5 litre bottle directly from the cask. It was distilled in November 2011 and did mature in a Marsala Hogshead. Just writing this brings back happy memories and a smile to my face. The location of the distillery is just breath-taking close to the bay and I highly recommend a visit.

Marsala is a fortified Italian wine made close to the city of Marsala on the island of Sicily. It's a protected brand name.

This Glenglassaugh is not a bad Single Malt and the Marsala cask works well here. The Nose is quite good and doesn't give its Youth away. But Palate and Finish do and clearly show that this Glenglassaugh needed more cask time. So it's Half a Boy and Half a Man as Nick Lowe once sang. I think that 10 years in good Ex-Bourbon casks and a two year Finish in a Marsala cask would  have really done the trick. As it is, it's okay and Sherry-Bomb lovers might cherish this one too. Personally, I really loved the whole Glenglassaugh experience but I would not buy another bottle of this specific Single Malt.

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                            April 7, 2021

Ardbeg Grooves

”Let’s Groove”

Whisky Review # 908

Country: Scotland
Region: Islay

Brand: Ardbeg Grooves - Limited Edition Feis Isle 2018

Type: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Age: NAS

Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 46%
Maturation: A mix of Ex- Bourbon and Portuguese Ex-Wine Casks
Chill Filtration: No

Price Range: US$ 150-230 (March 2021)
Price/Quality Ratio: 👎Too expensive for such a Young, Experimental Ardbeg
Buying Advice: 😑 It's not bad and you might like it but it leaves me stone-cold! 

Colour:

Dark Amber (Natural Color)

Nose:

A mix of familiar Ardbeg Coastal/Medicinal Aromas & Sweet Red Wine casks. Herbs & Spices are there as well. It's a Young Whisky for sure and the Alcohol is slightly noticeable. It's certainly interesting but I don't think it's the direction I want Ardbeg to take in the future. The Nose leaves me a bit confused actually and I'm not quite sure what to think of it. It's not bad though.

Main Aromas:

Sweet Malted Barley, Slightly Burnt Buttered Toast, Cold Smoke, Peat (Wet Clay), Ashes, Soot, Sweet Dark Red Fruit, Lemon, Smoked Pork, Paprika Schnitzel served with Fresh Coriander and Lemon, Leather, Oak Char, Pepper, Ginger and Menthol.   
    
Supportive Aroma Accents:

Heather-Honey, Vanilla, Marzipan, Tar, Iodine, Mix of Straw and Cow Manure, Band-Aids, Wet Rocks and Sand, Resin, Rum-Soaked Raisins, Seville Orange, Polished Old Wood, Green Apple, Cinnamon, Cloves and hints of Rubber and strong Espresso.   

Palate:

Quite Sweet and a little Young and on the Thin side. A few Bitter, Salty & Sour notes for balance. It's okay I guess but I'm not getting Into the Groove!

Main Flavours:

Sweet Malted Barley, Salted Caramel, Peat (Wet Clay), Cold Smoke, Ashes, Dark Red Fruit, Cherry-Flavored Cough Syrup, Leather, Fish and Shell-Fish on the BBQ, Lemon, Green Apple, Charred Oak, Pepper, Ginger, Licorice and Menthol.

   
Supportive Flavour Accents:

Heather-Honey, Vanilla, Soot, Tar, Iodine, Band-Aids, Resin, Seville Orange, Rum-soaked Raisins, Coriander, Smoked Paprika Powder, Mix of Straw and Cow Manure, Herbal Tea, Cinnamon and Cloves.

Finish:

Middle-Long and Bitter-Sweet. Increasingly Bitter, Dry, Salty and Ashy towards the end. I find Sweet Malted Barley, Salted Caramel, Vanilla, Peat (Wet Clay), Cigar Ashes, Cold Smoke, Soot, Tar, Leather, Charred Oak, Dusty Cellar, Wet Rocks and Sand, Smoked Nuts, Bacon on the BBQ, slightly Sour Red Wine, Herbal Tea, Cocoa Powder, Lemon, Green Apple, Cardboard Office Boxes, Resin, Rum-Soaked Raisins, Pepper, Ginger, Cinnamon, Menthol and Licorice. Hints of Strong Espresso & Iron.

Drinking Advice:

Added Water spoils this Ardbeg.

Rating: 85

Nose: 21.5 - Taste: 21.5 - Finish: 21 - Overall: 21

Drinking Experience Neat:

Good but not my kinda thing.

Conclusion:

The current Distillery was founded in 1815 by John MacDougall, close to the little town of Port Ellen on the island of Islay. In 1997 the distillery was bought by The Glenmorangie Company (part of French based Moet Hennessy) from the previous owners Allied Distillers. This company closed Ardbeg between 1981 and 1989 and only produced yearly during 2 months between 1989 and 1997. As a result, Ardbeg is lacking older stocks and is almost forced to launch Limited Editions while maintaining a very limited core range that consists of the 10 Years, Corryvreckan, An Oa, Traigh Bhan, Wee Beastie and Uigeadail. Like Glenmorangie, Ardbeg likes to experiment with Wood, Toasting and NAS expressions. In 2020 Ardbeg produced around 1,4 million liters of Alcohol.

Ardbeg Grooves was released on the occasion of Ardbeg Day 2018. Part of the Malt used to make Grooves was matured in Red Wine casks that were heavily charred resulting in heavy grooves in the surface of the wood.

People that follow my reviews on a regular basis know that I'm always in for new ways of maturing Whisky. So I will applaud Ardbeg's work and thinking in creating the Grooves. And I'm sure there will be people who will like it despite the fact that the price is very steep for such a Young Whisky. But it doesn't work for me although it's not a bad Single Malt. And I'm a big Ardbeg fan! But to me the Grooves strays too far from everything I love about Ardbeg. And why would I buy an Ardbeg that isn't an Ardbeg. Innovation is good when it adds value to the distillery character. In my opinion that's not the case here. Look forward to hear your opinion!

Cheers!

Jan van den Ende                                                                         March 31, 2021