Bowmore 17 Years Review

“The Way It Used To Be”

Country: Scotland

Region: Islay

Brand: Bowmore  

Type: Single Malt Whisky

Age: 17 Years (The "Old" Version)

ABV: 43 %

Colour: Dark Gold with shades of Orange (Artificially Coloured)

Nose: Gentle Smoke and Delicate Coastal Peat form the welcome committee. I can't hide a smile as there are no young, immature, aggressive notes to be found. It's been a while since I've nosed such a pleasant and well-balanced Single Malt. I find light Iodine, light Brine, light Ashes, Leather, Buttered Toast, Toasted Barley, Toffee, Nutella, Dried Fruit (Plums), Apple, Pineapple, Mango, light Citrus, Rum, Floral Perfume and hints of Spices and Smoked Meat and Fish. The Alcohol and Oak are completely integrated. Quite a treat! 

Palate: It's almost a crime that this Single Malt wasn't bottled at 46%. It would have made this a great Bowmore. It's still good though but just a touch on the Thin side. I find Toasted Barley, Toffee, light Iodine, light Tar, light Smoke, Wet Clay, Ashes, Salted Butter, Chocolate, Hazelnuts, Dried Fruit (Apricot, Plum), light Pepper, light Menthol, Cinnamon, Lemon, Oak, Floral Perfume and hints of Smoked Meat and Fish.

Finish: Quite Long and Warming with Cold Smoke, Ashes, Wet Clay, Toasted Barley, Toffee, Chocolate, light Citrus, Dried Fruit (Apricot), Vanilla Flavoured Pipe Tobacco, Oak, light Pepper, Nutmeg, Licorice, Menthol and fine hints of Espresso and Smoked Meat. A few Mineral notes as well. A bit Dry in the end. After a while I get some Raspberry Flavoured Candies. I must say I didn't expect that!

The "Old" 17 Years

With a couple of drops of water, you will get a bit more Plums, Tropical Fruit, Barley and Citrus on the Nose. On the Palate and in the Finish, Raspberry and Strawberry Flavoured Candies become even more noticeable. I prefer it neat but you can play with a little Water.  

Rating: 88.5 

Nose: 23 - Taste: 22 - Finish: 21.5 - Overall: 22

The 17 Years Distillers Choice Expression

General Remarks: The Bowmore Distillery was founded in 1779 by John Simpson. It's the oldest Islay distillery, located in Bowmore. Since 1994 it is completely owned by Morrison Bowmore Distilleries, part of the Japanese Suntory Group. I'm reviewing the "old" Bowmore 17 Years today. It was replaced in 2007 by the 18 Years. There was also a 17 Years Distillers Choice around but it's discontinued as well. More recently, a "new" 17 Years Travel Retail expression was released under the name "White Sands". The "old" 17 Years matured in a mix of Ex-Bourbon and Ex-Sherry casks. It's still around in some places with prices between 100 and 300 US Dollars (January 2016).

Drinking Experience Neat: Very nice. I really liked the Nose.

Conclusion: With an ABV of 46% this would have been a stunner. As it is, the Bowmore 17 years is still a very good, delicate and well-balanced Single Malt. No immature, aggressive notes are to be found. Alcohol and Oak are blended in naturally. This is the way a mature medium peated Islay Malt should be. What a pity this type of Whisky has become rare and/or unaffordable. If you find this Bowmore somewhere, just buy it. You won't regret it!

Jan van den Ende                                                               January 28, 2016

Bowmore  (Our visit in May 2014)

Glenmorangie The Duthac Review

“Saint Duthac Deserves Better”

Country: Scotland

Region: Highlands 

Brand: Glenmorangie The Duthac

Type: Single Malt Whisky

Age: NAS 

ABV: 43%

Colour: Golden Amber (Artificially Coloured)

Nose: Light and Young. The trademark Oranges are there but really in the background. I don't think many people would recognise the Duthac as a Glenmorangie in a Blind Tasting event. There's not a lot going on really. I find 
light Malt, Toast, Pastry, Dried Fruit, Nuts, light Honey, Toffee, Treacle, light Cocoa Powder, Peanut Butter, Dried Herbs, Orchard Fruit, Refill Oak, Floral Soap, Pine Needles, Cinnamon and Ginger. 

The Aromas are not very pronounced and you need lots of patience. The Duthac needs an hour or so in the glass before you start Nosing. The Alcohol is not fully integrated.    

Taste: Thin and Young. The Alcohol stings a bit. It's all rather dull with Toffee, Treacle, Brown Sugar, Cocoa Powder, Milk Chocolate, light Vanilla, light Malt, Refill Oak, Nuts, Dried Herbs, Dried Fruit, Orange Peel, light Pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg and hints of Honey, Pear Drops and Aniseed. 

Finish: Short. Sugary Sweet at first but Dry and slightly Bitter towards the end. I find Treacle, Wax, Toffee, light Vanilla, Chocolate with Nuts, light Citrus, Refill Oak, Dried Fruits, ripe Banana, Licorice, Pepper, Cinnamon and Ginger.  

Though I found many Flavour components on the Palate and in the Finish, they are not very strong and mostly mere hints.

I added a few drops of Water and on the Nose you get a bit more Barley and Vanilla. Palate and Finish become too Watery. I also find a little more Licorice in the Finish. Better sip it neat.

Rating: 81  

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 20 - Finish: 20  - Overall: 20.5

General Remarks: The Duthac was launched early last year as the first of a new Glenmorangie Series, initially only available in the Travel Retail Shops. This is the story behind the Duthac as you can find it on the Web Site of the Distillery:

"At the centre of the Royal Burgh of Tain, Ross-Shire in the far North of Scotland where the Glenmorangie Distillery has stood proudly since 1843, lies the resting place of St. Duthac. During the Middle Ages, the legends of his workings drew travellers from far and wide on pilgrimages to the ancient burgh. A Whisky fit for a king, this expression honours the annual pilgrimage made by King James IV to the shrine of St. Duthac in Tain and is part of Glenmorangie Legends, a collection of Single Malt Whiskies exclusive to Travel Retail inspired by the legendary lands that have been home to the Glenmorangie Distillery since 1843".

The spirit for the Duthac initially matured in Re-Fill ex-Bourbon casks before being married with some Whisky that matured in Ex-Sherry PX casks and some Whisky that matured in Charred Virgin Oak casks. I can't tell you exactly the percentage of each type of Whisky used. The Duthac is not really cheap at an average 80 US Dollars (January 2016). And as it does not deliver, the Price Vs. Quality ratio is not all good. 

Drinking Experience Neat: Okay/Average  

Conclusion: I'm afraid that the Duthac is another of those lifeless NAS Travel Retail expressions that flood the market. Nice packaging and story but not delivering on Aromas and Flavours. The Sherry Casks and the Virgin Oak did not get enough time to hide the fact that we are talking about a young, unfinished Spirit. If you like a young Glenmorangie, just stay with the Standard 10 years. 

Jan van den Ende                                                                January 25, 2016

Hyde 10 Years Sherry Cask Finish Review

“No Need To Hyde This Whiskey”

Country: Ireland

Brand: Hyde Batch # 1 Presidential Cask (Sherry Cask Finish) 
Type: Single Malt Irish Whiskey

Age: 10 Years

ABV: 46%
Sample provided by: Hibernia Distillers, Ireland. Many Thanks!

Colour: Golden Amber

Nose: Please give this Hyde 10 Years sufficient air contact before Nosing to enable it to release its Aromas. It doesn't smell as clean as your average Triple Distilled Irish Whiskey but also not quite as complex and balanced as your average 10-12 Year old Standard Scottish Highland Single Malt. The First Fill American Oak is quite noticeable and remind me a bit of some German, Dutch and Swiss Whiskies I have nosed over the years. The Sherry Cask influence is there but it certainly does not dominate the Spirit. On the Nose, the Hyde 10 Years is mostly Sweet and Fruity but I detect some Sour accents as well. I find assorted Fruit Candies (Peach, Nectarine, Orange, Grapes, Banana, Orchard Fruit), Heather-Honey, Floral Perfume, Grass, Yeast, Buttered Croissant, Vanilla, Wood Shavings, Varnish, light Barley, Ginger Ale and hints of Dairy, Dusty Road and Fresh Mint.

Palate: Sweet at first but a little Edgy and Bitter later on. Again, the First Fill American Oak shows its presence. The Alcohol is a bit on the Strong side as well. I find Sweet Barley, Vanilla, Toffee, Butter Biscuits, Nectarine, Apricot, Orange, Banana, Grapes, Floral (Honey) notes, Pepper, Ginger and Nutmeg.  

Finish: Middle-Long. Sweet and a little Hot at first. In the end a light Dry Bitterness pops up. I find Toasted New Oak, Toasted Grain, Ginger-Bread, Toffee, Vanilla, Orange, Nectarine, light Menthol, Licorice, Pepper, Salt and a hint of Dark Chocolate.

I added a bit of Water and on the Nose the Fruity notes are reinforced. I find some additional Sweet Red Apple. The Barley is more noticeable as well. Palate and Finish do not benefit from the added Water however.

Rating: 81.5  

Nose: 20.5 – Taste: 20 – Finish: 20.5 – Overall: 20.5

General Remarks: Hibernia Distillers Ltd was founded in March 2014 by the current managers Conor and Alan Hyde. The Head Office is located in Cork. In early 2015 they released the Hyde 10 Years Presidential Cask, paying homage to Ireland's first president Douglas Hyde (1938-1945).This Irish Single Malt was double-distilled in Copper Pot Stills, using 100% Malted Irish Barley. It matured for around 10 Years in Flame-Charred First Fill Ex-Bourbon casks before being finished for around 6 months in First Fill Ex-Oloroso casks from Southern Spain. It's a limited edition with 5000 bottles only. In the meantime Batch # 2 has been released as well. It's also a 10 Year old Single Malt Whiskey, this time with an Ex-Dark Caribbean Rum cask Finish. Both expressions are not Chill-Filtered. 

As Hibernia Distillers was only founded in early 2014, they will only be able to present their own Whiskey in 3-5 years. The Spirit used for the Hyde Batch # 1 and 2 was purchased from the Cooley Distillery. The Sherry Finishing was done by Hibernia. The Hyde 10 Years Sherry Finish is not cheap at an average 60 US Dollars (January 2016).    

Drinking Experience Neat: Good  

Conclusion: The Hyde 10 Years is an interesting Whisky without any doubt. It's certainly not as Irish as many of the Irish Whiskies I have tasted so far and it's also different from Scottish and West European Whiskies. It is a combination of all of those really. It's not a very complicated Single Malt though and Sweet Fruit Candies, Virgin Oak and Floral - and Pastry notes are the main drivers. As such I find the price a bit stiff. Still, it's a good enough first effort from a brand new company. "No Need to Hyde this Whiskey". I wish Hibernia Distillers all the best for the future and look forward to their first "own" expressions in the years to come. It's good to see Ireland exploring new Whiskey roads! 

Jan van den Ende                                                                 January 21, 2016

Arran 100° Proof Review

“To Be … Discontinued”

Country: Scotland 

Region: Highland - Islands - Arran

Brand: Arran 100° Proof

Type: Single Malt Whisky

Age: NAS (Around 8 Years)

ABV: 57%

Colour: Straw/Pale Gold (Natural Colour) 

Nose: Give this Arran sufficient air contact as the Alcohol is very strong. The first impressions are Barley, Floral Soap, Straw, Grass and Refill Oak. On the Nose the 100° is both Sweet and slightly Sour. After a while I also find Toffee, Caramel, Salted Butter, Biscuits, light Vanilla, Citrus Peel, Sour Green Apples, Apricot Jam and hints of Milk Chocolate, Nuts, Espresso and some Strawberry Yogurt. It's clear that the 100° is still a young Whisky. 

Palate: Young, quite Oily and Hot. The Alcohol is very strong. I find Caramel, Toffee, Sweet Barley, light Heather-Honey, Strawberry Jam, Floral Soap, Refill Oak, Dairy, Ginger, Pepper, Cinnamon and Citrus Peel.    

Finish: Short, Hot and slightly Sour and Bitter towards the end. I find Sweet Barley, light Vanilla, light Cocoa, Lemon Peel, Orange Juice, Pepper, Nutmeg, Salt, Refill Oak and Espresso.

I added a little Water and that helps control the Alcohol of course. The Orchard Fruit and Floral notes become more evident. On the Palate, the 100° remains slightly Hot but the Malt, Heather-Honey and Strawberry notes shine brightly. In this case I would advise you to add a little Water.   

Rating: 81

Nose: 20.5 - Taste: 20 - Finish: 20 - Overall: 20.5

General Remarks: Arran is a very young distillery and only started selling Single Malts in 1995. It is located on the Isle of Arran, off the Scottish West Coast. The 100° Proof was their first Cask Strength expression. It was launched early 2007 but has been discontinued in the meantime. It matured in Ex-Bourbon casks and was not Chill-Filtered before bottling. You can still find it in some places at the price of around 60 US Dollars (January 2017). 

Drinking Experience Neat: Average/Okay. 

Conclusion: I can't get excited about this Arran. The combination of a Young and Light Spirit with a high ABV does not work very well here and leaves the 100° slightly off-balance. This is one of the few whiskies I have had so far that I liked a bit better with some added Water. On the positive side, the Barley makes a very strong impression and in due course I would love to taste a 15 Year Old Cask Strength produced at this distillery. For the time being you are better off with the Standard 10 Years expression.  

Jan van den Ende                                                                 January 18, 2016

Auchentoshan Springwood Review

“Deadwood”

Country: Scotland

Region: Lowlands 

Brand: Auchentoshan Springwood

Type: Single Malt Whisky

Age: NAS

ABV: 40 %

Colour: Pale Straw (Artificially Coloured)

Nose: Light, Young, Waxy and Grassy. I find Cereals, Buttered Toast, Vanilla, Straw, Heather-Honey, Charred Young Oak, Peanuts, Apple Vinegar, Nail Polish Remover, Orange Peel, Fresh Herbs, Cinnamon and hints of Dairy and Cooked Vegetables. The Alcohol is quite present and reminds me of perfumed Vodka from time to time. I would guess that this Whisky matured for 5 years or a bit more. The casks haven't been very active as well. The end result is a Young and not very Interesting Spirit.

Taste: Thin, Yeasty and Bitter-Sweet. This comes very close to being Peppered Vodka. I find Vanilla, light Milk Chocolate, Buttery Cereals, Charred Young Oak, Straw, Orange Peel, very light Heather-Honey, Apple Vinegar, Nuts, Pepper, Salt, light Aniseed and Herbal Tea. 

Finish: Very Short as far as Flavours are concerned. The sharp Alcohol however remains in your throat for a bit longer. It's not easy to detect anything slightly interesting in this department. Slightly Bitter Orange - and Lemon Juice spring to mind. I also find some Buttery Cereals, Vanilla, Nuts, Charred Young Oak and a sprinkle of Pepper. Quite Dry in the end.

The Auchentoshan Springwood does not improve with added Water.

Rating: 72   

Nose: 19 - Taste: 17.5 - Finish: 17.5 - Overall: 18

General Remarks: As you will probably know, Auchentoshan (Gaelic for Corner of the Field) is triple-distilled like Irish Whiskey. The idea is to produce a smooth dram. The Springwood is part of a special range released in 2012, initially for Travel Retail only. The four main expressions of this range all relate to the big importance of Wood in the production process of Whisky. The other three are named Heartwood, Silveroak and Solera. The Springwood is the youngest of the pack and matures in American Oak Ex-Bourbon Casks. It costs around 35 US Dollars (January 2016).  

Drinking Experience Neat: Below average. Too Young, too Thin.

Conclusion: I'm not a huge fan of Auchentoshan and Triple-Distilled Whisk(e)y in general. Therefore my expectations were not very high. But this Springwood was even worse than I expected. By law it's a whisky of course but in reality it comes dangerously close to being a flavoured white Spirit like Vodka or Gin. It's quite cheap of course and given today's Whisky Market you can't expect a top class Single Malt at that price. I sometimes feel the industry uses Travel Retail as a Test Market for low priced, indifferent young Whiskies accompanied by an interesting story and attractive packaging. Exploring the borders of what is still marketable as it were. True or not, in my opinion the Auchentoshan Springwood leaves a lot to be desired. Therefore, I can't recommend it.

Jan van den Ende                                                                January 14, 2016